• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.129-138
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• 2005

There has been a lot of debate between scholars around the folding screen painting, A Beauty under the Tree[조모입여병풍], a collection of Shosoin, Japan. Even though it is preserved in Japan, its distinguished Chinese feature made many scholars to think it might be made in China and be transmitted to Japan. However, the inspection of the material during $1973{\sim}1975$ has revealed an important fact, that is, the feather used in this screen painting belonged to Japanese bird feather. Moreover, a great amount of documents written in Tenbyo(천평승보, 8th century) period, which was thought to be used as the ground material of this painting. Therefore we can get many evidences saying that this painting was made in japan. In a basic sense, I stand on this side just because it has more evidences. However, we must be careful to make a final conclusion. Especially on the precious things like this painting screen, we must take whole considerations as possible as we can. First of all, we must consider whether Japan could have ability to make this. Second, there could be other possibility that Japanese repair the original one with their feathers or papers. In order to prove this, study on other pieces including painting screens should be done. I just suggest an objective international discussion. Lastly, I can find the common feature between the pieces of Shosoin and the ones of United Shilla, which could be influenced by same impact, the Silk road trade in a broad sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2014

This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.24
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• pp.99-116
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• 2020

This study examines the results of analyses of the lead isotope ratio and chemical composition of lead glass and green glaze from ancient Northeast Asia in order to suggest their production sites and reveal further characteristics. The comparison of the lead isotope ratio of lead glass and green glaze from two Baekje remains in Iksan-the Wanggung-ri Site and Mireuksa Temple Site-suggests that they were produced to the west of the South Gyeonggi Massif (Zone 4) using lead extracted from the same area. With a few exceptions, it has proved difficult to identify the production sites of most of the green-glazed roof tiles from Unified Silla-period Buddhist temples across Northeast Asia. The major component of the lead glass from Baekje, Silla, China, and Japan during the seventh century is PbO, SiO₂, Al₂O₃, CuO, and Fe₂O₃, with a ratio of PbO and SiO₂ of 70 and 30 wt.%, respectively. The green-glazed roof tiles excavated from a temple from the Unified Silla period have a high proportion of lead, ranging from 64 to 90 wt.%. Green-glazed lozenge tiles excavated from the Sacheonwangsa Temple site in Gyeongju were shown to contain PbO, SiO₂, Al₂O₃, and CuO, a similar composition with lead glass. An experiment was conducted to reproduce a glaze according to the production method mentioned in the Zō hotokesho sakumotsu-chō (Buddhist statue workshop crop book) in the Shosoin Repository. In this experiment, an identical ratio of PbO was observed for Japanese green-glazed ceramics from the eighth to eleventh century as that found in Chinese lead-glazed ceramics excavated from kilns operated from the seventh to tenth century in Henan. This indicates that production methods for lead glass and glaze were shared across Northeast Asia.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.3
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• pp.152-176
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• 2022

This paper, a basic study on the restoration of arrow quivers during the Three Kingdoms Period, aimed to contribute details to the existing plan to restore the arrow quivers. The arrow quivers of the Three Kingdoms Period consist of a pouch for holding arrows and a backpiece. However, the two parts do not remain, and only metal parts have been excavated. The excavated arrow quivers were classified into three types for restoration. Centered on the pouch, the quivers were classified into type 1 made up of a W-shaped part and ㄷ-shaped part, and type 2 with only the band-shaped piece identified. Type 3 is similar to type 2, but it is assumed to be a separate type where an iron band extending from the hanging piece(吊手金具) is connected to a band-shaped piece. Before proposing a restoration plan for the three types of arrow quivers, the location of the hanging piece (吊手金具) and the observation of organic matter were reflected. In addition, such details as the location of the hanging piece (吊手金具), which cannot be identified by the excavation status alone, were derived from the ways of wearing the arrow quivers observed in the Joseon Dynasty, Shosoin (正倉院), and Haniwa (埴輪) in Japan. Referring to the existing record on the transformation of arrow quivers based on the hanging piece (吊手金具), the arrow quivers change from type 1 to types 2 and 3 in this paper. However, some of types 2 and 3 maintain the ways of wearing of type 1, and there were cases where the old-fashioned parts were kept. In particular, in Haman (咸安), it was confirmed that the typical type 1 was buried up until late periods.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.40
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• pp.243-270
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• 2007

Linked pearls pattern expressed on textiles have no limited scale or shape when manufacturing, so they are free in expression. And from the design, material, and color we can analogize the social culture of that age. Oriental linked pearls pattern was started from the Sasanian Persia and introduced through the Silk Road, so it is closely connected with the East and the West culture. This study will consider from the 5th century to the 10th century; the mural costume of the West Central Asia, the ancient textiles excavated from the Sinjiang and Qinghai area of China, and the linked pearls pattern which are collected at Shosoin, Japan. And from this study, will concentrate on clarifying the linked pearls pattern's condition of the cultural exchange between the East and the West and it's structural variation process. The design of linked pearls pattern delivered to the East through the Silk Road is differed by area. For example, in the Western Pamir Plateau, where the ancient Sogdians mainly lived, the excavated linked pearls pattern's subject were deer or cassowary variated from the West Asian motif. But the ones excavated from Kucha Xingang had Chinese motifs added so they showed Chinese characters or Buddhist Bodhisattva image instead of Helios. Like this, the appearance of new patterns, which were accompanied by structural variations, gradually deviated from the standardized pattern of the Sasanian Persia. And this structural variation process has relations with the construction and arrangement method of various patterns of the after ages. The foliated floral Spray, which is placed at the lozenge space of linked pearls' space, had developed into ogival - shaped pattern (Neunghwamun). And the prevalence of geometrical structure pattern after the 10th century and the unfolding method of Tapjamun which is arranging unit pattern in order, are similar to the linked pearl pattern. In brief, linked pearls pattern accompanied by technical improvement let us understand the polished artistic code from its expression, and has importance in showing universal pattern beyond region and culture.