• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.418-424
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.453-459
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic knowledge to determine the proper seam finish according to the design of sewing products. Four seam finishes(no seam finishes, over-edged seam finishes, turned-and-stitched seam finishes, and bias-bound seam finishes) were constructed with seams in warp, weft and bias directions of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18cm diameter supporting disks and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Drape coefficients of the fabrics increased with seam formation and varied by the seam finishes, however no significant differences in drape coefficients by the seam finishes were observed on the heavier fabric. Node numbers of heavier fabric were more deeply affected by the seam finishes than those of lighter fabric. The specimens with turned-and-stitched seam finishes and bias-bound seam finishes showed significantly smaller node numbers compared to the specimens with no seam finishes and over-edged seam finishes on heavier fabric. The length of the seamed part showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens and negative correlation with the number of nodes in each seam direction. The maximum length of all draped specimens was found in the same direction as the seam direction. In the case of the lighter fabric, the seam and the seam finish had a great influence on the shape of the draped profile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.998-1006
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• 1999

This study has investigated the relation between the sewing speed and seam breaking strength applied perpendicular to the seam direction. Breaking strength efficiency breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of sewing threads and four kinds of fabrics. The results obtained are as follows : 1. According to the increase in sewing speed seam strength was remarkably decreased. Seam strength and its loss difference were shown variously as threads and fabrics were mixed. 2. In case of fabrics with higher strength seam strength showed higher. And the seam strength was determined by the loop strength. 3. In case of fabrics with lower strength seam strength and its difference for every sample showed lower. So the strength of fabrics dominated the seam strength than those of threads. 4. In the experiment using various fabrics and sewing threads there was a type of thread appropriate to each fabric. Fabrics and threads with have similar physical properties were shown proper seam efficiency. 5. The breaking mode was different for every sample seam that was tested.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.57-72
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• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.

• Journal of Welding and Joining
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.133-144
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• 1999

To fine seam annealer capacity of through thickness seam annealing in terms of through thickness microstructure change with increased toughness and elongation leaving heat trace on it, high strength steel pipes of ERW with different thickness were tested in different seam annealing temperature measured on the outer surface of pipes. Annealing temperature and microstructure of the weld seam were changed through applied seam annealing condition. Toughness and tensile test with hardness and microstructure analysis were done on the annealed weld seam to fine its characteristics as a primary step and annealing characteristics according to different seam annealing condition. Through a study of annealed ERW weld seam characteristics and seam annealing technology, amount of electric power should apply in decreased manner to arranged inductors of annealer in the order of 1st, 2nd, 3rd, so on for proper seam annealing. For example of 15.4mm thick and 610mm outside diameter pipe, applied power for proper seam annealing is 600 -650kw at 1st inductor, 450 - 500kw at 2nd inductor, 200-250 kw at 3rd inductor of annealer during 10 - 12M/minute moving speed of pipe. Also, the penetration depth of heat trace along the thickness direction of weld during seam annealing can be estimated through the equation 17mm/kv$\times$voltage(kv) with the microstructure and hardness analysis of thick weld seam as well as study of seam annealing and comparison of cooling condition to CCT diagram of low carbon high strength steel. From this result, the difference between the technological applicability of full annealing condition based on phase diagram and full penetration of heat trace based on CCT diagram along the thickness of weld seam is discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.433-438
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• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.57-64
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• 2013

As the clothing materials have been more functional and advanced, the cotton fabrics for dress shirts or blouses have been more qualified and the sewability for high degree of completion has been required. This study aims to identify the seam strength depending on the change of stitch density of fine cotton fabrics by fabric and thread and so the general seam performance of fine cotton fabrics by analyzing the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams. For an experiment, 3 kinds of fine cotton fabrics and 2 kinds of threads were selected and the sample was made by changing the stitch density by four steps. Then, the seam strength was measured. Next, the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams were analyzed on the basis of the results of seam strength measurement. The results are as follows: All fabrics showed the similar tendency in seam strength. The seam strength is related to the tensile strength and thread strength, it increased only to a certain stitch density. When the stitch density exceeded a certain level, fabrics were destroyed or threads were cut. Then, the seam strength didn't increase. Furthermore, the more the seam strength increased, the more the seam efficiency increased. For increasing the maximum stitch density, it was required to use the fabrics and threads which had similar properties, in other words, the high thread strength for the high tensile strength and the low thread strength for the high tensile strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.66-77
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• 1999

For this study It was measured the seam puckering based on the mechanical properties of tencel under the proper condition of needlework and machine sewing analyzed the mechanical properties which re influenced to the seam puckering and estimated the seam puckering based on the mechanical properties. The results of this study are as follows : There are three types of the seam puckering for each step which is caused by repeated washing and press. Concerning the seam puckering with the number of washing the more the number of washing is increased the less the seam puckering is decreased. Concerning the mecanical properties of the sample with the seam puckering. The seam puckering is related to LT positively B, 2HB, T, W negatively Among the mechanical properties LT, B, 2HB, T, W are most influenced to the seam puckering. Judging from the result of estimating seam puckering based on mechanical properties the estimate-formula is satisfied in this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.25-30
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• 2001

In order to investigate the influence of thread tension on the structure of lockstitch seam, stitch tightness and seam balance ratio are measured at various tensions of needle thread and bobbin thread. The structure of lockstitch was shown in terms of skeleton stitch models to obtain quantitative analysis of stitch tightness. The balanced seam formed to the rectangu1ar stitch model under low bobbin thread tension, but the fabric tightness produced by interlaced needle and bobbin thread under high bobbin thread tension. In this paper, new equation to obtain seam balance ratio was proposed for a lockstitch seam. By using the new equation, the seam balance ratio was not affected by the stitch density and fabric thickness. In order to form the balanced seam, the ratio on tension of needle thread and bobbin thread was about 6:1~7:1 in this experiment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.350-357
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• 2001

In this study, seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency of polyurethane coated fabrics were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabrics, four kinds of sewing threads and three kinds of stitch lengths. And the sewability of polyurethane coated fabrics were evaluated by FAST system. The results were as follows: 1. Seam strength decreased with the increase of stitch length. The loop strength of sewing thread and the type of base fabric than the type of coated surface had an effect on seam strength. 2. Seam elongation also decreased with the increase of stitch length and was affected by the type of base fabric. The tensile elongation of polyurethans coated fabric had an effect on seam elongation. 3. Sean efficiency also was related to stitch length, the type of base fabric, and seam strength. The suitable seam efficiency was within 50%∼65% in which polyurethane coated fabric and sewing thread broke at the same time. Therefore PS thin and PPC thin sewing threads and 3mm stitch length were suitable to polyurethane coated fabrics. 4. The relaxation shrinkage(RS) of polyurethane coated fabric was smaller than the smallest value of control chart in FAST system. And the extensibility(E) and the shear rigidity(G) were larger than the largest value.