• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper examined the garment formability and appearance of perspiration absorption, fast dry, and breathable fabrics. The mechanical properties and seam pucker properties of these fabrics were measured and regression analysis was conducted between fabric structural parameters and their mechanical and seam pucker properties. The superior total appearance value (TAV) of fast dry knitted fabrics for sports-wear was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and bending rigidity; consequently, it increased with increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The formability of the fast dry knitted fabric also improved with an increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The seam pucker was influenced by bending rigidity and a good seam pucker was exhibited in the fast dry knitted fabrics with low stitch density and tightness factor. However, the formability (F) of the breathable fabric improved by increasing extensibility and bending rigidity that decreased with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric. In addition, seam pucker deteriorated with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric, which was similar to the results of the formability predicted in fabric mechanical properties. A superior seam pucker was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and low bending rigidity.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.71-76
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• 2003

We evaluated the seam characteristics with finishing, seaming and sealing processes and seam Puckering behavior of the breathable waterproof fabrics with laser scan. There were differences in 99% significant level between the seamed fabric and the sealed fabric. Seam breakage was initiated with the breakage of sewing thread, so the seam strength after seaming was almost uniform. The sewn seam strength and elongation increased with sealing process in all finishing methods. Pucker grade of laminating type was generally much higher than that of the coating type. We confirmed that wave length and amplitude have more important meaning than the number of weave in the breathable waterproof fabrics. The puckering in breathable waterproof fabrics is mainly occurred by inherent and feeding pucker. The former if due to the insertion of sewing thread and the littler is caused by differential feeding when two pieces of fabric are fed into the gap between a press foot and needle plate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.46-55
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• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2001.04b
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• pp.265-269
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• 2001

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1995.10a
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• pp.41-42
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• 1995

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

This paper concerns with the relationship between the visual perception of the degree of pucker or wrinkles of garment surfaces and the geometrical parameters of surfaces. In this study, four potentially relevant parameters of the surface profile are considered, namely, the variance ($\sigma$$^2$), the cutting frequency (F$\_$c/), the effective disparity curvature (D$\_$ce/) (Defined as the average disparity curvature of the wrinkled surface over the eyeball distance of the observer) and the frequency component of the disparity curvature ( D$\_$cf/). Based on the experiments using garment seams having varying degree of pucker (i.e. the wrinkles along a seam line), it was found that, while the logarithm of each of these four parameters has a strong linear relationship with the visually perceived degree of wrinkles, following the Web-Fetchner Law, the effective disparity curvature ( D$\_$ce/) and the frequency component of the disparity curvature (D$\_$cf/) appeared to have stronger relationships with the visual perception. This finding is in agreement with the suggestion by Rogers '||'&'||' Cagenello that human visual system may compute the disparity curvature in discriminating curved surfaces. It also suggested an objective method of measuring the degree of surface wrinkles.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.402-403
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• 2003

Garment manufacture represents the final stage of processing a finished fabric. The main task of the garment manufacturer is to produce shell structures out of flat fabrics to match the shape of the human body, and the most acceptable means of joining textile materials for apparel use is by sewing. On the sewing process, the bottom layer is pushed forward by the feed-dog, but the presser foot tends to retard the passage of the top layer. Since the friction between the layers is low, is possible that the components will move out of phase and pucker. (omitted)

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.20-24
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• 2001

The primary objective of this study was to empirically explore the mechanical properties of marketing Korean fabrics by using KES-FB system and estimate the sewability of Korean clothes by the mechanical properties. From the empirical research, it was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has been transformed easier and less flexible by shearing Korean fabrics for autumn and winter. Also, it was found that there is a significant difference in the hand value as tensile, surface and compression. It was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has a stiffness and elastic properties of matter and Korean fabrics for autumn and winter has a bulky and abundant elasticity. Finally, it was found that Korean fabrics for autumn and summer in the joint of account of the mechanical properties. Also, the difficulties of process has been expected by sewability like seam-pucker, over feed, sewing and steam-press.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.227-235
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• 1978

This study was designed to find out consumer's interest in garments label and to help home economists make interest for the further study in relation between producers and consumers as gap bridger. The questionnair method was used to obtained the data which was made by a result of self-administered questionnair. A size of random sample for this research was 364 subjects. The study found the following: (1) Most of consumers are relatively interested in garments label. The most concious age level was woman of fourty. (2) The most interest factor was label of size, price, fiber contents. brand name, directions and precautions on proper use and care. (3) The order of complaining item after washing was change of size, and color, seam pucker. deformation of collar. and button. (4) Most of consumers do not follow the direction when they clean their garments. (5) The respondents seem to be not understand the garment's informative label.