• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.231-242
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing how the dualism of hippie style in the modern retro-fashion, namely, the neo hippie style and the hippie chic style were expressed. For this study, domestic & foreign fashion magazines, preceding theses, literatures, an encyclopedia, and Internet sites were reviewed. The results of this study could be summarized as follows; 1. Silhouette : The neo hippie style was expressed in slim and long silhouette to show the natural beauty. The hippie chic style was expressed in various silhouettes depending on designer's tastes. 2. Color : The neo hippie style was expressed in strong color and analogous color coordination to show richness of human nature. The hippie chic style was expressed in psychedelic color, multi-color, and fluorescent color to show an unconventional and a future oriented idea. 3. Material . The neo hippie style used such soft, thin, and flexible materials as chiffon, satin, silk, knit, etc. to show the natural beauty The hippie chic style used expensive and luxurious materials, high-technological materials, harmony of different materials, etc. 4. Pattern . In the neo hippie style, it was generally used various patterns including plant, animal, insect. In the hippie chic style, it was widely used the natural pattern as well as the ethnic pattern. The neo hippie style was characterized by the natural beauty, purity, elegance as style symbolizing the social problem, on the other hand, the hippie chic style was characterized by designer's identity suggesting an idea of new style rather than a symbol of the social problem.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.43-54
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• 2011

Digital Textile Printing(DTP) is appropriate for quick response system(QRS) and is closely connected with high value added fashion industry. Fashion products of high price are mainly silk and cotton. For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. DTP for these two fiber materials is also accompanied certainly with steaming as after-treatment process for coloration. Role of steam is like water in exhaustion dyeing. Steam can diffuse dye or ink in printing paste to fiber. Quality of DTP products depend on after-treatment processes such as steaming, washing, drying. Current production amount of DTP is smaller than one of conventional textile printing. However conventional after-treatment system has been using so far. This is mismatched with DTP in terms of process efficiency, spot work of small lot, quality control. In this study, continuous after-treatment system has been suitably designed for DTP that washing and drying are available after steaming. So, It is possible to improve efficiency of DTP process. Especially, the effects of after-treatment process, such as temperature of heat drum, steaming time on printability, color difference, color fastness were examined. Two types of samples(cotton knit and silk fabrics) were used. The results were obtained as follows : First, there is no a wide difference between the K/S values of cotton and silk treated with continuous after-treatment system and those of sample treated with conventional printing after-treatment method. So it is more effective to use the continuous after-treatment system than conventional printing after-treatment system in case of the daily throughput of 1,000 yards below. Second, after continuous after-treatment for DTP, K/S values were increased and lightness($L^*$) values were decreased. ${\Delta}E$ values were below 2.3. Third, DTP samples treated with continuous after-treatment system were tested for fastness(washing, light, rubbing). Grades of fastness(washing, light, rubbing) were above 3 grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.85-96
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• 1998

This is a study on the revitalization of the fashion design studios (planning and production companies of clothing) in compliance with the request from the Small and Medium Business Administration. It's purpose is to strengthen the competence of the petty company and eventually frourish the Korean Fashion Business. The research method to conduct this study consists of two parts. First part is the research on the domestic industry mainly by questionaire, interviews and literature reviews. After making out the directory of the design studios (total of 700), 85 studios were selected for the questionaire. And by interviewing them, data with more depth was obtained. The second part is the research of the foreign cases. In the case of Japan, survey was done on the spot. However, in the case of Italy, literature review and interview with specialists were made. Also in order to higher the efficiency of the study an advisory committee and final explanatory meeting was carried into effect. This study has started first by looking into the significance and function of the fashion design studios. Then, a full scale examination was made centering around the questionarie of the present conditions of the companies. General conditions were first observed. Then the survey was done by grouping the industry by the industrial classifications such as woven, knit, leather mustang fur and fashion accesaries. The problems these companies face are that they are petty in scale and in lack of speciality, professional training, government support. Also, they are without an association or an organization that speaks for them and they face problems while doing business with others. Cases of Japan and Italy were surveyed as the example of the advanced nations. In the case of Japan, development of planning and management company, Fashion Soft House, was analyzed. Italy for instance, the function of the studios was looked into centering around the silk complex, Como, knit product complex, Capri. Also, precedent cases of brands and developing factor of the fashion industry was examined. Finally, on the basis of the result of the study, a plan to revitalize the fashion design studios was presented centering around the strategic planning, management, production, developing of talent, improvement of relationship between business acqaintance, and the support policy of the government.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.89-101
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.385-394
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to compare and analyze visual images between the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation with the various fabrics of flare skirts and to analyze the correlation between mechanical properties and visual images. The picture images (printed on paper) of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation of experimental flare skirts were shown to the evaluation group of women in their 20s majoring in clothing and textiles, and were evaluated by questionnaires with 32 adjectives. SPSS Version 12.0 statistics program was utilized to analyze data. Factor analysis, One Way ANOVA, T-test and Duncan test were used to investigate visual effect of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation. As the result of conducting factor analysis on the visual appearance, the images were driven with five factors: 'drapeability', 'attractive', 'body compensation', 'bulkiness', 'activeness'. Visual images were significantly related with mechanical properties of various fabrics, and the visual images between 3D garment simulations and real garment differed with various fabrics and their mechanical properties. Visual images of silk and polyester group, cotton, linen and wool group were significantly related with weight and thickness of kinds of fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.