• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.169-176
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• 2004

The clouds-shaped pattern is originated from Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism. It stands for good-luck, longevity and productivity. It has been used on its own or with other patterns since the ancient times. It also has various forms. It particularly was used more frequently than any other patterns as a typical good-luck pattern, representing auspiciousness, divine authority, and so on in Chosun dynasty. The pattern, according to its component parts, is classified as individual type and compound type, which is mixed with other patterns such as treasure pattern, plant pattern, letter pattern, or animal pattern. For both individual type and compound type, swastika-shaped cloud pattern was mostly used. For compound type, the pattern compounded of treasure pattern was extraordinarily used a lot. In terms of the arrangement, the most common arrangement methods were brick-shaped arrangement and dense type arrangement, the arrangement method that spreads the patterns all over the surface. Among the fabrics with clouds-shaped pattern, satin damask fabrics had the majority. Clouds-shaped pattern was used a lot in men's Po(coat), such as Dahnryoung, Jiknyoung, Chollik, etc. rather than in women's clothes. It was a typical pattern used in Dahnryoung, an official uniform that represented people in the highest class in Chosun dynasty. The divine power symbol of this pattern indicated the authority and dignity that the upper class people could have.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Railway
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 2013

In this study, the natural frequency and damping ratio of a four-harness satin woven glass/epoxy composite material are evaluated by means of modal tests and a finite element analysis. To achieve this goal, glass/epoxy beam specimens with different lengths and thicknesses were manufactured via autoclave curing. In the test, the maximum damping ratio was found to occur at the lowest test frequency. As the test frequency increased, the damping ratio decreased exponentially to a critical value. After that value, the damping ratio increased gradually to the maximum test frequency.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.459-471
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• 1974

This study was carried out on the thermal transmission on account of variation of weaves and researched on the selection of the most suitable weaves for warmth. Also the interrelation among the density, thickness and thermal transmission by different weaves was studied, the author has woven three fundamental weaves, five weaves derived from the fundamental weaves and two special weaves for the purpose of experiment. In weaving of fabrics for experiments the lever type hand loom was used. Testing of texture was carried out according to KS and ASTM. The thermal transmission was also tested by as cooling method which were developed by the author. The conclusions of experiments were as follows. 1. Matt weaves, honey comb weaves and satin weaves having long floating yarns have large cover factor and were thicker. these structures of the weaves were good in warmth. 2. Thermal transmission was reciprocated to the cover factor, thickness and value of cover factor multiplied by thickness : It was found that the weaves of woven fabrics for warmth had better use of satin weaves, Matt weaves, Granite weaves and Honey comb weaves. In the time of warmth is not the first purpose, had better use of Rib weaves. Plain weaves and Twill weaves with thin thickness and high thermal transmission.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.141-153
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• 2014

Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.465-469
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• 2003

The present study revealed; that (1) The students majoring in a piano course were the preference type of the performance dress - best line was designed of upper form chest. It was 1.5cm shorter than armhole line, the princess line was preferred Top one piece without sleeves which was designed with slim by bottom line through west dart form best line. The expression method was showing embroidery and bidding, colors were in order to white, ivory, black and blue style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning, silk satin and race style. (2) The students majoring in a vocal music were the preference type of the performance dress - the princess line was designed shorter, the west line of back and forth was preferred the one piece of bulk style divided with three partitions. Neck line was 5cm shorter than the middle of back, 9cm shorter than the side neck position, 9cm shorter than the middle of forth, sweet heart neck line with circular sleeve designed 7cm shorter than the side neck position. Colors were in order to ivory, red and yellow style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning silk satin and race style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.15-19
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to determine the thermal characteristics of men's suits ensembles and their fabrics. For the study, 100% wool fabrics were woven with various fabric structure, fabric density and yam count and With the use of these, 12 men's suits were made with the same design. Physical characteristics that affect thermal transport properties, including drapery, cover factor; bulk density, keeping warmth ratio, vapor permeability, air permeability and porosity of the fabrics were measured. In addition, thermal resistance of men's suit ensembles, including Y-shirts, inner wear and socks was measured on the thermal manikin in the environmental chamber. The result of the study was as follows: 1. In terms of fabric structure, keeping warmth ratio of plain woven fabrics was higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics and also, vapor and air permeability and porosity of plain woven fabrics were higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics. 2. The result showed that thermal resistance of 12 ensembles were in the range of 0.77clo~0.97clo. 3. There was little correlation between woven condition such as, including structure, fabric density and yam count and thermal resistance of ensembles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.124-131
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• 2001

To find out the effect of burn out print finishing for better quality of fabric, examined processing which could make less damages on the fiber because the biggest problem is remained fibers damage after burn out print finishing. Fiber damage examined to the condition of finishing material NaHSO$_4$and H$_2$SO$_4$, 3~10min., 100~13$0^{\circ}C$, glycerin. The fiber damages evaluated the break strength and the surface condition by SEM. Among satin, pile fabric which remained fiber is silk, warp knitted fabric which remained fiber is polyester, the fibers damage level were warp knitted fabric$0^{\circ}C$, glycerin and for 6 minutes by NaHSO$_4$. When carbonized by 20%. 50% and 70% to express textile design, carbonizing rate was not effect on the fiber damage very much. There was almost no damages with glycerine, and almost no damages during 3~6minutes fixation time, 10$0^{\circ}C$ steaming heat fixation by NaHSO$_4$and H$_2$SO$_4$. Without glycerine, there were damage by hydrolysis on polyesters surface and the fiver was broken by fixation time.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.5 s.84
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.