• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.26-36
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• 2009

The aim of this study is to be the fundamental study for virtual clothing system of the future through a comparative analysis of the difference between a virtual frill skirt and a real frill skirt using a 3-dimensional Apparel cad system. Satin was selected as a comparative fabric of the real skirt and virtual skirt. And compared skirts are frilled 1.5widths, 2widths, and 2.5widths. In case of 1.5widths frilled, the real skirts and virtual skirts showed no significant difference except in shirring frill expression. However, in case of 2widths frilled, and 2.5widths frilled skirts, significant differences in the extent of frill flattening, the sectional diagram of the bottom hem, and the skirt shape. The virtual skirt showed that as its multiple proportion of frill increased, the sidelines of the skirt drooped and excessively extended, and collision detection that the belt was twisted and torn apart arose. Furthermore, not only the frill but also the shape of the skirt was transformed, and the bottom hems were widened back and forth, and the sectional diagram of the bottom hems were transformed into rounded shapes.

• 대한기계학회논문집A
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.1241-1250
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• 1996

The characteristics of fatigue cumulative damage and fatigue life of 8-harness satin woven CFRP composites with a circular hole under constant amplitude and 2-level block loading are estimated by Stochastic Makov chain model. It is found in this study that the fatigue damage accumulation behavior is very random and the fatigue damage is accumulated as two regions under constant amplitude fatigue loading. In constant amplitude fatigue loading the predicted mean number of cycles to a specified damage state by Markov chain model shows a good agreement with the test result. The predicted distribution of the fatigue cumulative damage by Markov chain model is similar to the test result. The fatigue life predictions under 2-level block loading by Markov chain model revised are good fitted to the test result more than by 2-parameter Weibull distribution function using percent failure rule.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.249-262
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to contemplate evening dress in contemporary fashion, thereby to analyze aesthetic characteristics of evening dress. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey of evening dresses, and to conduct a case study of survey of fashion photographs covering $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}t$-porter design products from 2000 to 2007 presented by Valentine. Based upon the historical survey, there are five representative styles in evening dress. Flapper chic looks could be characterized by frequent usage of sleeveless straight silhouette with long or mini hemlines, expressing sensuality, luxury, and ethnicity. Satin Siren looks were characterized by bias-cut, slim, long silhouette, expressing sensuality and luxury. Feminine Ideal looks were characterized by hourglass silhouette and decolltage with feminine details such as bow, pleats and frills, expressing historicism, luxury and sensuality. Freedom and fantasy looks were characterized by ethnic details or modern silhouette with transparent, printed materials, expressing ethnicity, sensuality, and luxury. Finally, postmodern glamourous looks were characterized by body-conscious silhouette with transparent, shiny, or stretch materials, expressing sensuality, experimentalism and luxury.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.26-34
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• 2016

Lacquer has a high value as a coating of typical arts and crafts in East Asia including Korea, Japan, and China and traditional representative of the gorgeous satin that is fit to the cultural conditions of each region. Lacquer is harmless to the human body and its robustness, preservatives, moth proofness, and strong heat resistance can maintain a long life. It seems that it will be able to make a significant contribution to create a variety of products if we continually study and raise the productivity and quality of the goodness of these lacquer. In this context, we reviewed the Pitae lacquer wares, which is one of the lacquer of traditional techniques that can be applied to the development of daily necessities and cultural product. Joining the goodness of harmless and environment-friendly lacquer and the characteristics of the leather that can produce a variety of physical beauty can develop household goods of tradition and modernity in harmony. It is worthwhile re-interpreting the tradition in the aspect that we can develop our culture from a modern, plastic, and artistic point of view.

• 동력기계공학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.78-84
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• 2014

The estimation of deformation and strain for the twill-weave carbon fiber reinforced plastic composite(CFRP) during the test with a digital image correlation system were implemented experimentally. The carbon fiber reinforced plastic composites have been developed as the edge technology materials. The plain, twill and satin weave types are commonly used for the CFRP composites. Thus, it is essential to find the deformation characteristics for those types of CFRP more easily. Especially the DIC method can express the visual strain distributions at the full range of the interested areas in the structures. In this study, the mechanical properties of twill-weave CFRP composite and the variation of strains in a full field of the specimen were estimated. The experiments were performed under a tensile loading and 3-point bending test with strain gages. Futhermore the DIC deformation results were estimated for the comparison. The results showed the deformation and strain contours visually well in all region of the interested areas and so usefulness for the safety control of the structures.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2000

This paper surveys the fabric weavability and machine efficiency in the various weaving looms such as Projectile, Rapiers, and Air-jet. Used projectile loom was Sulzer-PU, and FAST-R, THEMA-11E, and Picanol-GTX were used for Rapier looms, as the Air-Jet looms, Picanol PAT and OMNI types were used. Using these looms, 5 harness worsted satin fabrics were woven for surveying the fabric weavability and machine efficiency. Warp yam count of fabric is 1/40Nm, Sirofil, and filling is 1/30 Nm, worsted. End breaks of warp and filling directions for the various types of looms are measured and discussed with the mechanism of each loom. Warp and filling yam tensions are also measured and analysed with open width of shedding motion of each weaving machine. And various warp yam tensions with open width of shedding are measured and analysed according to the warp yam in various heald frame. These results fire also discussed with temples such as bar and ring. Warp yam tensions at the various positions on the fabric with various looms are measured and discussed with fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권6호
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• pp.977-995
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• 2023

This study was aimed at determining the connection between ancient Korean embroidery and the Cheonsuguk mandala-embroidery insignia. Literature and empirical studies were conducted simultaneously, with the scope of these analyses spanning up to 7C in ancient Korea and Japan. The present study confirmed that the structure of Goguryeo tomb murals influenced by Buddhist art is represented in the Cheonsuguk mandala-embroidery insignia, and changes in the image resulted in modifications to the embroidery technique. Embroidery and color composition via complementary color contrast were implemented through Variant 1 outline stitching, which exhibited the development of Baekje embroidery. The embroidery technique confirmed that the form of embroidery developed in to chain stitching, needle looping stitching, outline stitching, satin stitching and Variant 1·2 outline stitching. These findings indicate that Cheonsuguk mandala-embroidery insignia is the result of the integration of the Goguryeo and Baekje cultures.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.163-173
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• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2009

This study is to examine unmarried women's preferences about wedding dresses. This is researched with a survey of 300 unmarried women in Ulsan and Seoul. The survey inquires their preferences of silhouettes, necklines, materials, and details in wedding dress. 290 valid questionnaires are analyzed statistically. Statistical analysis is used average, frequency, and crosstabs with SPSS10.0. The results of this study are as below; As for an income level, the high-income brackets in Ulsan preferred X silhouette, whereas in Seoul H silhouette. The low-income brackets in both areas preferred X silhouette. In necklines, boat neckline was preferred in both areas regardless of incomes. In materials, in Ulsan, the high-income brackets preferred silk, but the low-income brackets in Ulsan preferred satin. In Seoul, silk was preferred regardless of incomes. In details, the high-income brackets in both areas preferred beads and ribbon. In the low-income brackets, embroidery decorations were preferred in Ulsan, whereas beads, jewels and ribbons in Seoul. As for personalities, X silhouette was preferred in most personalities, A silhouette in some personalities in Seoul. In necklines, boat neckline is preferred in most personalities. In materials, silk was preferred in most personalities. In details, beads and jewels were preferred in most personalities. As for ages, in most ages, X silhouette was preferred in Ulsan, and X and A silhouettes in Seoul. In necklines, in most ages, boat neckline was preferred in both areas. In materials, silk was preferred in most ages. In details, beads and jewels were preferred in most ages.