• 복식
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• 제60권6호
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• pp.117-138
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• 2010

This study tries to analyse the type of sasanian crowns by looking into the icons and meanings of various motifs that changed the archetype and shape of the crowns, and the social and political factors that affected those motifs. Based on such analysis, the study is aimed at completing the periodic typology of the sasanian crown. For this study the literature research is combined with the empirical analysis of information. Korymbos which symbolizes globe represented the authority and power of the sasanian kings, but the motif with such meaning was replaced by star motif in the late-sasanian crowns. The basic motifs embellishing the sasanian crown represent Gods, which is interpreted as an attempt to symbolize the relations between Gods and kings. These motifs are found on each king's crown in a different and individual way, which seems because the kings at the time chose the motif that can symbolize their own political intention or spirit. At the early days of the sasanian dynasty, Korymbos motif was highly emphasized on the crowns, and was used throughout the end of the dynasty and then was replaced by star motif. From the mid-4th century, Crescent motif started to be used, which was always shown as the shape supporting Korymbos and star motif on it. Bird wing motif was intermittently used in the early and middle days of the dynasty, and was highly emphasized in the crowns of all the kings in the end of the dynasty. Star motif started to be used in the end of sasanian dynasty.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.61-82
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• 2023

This is a study about the patterns depicted on the reliefs at Taq-i Bustan built during the Sasanian Dynasty of Persia. This study aims to understand the costume culture of the Sassanian Dynasty by analyzing the patterns depicted on the reliefs at Taq-i Bustan. As a research method, a literature survey and a comparative analysis of empirical data collected through historical site exploration was synthesized. The results of this study are as follows: Patterns appearing on the reliefs at Taq-i Bustan include pearl patterns, flower patterns, and animal patterns such as ducks, boars, and simurghs. The themes of these patterns appear differently depending on the social status, so it is assumed that the patterns were used as a means of symbolizing social status in the Sasanian Dynasty. The pearl pattern was a typical pattern that appeared in royal iconography, and the flower pattern appeared in multiple variations, and was a pattern commonly observed in the kings and his servants. Among the animal patterns, the Simurgh(Semurv) pattern is a representative pattern, which symbolizes the fertility and fecundity of the earth and this pattern was observed only on the clothes of kings. Therefore, the Simurgh(Semurv) pattern was understood as a pattern symbolizing the king's wish for the well-being of nature and the people. The patterns of other animals were mainly observed on the king's servants. Through the analysis of the patterns depicted on the reliefs at Taq-i Bustan, the life and the social aspects of the Sassanian Dynasty could be examined.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.1-25
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• 2023

Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs are relatively well preserved among Sassanid relics. They are considered concrete and empirically important materials for studying Sassanian culture. In these rock reliefs, inauguration of various kings and hunting scenes are depicted. Thus, kings' attire and life of the court could be discerned according to eras. The purpose of this study was to investigate Sassanian clothing styles of various social positions by analyzing their clothing depicted in rock reliefs and to improve comprehension of the culture of the Sassanian Dynasty. Methodically, literature studies and artifacts were analyzed in parallel. Data of these two insources were consolidated for comparison. Results of this study are as follows. Since the Sassanian Dynasty succeeded the Parthian Dynasty, the Parthian style of clothing pieces such as tunic and trousers appeared in their attire. Basic types of tunics and trousers did not vary according to social status or age. However, details showed differences in those aspects. In the early Sassanian Dynasty, the dressing style of Rome was adopted. Styles of tunic and trousers featured draperies with many wrinkles and shoes were worn instead of boots. Trousers were tied with laces at ankles and laces were decorated with round clasps, imitating the style used by Kushan kings to the east of Sasanians. External cultural elements were also present in costumes of the Sassanian Dynasty, which played a bridging role for cultural exchanges between Eastern and Western civilizations at the gateway of the Silk Road.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제40권
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• pp.243-270
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• 2007

직물에 표현되는 연주문은 제작 과정상 크기나 모양의 제약이 없어 그 표현이 자유롭고, 그 형태와 재료 색체 등을 통해서 당시의 사회문화를 유추할 수 있다. 본 연구의 주제인 동전(東傳) 연주문은 사산조 페르시아에서 출발하여 실크로드를 통해 전래된 것으로 동서문화 교류와 밀접해 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 연주문이 시작되는 5세기부터 10세기에 해당하는 서 중앙아시아의 벽화 복식, 중국 신강 청해 일대에서 출토된 고대직물 그리고 일본 정창원(正倉院) 소장품의 연주문에 대해 고찰하였다. 그리고 이상의 자료를 통해 연주문의 동서 교류 현상과 구조적 변천과정을 밝히는 데에 목적을 두고 있다. 실크로드를 따라 동전(東傳)하는 연주문의 도안은 지역에 따라 조금씩 차이가 난다. 예를 들러 고대 소그들인들이 주로 활동했던 파미르고원 서쪽에서는 서아시아적인 모티브가 변형된 사슴이나 화식조 등을 주제로 하는 연주문금이 출토되지만, 쿠차 신강에서는 중국적인 모티브가 첨가되어 한자문이 삽입되거나 태양신[Helios] 대신 불상문 보살문으로 나타난다. 이처럼 새로운 문양의 등장은 구조적인 변화를 동반하여 점차 사산조 페르시아의 정형화된 패턴에서 벗어나게 된다. 그리고 그 구조적인 변천과정은 후대 여러 문양의 구성 및 배치방법과 연관이 있다. 연주 환간의 마름모꼴 공간에 안치된 사합초화문 등이 능화문의 형태로 발전되었으며, 10세기 이후 나타나는 기하학적인 골조문양의 유행 단위문양을 상하좌우로 배치하는 탑자문의 전개법이 연주문과 유사하다. 요컨대 연주문은 기술적 진보와 함께 표현 자체에서 세련된 예술적 코드를 읽을 수 있으며, 지역이나 문화를 넘어서는 보편적인 문양으로서 중요한 의미를 지닌다.