• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow water wave

검색결과 270건 처리시간 0.027초

불투수성 급경사면 위의 파랑상호작용에 관한 수치모델 및 실험 (Measurement and Numerical Model for Wave Interation on Impermeable Steep Slopes)

  • 김인철;안익성
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제22권5호
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    • pp.44-51
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    • 2008
  • The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

Sea State Hindcast for the Korean Seas With a Spectral Wave Model and Validation with Buoy Observation During January 1997

  • Kumar, B. Prasad;Rao, A.D.;Kim, Tae-Hee;Nam, Jae-Cheol;Hong, Chang-Su;Pang, Ig-Chan
    • 한국지구과학회지
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    • 제24권1호
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    • pp.7-21
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    • 2003
  • The state-of-art third generation wave prediction model WAM was applied to the Korean seas for a winter monsoon period of January 1997. The wind field used in the present study is the global NSCAT-ERS/NCEP blended winds, which was further interpolated using a bi-cubic spline interpolator to fine grid limited area shallow water regime surrounding the Korean seas. To evaluate and investigate the accuracy of WAM, the hindcasted wave heights are compared with observed data from two shallow water buoys off Chil-Bal and Duk-Juk. A detailed study has been carried with the various meteorological parameters in observed buoy data and its inter-dependency on model computed wave fields was also investigated. The RMS error between the observation and model computed wave heights results to 0.489 for Chil-Bal and 0.417 for Duk-Juk. A similar comparison between the observation and interpolated winds off Duk-Juk show RMS error of 2.28 which suggest a good estimate for wave modelling studies.

The effect of small forward speed on prediction of wave loads in restricted water depth

  • Guha, Amitava;Falzarano, Jeffrey
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • 제6권4호
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    • pp.305-324
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    • 2016
  • Wave load prediction at zero forward speed using finite depth Green function is a well-established method regularly used in the offshore and marine industry. The forward speed approximation in deep water condition, although with limitations, is also found to be quite useful for engineering applications. However, analysis of vessels with forward speed in finite water depth still requires efficient computing methods. In this paper, a method for analysis of wave induced forces and corresponding motion on freely floating three-dimensional bodies with low to moderate forward speed is presented. A finite depth Green function is developed and incorporated in a 3D frequency domain potential flow based tool to allow consideration of finite (or shallow) water depth conditions. First order forces and moments and mean second order forces and moments in six degree of freedom are obtained. The effect of hull flare angle in predicting added resistance is incorporated. This implementation provides the unique capability of predicting added resistance in finite water depth with flare angle effect using a Green function approach. The results are validated using a half immersed sphere and S-175 ship. Finally, the effect of finite depth on a tanker with forward speed is presented.

Wave Field Near a Vessel in Restricted Waterway

  • Kim, Chang-Je
    • 한국항해항만학회지
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    • 제35권7호
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    • pp.557-562
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    • 2011
  • Shipwaves can have harmful effects on people who are using riverside and cause bank erosion, bank structures destruction in restricted waterways. The wave field near a vessel is consisted of a combination of a primary and secondary wave system in a shallow or restricted waterway. The water level depression(squat) and return current beside the hull are called the primary wave system. The secondary wave system, that is the wave height originates from a local disturbance point such as the bow of the ship. This study aims at investigating the characteristics of the wave field around a vessel in a restricted water in relation to navigation experimentally and theoretically. The return current and squat with a correction factor can be newly evaluated and the almost same high-sized wave heights take place on the whole waterway in a restricted water without regard to the distance from the sailing line.

연안객선(沿岸客船)에 있어서 대형구상선수(大型球狀船首)가 조파저항감소(造波抵抗減少)에 미치는 영향(影響)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) (An Experimental Study on the Wave-Cancelling Effects of Large Bulbous Bow on the Passenger Coaster)

  • 김재근
    • 대한조선학회지
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    • 제4권1호
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    • pp.1-34
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    • 1967
  • The wave-cancelling effects of a large bulbous bow on the coastal passenger boat have been investigated in deep and shallow water. The following characteristics have been cleared through resistance tests with the model of the Korea standard type coastal passenger vessel(LWL=25.8m, B=5.5m, T=1.65m) equipped with large bulbous bows of various sizes. (1) Over the range of Froude Number 0.30, the wavemaking resistance coefficients decrease 30% or more. (2) The optimum location of bulb center is around 8% L from F.P. (3) On the 120 G.T. passenger coaster which has a speed corresponding to Froude Number 0.34, the most advantageous bulb is the one whose $a_0/L$ is about 0.28. When the speed is up, the bulb radius should be increased accordingly. (4) The large bulbous bows are effective in shallow water to a water depth of H/T=2.0. (5) Tendency to the increase in the resistance of the hull with large bulbous bow in the shallow water is generally smaller than that of the hull without bulb.

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독도 인근해역에서의 천해파 (Shallow Water Waves around Tokdo)

  • 황연호;전인식;오병철;심재설
    • 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국해양공학회 2001년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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    • pp.117-121
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    • 2001
  • For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

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천해에 적용가능한 태풍 해일-조석-파랑 수치모델 개발 1. 해수유동 모델의 정확성 검토 (Development of the Combined Typhoon Surge-Tide-Wave Numerical Model Applicable to Shallow Water 1. Validation of the Hydrodynamic Part of the Model)

  • 천제호;안경모;윤종태
    • 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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    • 제21권1호
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    • pp.63-78
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    • 2009
  • 본 논문에서는 천해에 적용 가능한 동적결합형 태풍 해일-조석-파랑 수치모델의 개발과 개발된 모델의 정확성을 검증하였다. 태풍 해일과 조석 수치모델은 POM (Princeton Ocean Model)을 기반으로 하였으며, 풍파 파랑 수치모델은 WAM (Wave Model)을 기반으로 천해에 적용할 수 있도록 수정하여 두 모델을 동적으로 결합하였다. 연속된 두 개의 논문 중에 첫 번째 논문인 본 논문에서는 해일과 조석을 수치 모의하는 해수유동 부분의 수치모의의 안정성과 정확성을 검증하였다. 수치모의의 안정성과 정확성 향상을 위하여 기존의 POM 모델의 난류 수치모델 부분과 연직속도 계산 알고리즘을 수정 보완하였다. 수정된 POM 모델의 정확성과 수치적 안정성 검증을 위하여 해석해와 실 해역에서 측정된 관측결과와 비교하였으며, 수정된 POM 모델이 기존의 POM 모델보다 수치계산의 안정성과 정확성이 개선되었음을 확인할 수 있었다.

수리실험 및 수치모의를 이용한 제방붕괴 흐름해석 (Levee Breach Flow by Experiment and Numerical Simulation)

  • 김주영;이정규;이진우;조용식
    • 한국수자원학회논문집
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    • 제44권6호
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    • pp.461-470
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    • 2011
  • Abrupt and gradual levee breach analyses on the flat domain were implemented by laboratory experiments and numerical simulations. To avoid the reflective wave from the side wall the experiment was performed in a large domain surrounded by waterway. A numerical model was developed for solving the two-dimensional gradual levee breach flow. The results of the numerical simulation developed in this study showed good agreement with those of the experimental data. However, even if the numerical schemes effectively replicated the trends of the observed water depth for the first shock, there were little differences for the second shock. In addition, even though the model considered the Smagorinsky horizontal eddy viscosity, the location and height of the hydraulic jump in the numerical simulation were not fairly well agree with experimental measurements. This shows the shallow water equation solver has a limitation which does not exactly reproduce the energy dissipation from the hydraulic jump. Further study might be required, considering the energy dissipation due to the hydraulic jump or transition flow from reflective wave.

천해역 비선형분산파랑 모델의 평가를 위한 수리 실험 연구 (Experimental Study for Evaluation of Non-Linear Dispersive Wave Model in Shallow Water)

  • 이중우;신승호
    • 한국해안해양공학회지
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    • 제11권4호
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    • pp.189-196
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    • 1999
  • 천해역에서 외해의 구조물 주위에서의 파동계산을 위한 수치모델을 검증하기 위해서는 실험실에서의 수리실험이 필요하다 하겠다. 본 연구에서는 경사해저면을 가진 해역에서 구조물 설치로 인한 파랑장과 이론 인한 흐름장에 대한 수리실험 예를 다룬다. 수역은 수직으로 층별 흐름을 관측하기 위한 추적 플로터를 투입하도록 4개층으로 나눈다. 자료의 측정은 제한된 수의 파고계와 실험실 상단에 설치한 비디오 카메라와 함께 추적 플로터를 사용하여 연속적으로 이루어졌다. 특정영역에서의 파고 및 각 층별 시간평균유속 분포를 상세히 측정하였으며, 측정된 모든 실험실 자료로부터 파랑 및 흐름장 분포를 상세히 분석하였다. 또한, 파랑의 비선형적 변형특성을 상하 및 전후 비대칭성의 관점에서 포괄적인 분석도 기하였다.

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Field Measurements of Wave Directionality in Water of Finite Depth

  • Memos, Constantine;Ziros, Athanassios
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • 제25권4호
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    • pp.437-446
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    • 2003
  • Field measurements of directional waves were carried out during the summer of 2002 at two coastal sites in water of finite depth. A couple of general purpose instruments were used employing acoustic Doppler technology. The aim of the study was to investigate the spatial behavior of the directional movement of waves as they come ashore. In total,74 tests were carried out during which sea states of low to moderate intensity were recorded. A great number of these runs displayed bimodal characteristics of the spreading function at high frequencies. It was found that in general, the frequency-integrated directional width tends to broaden as the water shoals and when refraction effects are negligible. This is attributed to wave-wave interactions that become pronounced in shallow water. The same directional width showed, also, a tendency to increase with increasing peak frequency of the sea state spectrum. The behavior of the kurtosis of the spreading function was also examined. It was found that for higher frequencies this index tends to increase in wave spectra above a certain sea severity threshold.