• Title/Summary/Keyword: Satin

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Study of silk lousiness (I) (견사 Lousiness에 대한 연구 (I))

  • 최병희;김낙정;박광의;남중희
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.3
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 1963
  • This treatise is to set up a fundamental condition of checking silk lousiness and to set up a new improving method of cocoon bave lousiness after super refining treatment. It is also studied whether silk lousiness can be eliminated through the observation of the silk gland, or the lousiness can be able to improve through such a study. The conclusions obtained in this paper are as follows. 1. Silk lousiness is able to be observed most properly when the light direction and the fiber direction are parallel in plan view of the silk cloth and the greater the angle between them is, the less the lousiness is observed. When, however, the angle is greater than some specific angle(30$^{\circ}$), no more lousiness is observed. This specific angle is named by the author as Lousiness Horizontal Critical Angle. 2. Silk lousiness can be observed when the angle of light incidence against the silk cloth is six degrees, while the larger the angle is, the less the lousiness is observed. When, however, the angle is greater than same specific angle(45$^{\circ}$) the lousiness disappears. Such a specific angle is named by the author as Lousiness Vertical Critical Angle. 3. The best textile composition to decrease lousiness defect is plan weave, while twill and satin weave show more lousiness with the same silk fiber. 4. Lousiness was classified as Lousiness A, B, ana C of which A was the general lousiness, B was the group type, and C was the glucose type and the standard photographs for the lousiness grading of these types were prepared. 5. The proper soap-refining hours of silk for lousiness test was eight hours. 6. The greater the difference of fiber diameter between the cocoon single bave and the splitend was, the more lousiness was composed. The normal splitends were measured as 1/4-1/5 of the main fiber. 7. The lousiness was found at the cocoon shape ends more than other parts, and found at the middle cocoon layer than other layer which was imagined to be as a result of poor uniform bave spinning of silk worm. 8. Female cocoon had more lousiness than the male cocoon. 9. It was found that there was a great possibility to have the splitends through the observation of the anatomical silkgland, and the author reached a conclusion that the lousiness can be improved to a certain degree only by the elimination of abnormal silk gland from the breeding aspects. 10. The cocoon bave of the offspring after super refining lousiness test and selection showed more improved lousiness defect than that of the parents.

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A historical study of the Large Banner, a symbol of the military dignity of the Late Joseon Dynasty (조선 후기 무위(武威)의 상징 대기치(大旗幟) 고증)

  • JAE, Songhee;KIM, Youngsun
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.54 no.4
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    • pp.152-173
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    • 2021
  • The Large Banner was introduced during the Japanese Invasions of Korea with a new military system. It was a flag that controlled the movement of soldiers in military training. In addition, it was used in other ways, such as a symbol when receiving a king in a military camp, a flag raised on the front of a royal procession, at the reception and dispatch of envoys, and at a local official's procession. The Large Banner was recognized as a symbol of military dignity and training rites. The Large Banner was analyzed in the present study in the context of two different types of decorations. Type I includes chungdogi, gakgi and moongi. Type II includes grand, medium, and small obangi, geumgogi and pyomigi. Each type is decorated differently for each purpose. The size of the flag is estimated to be a square of over 4 ja long in length. Flame edges were attached to one side and run up and down The Large Banner used the Five Direction Colors based on the traditional principles of Yin-Yang and Five Elements. The pattern of the Large Banner is largely distinguished by four. The pattern of large obangi consists of divine beasts symbolizing the Five Directions and a Taoism amulet letter. The pattern of medium obangi features spiritual generals that escort the Five Directions. The pattern of small obangi has the Eight Trigrams. The pattern of moongi consists of a tiger with wings that keeps a tight watch on the army's doors. As for historical sources of coloring for Large Banner production, the color-written copy named Gije, from the collection of the Osaka Prefect Library, was confirmed as the style of the Yongho Camp in the mid to late 18th century, and it was also used for this essay and visualization work. We used Cloud-patterned Satin Damask as the background material for Large Banner production, to reveal the dignity of the military. The size of the 4 ja flag was determined to be 170 cm long and 145 cm wide, and the 5 ja flag was 200 cm long and 175 cm wide. The conversion formula used for this work was Youngjochuck (1 ja =30cm). In addition, the order of hierarchy in the Flag of the King was discovered within all flags of the late Joseon Dynasty. In the above historical study, the two types of Large Banner were visualized. The visualization considered the size of the flag, the decoration of the flagpole, and the patterns described in this essay to restore them to their original shape laid out the 18th century relics on the background. By presenting color, size, material patterns, and auxiliary items together, it was possible not only to produce 3D content, but also to produce real products.

A Study on the Excavated Sab(a funeral fan) from Lime-filled Tomb and Lime-layered Tomb during the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 회격·회곽묘 출토 삽(翣)에 대한 고찰)

  • Yi, Seung Hae;An, Bo Yeon
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.41 no.2
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    • pp.43-59
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    • 2008
  • Sap(?, a funeral fan) is a funeral ceremonial object used in association with a Confucian ceremonial custom, which was crafted by making a wooden frame, attaching a white cloth or a thick paper onto it, drawing pictures on it, and making a holder for a handle. According to Liji(Records of Rites), Sap was used since the Zhou Dynasty, and these Chinese Sap examples are no big different than the Korean Sap examples, which were described in Joseon Wangjo Sillok(Annals of the Joseon Dynasty), Gukjo Oryeui(the Five Rites of the State), and Sarye Pyeollam(Handbook on Four Rituals). This study explored Sap excavated in lime-filled tombs and lime-layered tombs of aristocrats dating back to Joseon, as well as their historical records to examine Sap's characteristics according to their examples, manufacturing methods, and use time. The number and designs of Sap varied according to the deceased' social status aristocrats used mainly one pair of 亞-shaped Bulsap, and a pair of Hwasap with a cloud design depicted on it. A Sap was wrapped twice with Chojuji paper or Jeojuji paper, and for the third time with Yeonchangji paper. Then, it was covered with a white ramie, a hemp, a cotton, a silk satin, etc. Bobul(an axe shape and 亞-shape design) was drawn on both sides of Sap, and a rising current of cloud was drawn at the peripheral area mainly with red or scarlet pigments. Sap, which were excavated from aristocrats'lime-filled and lime-layered tombs, are the type of Sap which were separated from its handle. These excavated Sap are those whose long handles were burnt during the death carriage procession, leaving Sap, which later were erected on both sides of the coffin. The manufacturing process of excavated relics can be inferred by examining them. The excavated relics are classified into those with three points and those with two points according to the number of point. Of the three-point type(Type I), there is the kind of relic that was woven into something like a basket by using a whole wood plate or cutting bamboo into flat shapes. The three-point Sap was concentrated comparatively in the early half of Joseon, and was manufactured with various methods compared with its rather unified overall shape. In the meantime, the two-point Sap was manufactured with a relatively formatted method; its body was manufactured in the form of a rectangle or a reverse trapezoid, and then its upper parts with two points hanging from them were connected, and the top surface was made into a curve(Type II) or a straight line(Type III) differentiating it from the three-point type. This manufacturing method, compared with that of the three-point type, is simple, but is not greatly different from the three-point type manufacturing method. In particular, the method of crafting the top surface into a straight line has been used until today. Of the examined 30 Sap examples, those whose production years were made known from the buried persons'death years inscribed on the tomb stones, were reexamined, indicating that type I was concentrated in the first half of the $16^{th}$ century. Type II spanned from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century to the second half of the $17^{th}$ century, and type III spanned from the first half of the $17^{th}$ century to the first half of the $18^{th}$ century. The shape of Sap is deemed to have changed from type I to type II and again from type II to type III In the $17^{th}$ century, which was a time of change, types II and III coexisted. Of the three types of Sap, types II and III re similar because they have two points; thus a noteworthy transit time is thought to have been the middle of the $16^{th}$ century. Type I compared with types II and III is thought to have required more efforts and skills in the production process, and as time passed, the shape and manufacturing methods of Sap are presumed to have been further simplified according to the principle of economy. The simplification of funeral ceremonies is presumed to have been furthered after Imjinwaeran(Japanese invasion of Joseon, 1592~1598), given that as shown in the Annals of King Seonjo, state funerals were suspended several times. In the case of Sap, simplification began from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century, and even in the $18^{th}$ century, rather than separately crafting Sap, Sap was directly drawn on the coffin cover and the coffin. However, in this simplification of form, regulations on the use of Sap specified in Liji were observed, and thus the ceremony was rationally simplified.