• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.20
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

Three kinds of natural pesticides extracted from plants which are being sold in the Korean markets, were estimated effects on materials of art of museum. Tested samples were 1) silk fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gallut(copperas post mordancy), gardenia, turmeric, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+amur cork tree, indigo+sappanwood) 2) cotton fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gardenia, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+sappanwood) 3) undyed ramie fabric 4) Korean papers : undyed, dyed(sappanwood, indigo, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower) 5) pigments : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white 6) painted plates : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white. Conditions of tests were that after samples were exposed to 10 times of promoted concentration for 9 months in relative humidity $55{\pm}1%$ and temperature $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, they were compared with standards. Items of estimation were color difference(${\Delta}E^*$) and tenacity. After exposure to pesticides, undyed silk cotton ramie fabrics and Korean papers were not nearly changed in their colors, but colors of most of dyed samples were clearly changed by pesticides except for partial samples(acorn- and madder-dyed fabrics etc, gardenia-dyed samples). Especially changes of colors of turmeric-dyed silk fabrics were most distinct. And colors of pigments and painted plates containing lead, copper, arsenic, mercury and vegetable pigments, were clearly changed. Tenacities of yams of undyed silk fabrics were not nearly changed and undyed cotton fabrics were a little reduced as compared with standards. But tenacities of yams of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were clearly reduced or increased as compared with standards. Especially, madder-dyed silk fabrics were increased 10% or more and indigo-dyed silk fabrics were reduced 10% or less in all pesticides. Also madder- and sappanwood(alum post mordancy)-dyed cotton fabrics were increased 10% or more in all pesticides.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.120-126
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• 2015

In this study, we used various dyes from natural pigments such as tumeric, goldthread, indigo, pagoda tree flower, sappanwood, and safflower to make the Hanji wallpaper with super eight colors of yellow, orange, green, turquoise, violet, red, blue, and magenta. As a result of measuring the lightfastness, magenta dyed with sappanwood showed the worst effect, but blue dyed with only indigo showed the best effect. In terms of the spot test by water, red wallpaper dyed with safflower showed the clear spot, but blue, turquoise, and green dyed with indigo resulted in a little spot. The orange, violet, and magenta dyed with goldthread and sappanwood showed antibacterial activity, and the turquoise, green, and blue also has a little antibacterial activity. However, yellow and red didn't show the some result as expected. In the experiment for efficiency of formaldehyde removal, all Hanji wallpapers dyed with natural pigments showed the significant removal effect of formaldehyde, especially turquoise and red were the highest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.659-669
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the degradation of silk fabrics dyed with gardenia and sappanwood by Ultraviolet Light(UV). To asses the effect of uv on dyed silk fabrics, physical and chemical properties of samples were explored. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time. Mordanting improved ultraviolet-cut ability and the sappanwood dyed samples were superior to those of gardenia dyed in ultraviolet-cut ability. Color progressively faded away as uv exposure time increased, accordingly, $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ were changed. Morphological change observed with SEM represented degradation of silk fabrics from the outer fibril to the inner fibril. Tensile Strength abruptly decreased as uv exposure time increased and the mordanted samples showed higher tensile strength than the unmordanted. FT-IR analysis confirmed that main peaks at 3297 and $1704cm^{-1}$ band for silk fabric were due to N-H and C=O stretching, gardenia peaks at 1654 and $668cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(ester), C=C(alken) and O-C=O(carboxylic acids) of crocin and sappanwood peaks at $1715cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(cyclic keton) of brazilin appeared on the samples exposed for 14 days, but these peaks indicating colorants after 28 days of uv exposure faded away due to prolonged exposure of uv.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1653-1661
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• 2007

The research aimed to establish the standard extraction procedure for examining brazilin, the major chromophoric substance of Sappanwood, using GC-MS with the ultimate goal of identifying the sappanwood dye in severely faded archaeological textiles. The amount of brazilin represented by the GC abundance was the largest when acetone was used as the extraction medium, followed by methanol. Shaking plate operated at room temperature was more effective than the waterbath shaker which was operated at $30^{\circ}C$. In both cases, the extraction method which incorporated one hour pre-soaking before the 12 hours of actual extraction resulted in a larger amount of brazilin detection than the extraction procedure without the one hour pre-soaking. In case of water extraction, pH 5 resulted in the most effective pH level for the extraction of brazilin, The best GC-MS parameter for detecting brazilin was to set the column temperature initially at $50^{\circ}C$. gradually increase to $210^{\circ}C$ at a $23^{\circ}C/min$ rate, finally increase to $305^{\circ}C$ at $30^{\circ}C/min$ rate, and hold for 14 minutes, and the MSD scan range at $75{\sim}400m/z$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.408-415
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• 2013

In order to evaluate a feasibility of industrial art use of veneer such as cylindrical laminated veneer lumber, the veneers of 4 species of Korean pine, radiata pine, yellow poplar and Japanese cypress were natural dye-colored and clear finished. Natural dyes were red color originated from sappanwood, blue color from polygonum indigo, and yellow color from Amur cork tree and gardenia. the clear coats of crack seal clear and UV protection oil were applied on the dyed veneer. The dyeing and finishing characteristics through fading test were summarized as follows; In non-dyed and non-finished Korean pine veneer, lightness was decreased and yellow and red hues increased after fading test. In natural dyed- and finished-veneer, color difference of gardenia-mixed Amur cork tree was generally highest, and that of polygonum indigo was lowest. Compared to non-treatment of veneers of Korean pine and yellow poplar, color difference decreasing effect by finishing was shown in crack seal clear and UV protection oil. In addition, UV protection oil was more favorable than crack seal clear with more decreased color difference. In result, maximum values of color difference after fading for 8 days were recorded about 16 to 20, which are remarked 'very much' of 12.1 or more when reviewing with 'National bureau of standards unit in USA'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

This study was carried out on the process of natural dye substances which can flock ultraviolet rays without producing harmful substances by pollution, germs, etc. While making human body safe in contact, extracting Gardenia, Sappan wood, Radix scutellariae, Cromwell, Mugwort, Gallnut, Lac. Those are used for curing diseases, dyeing silk cloth with those extracts, and examining the color fastness, Ultraviolet protection. From this study, the following conclusion was produced. Brightness was lower in pre-mordanting than in post. And color difference showed that Radix scutellariae was the highest. Aluminum-mordanting showed a higher color difference than Fe. Colorfastness to washing was high in all samples, and the degree of color-changing by washing was the highest in the sample dyed by gardenia, pre-mordanted gallnut showed the highest degree. Colorfastness to perspiration was the highest in gardenia. UV-A test showed that all samples a high rate of 85% or higher compared with test white cloth. Especially, post-mordanted radix scutellariae, pre-mordanted gallnut and post-mordanted sappanwood showed a superior blocking rate.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.219-234
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• 2014

Fabrics, natural dyed fabrics, papers, natural dyed papers and paints were examined effects of colors and mechanical properties for materials of museum collections under anoxic treatment. Anoxic conditions using nitrogen and argon were oxygen concentration 0.01%, temperature($20^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $30^{\circ}C$), 50% RH and exposure time 30 days. Examined fabrics were raw silk fabric, UV irradiated raw silk fabric, degummed silk fabric, UV irradiated degummed silk fabric, cotton fabric, and UV irradiated cotton fabric. Natural dyed silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with fresh indigo, indigo, safflower, gromwell, madder sappanwood, amur cork tree, turmeric, gardenia, barberry root, pagoda tree flower, cochineal, lac, alnus japonica, gallnut, chestnut shell, and combination(indigo and safflower, indigo and amur cork tree, indigo and pagoda tree flower, indigo and sappanwood). Papers were Korean papers(mulberry paper, mulberry(70%) and rice straw(30%) mixed paper), Japanese paper(gampi paper), cotton paper, refined linen paper, cotton, linen & manila mixed fibre furnish, copy paper, news print, and alum sized mulberry paper. Natural dyed papers were dyed with indigo, sappanwood, madder, safflower, gardenia, amur cork tree, and pagoda tree flower. Paints were painted on alum-sized papers and silk fabrics using glue and pigments(azurite, malachite, cinnabar, vermilion, orpiment, gamboge, red lead, haematite, iron oxide red, indigo(lake), lac, cochineal, safflower, madder root lake, celadonite, smalt, ultramarine blue, lapis lazuli, prussian blue, kaolin, lead white, oyster-shell white, and clam-shell white). The color differences(${\Delta}E^*$) of all examined materials were below 1.5 or lowered than control samples after anoxic treatment. The variations of tenacity of yarns of fabrics and natural dyed fabrics after anoxic treatment were within that of standard silk and cotton fabrics. Gases(nitrogen and argon) and temperatures of anoxic treatment did not also affected color differences and variations of tenacity of materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.46-53
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the functional properties of Changhoji with natural dyeing. This research would provide a basic information for interior material Changhoji. To estimate functional properties of super eight colors Changhoji, water staining, lightfastness, and floodlight color test were executed. In term of the water staining test, blue color showed the clear and other colors showed the little spot. As a result of measuring the lightfastness, Magenta color dyed with sappanwood showed the worst. But blue color dyed with indigo and Turquoise color dyed with indigo and Pagoda tree flower showed the highest. As a result of floodlight color test was no difference between sample color and floodlight color.