• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.20 no.A
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• pp.139-148
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• 2000

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves, and depth averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave. The numerical model is correctly formulated by using both the finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction and the explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference scheme, also satisfactorily verified by comparison with the other results. The behaviors of reflected and transmitted waves with respect to geometric parameters of submerged breakwater such as the slope, crest depth, and crest width are numerically analyzed in this study. In particular, the reflection and transmission coefficients are quantitatively calculated as the function of geometric parameter of submerged breakwater. It is found that the crest depth among parameters related to practical design may be the most important parameter in designing the submerged breakwater. Therefore, the effective and economic performances of submerged breakwater should be depended on the determination of optimal crest depth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.89-97
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• 2009

In this study, a two-dimensional unstructured finite volume model based on the shallow-water equations and well-balanced HLLC scheme is developed. The model is verified by applying to various one- and two-dimensional problems related to the analyses of dam-break wave. The predicted numerical results agree very well with available analytical solutions and laboratory measurements. The model provides slightly more accurate results compared with the existing models.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.364-376
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• 2019

When underwater blasting is conducted, both shock waves and water waves have an effect on adjacent coastal areas. In this study, an empirical formula for estimating the details of water waves caused by underwater blasting was applied to a non-reflected wave generation system, and a 3D numerical wave tank (NWT) was improved to reproduce the generation and propagation of such water waves. The maximum elevations of the propagated water waves were comparatively analyzed to determine the validity and effectiveness of the NWT. Good agreement was demonstrated between the empirical and simulation results. The generation and propagation of water waves were also simulated under each underwater blasting scenario for the removal of the Todo islet at the Busan Newport International Terminal (PNIT). It was determined that the water waves generated by the underwater blasting scenario examined in this study did not have a significant impact on the PNIT. In addition, multiple-charge blasting caused higher wave heights than single-charge blasting. As the amount of firing charge increased, the wave height also increased. Finally, larger water waves were generated during the later blasting conducted at a deeper depth as compared with an earlier blasting conducted at a relatively shallow depth.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.449-457
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• 1998

Using a numerical model solving the shallow-water equations, unusual huge run-up heights observed in the lees of both Babi and Okushiri islands were investigated in detail. The effects of incident tsunami widths were particularly examined by adjusting the transverse length of the wave-maker in laboratory and numerical experiments. The calculated run-up heights were compared with the laboratory experimental data. It has been found that the run-up heights in the lee of a conical island are strongly dependent on the ratio of a transverse length of incident tsuanmis to a base diameter of the island. Keywords : shallow-water equations, tsunami, run-up height, conical island.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.479-484
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• 2007

For calculation of wave field for design of coastal and port structures, generally the wind fields from inland observation record or the predicted waves from deep water wave transformation model are being used. However, for the first case, as we should revise the wave data adopting correcting parameters depending on the distance from the coast and location, it is difficult to extract water waves from wind field. Furthermore, for the second case, because of the calculation which executed under very large grid sizes in the wide domain, the simulation(wave transformation) implied uncertainty in the near shore area and shallow region. So it's difficult to obtain exact data from the simulation. Thus, in this study the calculation of wave field on shallow water is accomplished using the observed data of typhoon 'Maemi' in the Korea Eastern South sea. Moreover, for the accuracy of the calculated wave field, we compared and studied the observed data of wave height and direction on the vicinity of the Ulsan waters. It is proved that the results of this study is more accurate than the existing method with showing ${\pm}1.3%$ difference between observed and calculated wave height distribution in Ulsan waters

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-75
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• 1986

This paper introduces the nonlinear Stream Function Wave Theory for design waves efficiently to compute the wave energy and energy transport quantities and to analyze the effects of nonlinearities on them. The Stream Function Wave Theory was developed by Dean for case of the observed waves with assymmetric wave profiles and of the design waves with symmetric theoretical wave profiles. Dalrymple later improved the computational procedure by adding two Lagrangian constraints so that more efficient convergence of the iterative numerical method to a specified wave height and to a zero mean free surface displacement resulted. And the Stream Function coefficients are computed numerically by the improved Marquardt algorithm developed for this study. As the result of this study the effects of nonlinearities on the wave quantities of the average potential energy density, the average kinetic energy density result in overestimation by linear wave theory compared to the Stream Function Wave Theory and increase monotonically with decreasing $L^*/L_O$ and with increasing $H/H_B$. The effects of nonlinearities on the group velocity and the wavelength quantities result in underestimation by linear wave theory and increase monotonically with increasing $H/H_B$. Finally the effect of nonlinearity on the average total energy flux results in overestimation for shallow water waves and underestimation for deep water waves by linear wave theory.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.22 no.3E
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• pp.133-140
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• 2003

A time series simulation is presented by a ray approach for the simulating the received waveform of a broadband acoustical signals interacting with the ocean boundaries. The environment is assumed to be horizontally stratified, and the seafloor is described in terms of homogeneous fluid half-space. The ray approach includes the effects of reflection from the air-water, water-sediment interface and phase shifts due to boundaries interaction. To generate time series, we assume that the acoustic energy propagates from source to receiver along eigenrays and represent the action of the bottom on the incident wave by a linear filter and characterized in the frequency domain by the transfer function. As example application, the time series for an explosive source in a shallow water environment is calculated and analyzed in terms of acoustical process. good agreement with measured time series is demonstrated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.171-177
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• 2004

A new wave gauge using digital image of waves is developed and the performances are tested by wave tank experiments. This wave gauge uses frame frequency of 1/15 sec, conversion of analog images to digital images, and large capacity of hard disk. This wave gauge measures wave heights by detecting the buoy movement automatically from the image, where the buoy moves with the same phase of water surface. The comparison of automatic measurements of wave heights to the true data is reasonable. The wave gauge can be improved to measure wave heights on shallow waters near shorelines.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.5 s.121
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• pp.339-344
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• 2007

Shipwaves can cause beach erosion, seawall destruction and difficulty of cargo working due to rolling of ship. In addition, high speed operation of motor boat and passenger ship jeopardize sea bathers and anglers' safety. This study aims to investigate the characteristics of shipwaves which occurred and propagated in shallow water experimentally and theoretically. Shipwaves which occurred and propagated in shallow water depth represent large wave height increase.

• Korean Journal of Mathematics
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.11-27
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• 2015

Nonlinear partial differential equations are more suitable to model many physical phenomena in science and engineering. In this paper, we consider three nonlinear partial differential equations such as Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation which serves as a model for the unidirectional propagation of the shallow water waves over a at bottom. The main objective in this paper is to apply the generalized Riccati equation mapping method for obtaining more exact traveling wave solutions of Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation. More precisely, the obtained solutions are expressed in terms of the hyperbolic, the trigonometric and the rational functional form. Solutions obtained are potentially significant for the explanation of better insight of physical aspects of the considered nonlinear physical models.