• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.545-558
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• 2021

This research analyzed the Chinese style design embodied in the collections of the new generation of fashion designers shown during the Shanghai Fashion Week to improve the understanding of Chinese style and the modernization of Chinese design. The research questions were 1) studying the development of the Chinese fashion industry chronologically and investing young designers' current situation, 2) investigating young designers' awareness of Chinese style and analyzing Chinese style design in collections. A literature and case study were conducted as the research method. The literature study focused on the books about the Chinese fashion industry and history, newspaper, articles, and so on. The case study was conducted among 63 Chinese style collections in 2016-2020 SFW by investigating fashion magazine reviews, articles, and so on. The findings are as follows: 1) Young Chinese fashion designers' awareness of Chinese style has three characteristics; the nonmaterial tendency from decreasing stereotyped images, combination of traditional culture and local youth culture, and commercialization with trends. 2) Chinese elements, including natural, character, and cultural elements were predominantly used in the concept, pattern, and shape. Nonmaterial characteristics were identified in concept, cultural combination characteristics in concept, shape, color, material, and pattern, and trend commercialization in shape, color, and pattern. In conclusion, Chinese young fashion designers had strong national consciousness and new awareness of Chinese style fashion in decreasing the stereotyped images of China. Thus, they used more varied expressions. Meanwhile, they faced difficulties in expressing nonmaterial Chinese elements by balancing them with Chinese style and globalization.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.36-50
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• 2021

In the COVID-19 era, globally, companies in the fashion industry are pursuing new convergence methods through digital technology. Conventional fashion shows have become difficult to run exclusively, instead, the shows are run through a combination of offline and digital arrangements. This paper examines the trends of seven digital fashion show weeks in London, Paris, Milan, New York, Seoul, Shanghai, and Tokyo, and presents strategies applicable in Korea's Seoul Digital Fashion Week. We focused on the digital technology used in the digital fashion weeks fashion brands, and the characteristics of the host cities. The study conducted a literature review and case study through corporate and research report data, and the Fashion Week website. Based on the study results, changes in fashion industry calendars like 'See now, Buy now', seasonless, and unified collections for men and women, expansion of D2C system, the rise of short-form contents, and the expansion to the virtual world space and physical limitations can be cited as changed trends. The study provides insight into the incorporation of the Korean Wave and K-Pop singers, industrial structure change, and the establishment of B2B system in the Seoul digital fashion week. The shift to the digital runway is not only an alternative method to cope with the COVID-19 era but also a new "new normal". Fashion shows are no longer fixed and planned in free spaces. As a venue displaying the creator's personality, digital fashion week is expected advance in the future.