• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.82-88
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• 2003

This study was carried out to investigate combination dyeing of the cationized cotton with natural colorants extracted from Gardenia and Sappan wood extract using methanol. To improve dyeing properties of cotton with natural dye, cotton fabric was preheated with cationizing agent containing chlorohydrine group in aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide. On the whole the various medium colors were developed by repeat dyeing with different colorants after dyeing with one colorant in case of natural dyeing, In this study, however in order to obtain various colors on cationized cotton fabrics with natural dyes, pre-mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. The various colors were obtained according to various metal compounds for pre-mordants and various mixing portion of Gardenia and Sappan wood. Metal compounds containing alum, copper and iron were used for pre-mordants.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.49-59
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• 2009

The bast fibers of paper mulberry were dyed by using sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut extracted under various extraction conditions. The surface absorption rates, color, and sunlight fastness of the dyed fibers were compared to those of the dyed cotton and silk. The K/S values of silk showed the highest values, followed by gallnut, gardenia, and sappan wood. The optimum extraction conditions of the dye materials were 20 g/L (input amount of dye materials per liter), $90^{\circ}C$ (extraction temperature), and 30 minutes (extraction time). The values of saturation were observed to increase with the increase of the amount of dye materials, extraction time, and extration temperature. However, no effect were found on the values of hue and lightness. In all samples, the developed colors dyed by sappan wood and gardenia were the series of YR, and Y, respectively. The colors of dyed cotton and bast fibers of paper mulberry by gallnut were the series of Y and the dyed silk showed the series of YR. The values of saturation of the bast fibers of paper mulberry by sappan wood and gardenia showed the highest values of saturation, followed by cotton, and silk. In the case of gallnut, cotton showed the highest values of saturation, followed by the bast fibers of paper mulberry, and silk. The sunlight fastness were not improved in all dyeing conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.9
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• pp.119-130
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to confirm the possibility of screen printing with Natural dyes. The coloring matter such as sappan wood was used in order to obtain the colorant powder through the processes of extraction, low pressure concentration and the spray dry. After the screen printing on silk and cotton fabrics with colorant, K/S value changes of color and color fastness were measured. The main resets were as follows : 1. The viscosity of printing thickeners of sappan wood powder was about 15,200 cps, and the highest K/S value of the fabrics printed with sappan wood was obtained at 90$\pm$2$\^{C}$ of steaming temperature and 80 minutes of steaming time. 2. For the fabrics printed with sampan wood, adding of urea was not effective, since the more the concentration of urea increased, the more K/S values decreased. 3. For the natural dyes printing, the more the concentration of colorants increased, the more K/S values increased. In general, the K/S values of the printed fabrics were higher when treated with mordants rather than without mordants. Specifically, the λmax sappan wood was 520∼570 nm, and the K/S value was highest when treated with Cu mordant and lowest when treated with Sn. 4. Generally, the color fastness was relatively fair.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

To investigate natural dyeing properties of bast fiber, properties of pre mordanting dyeing of sappan wood, gardenia and gallnut such as K/S values, developed color, and fastness were evaluated. Silk showed the most increased K/S values by pre mordanting treatment when Fe was uses as a mordant. The optimized amount of Fe was 3%. The colors of sappan wood was a series of YR. After pre mordanting treatment with Fe, the colors of bast fiber of mulberry and silk showed a series of RP, and the color of cotton showed a series of Y. The color of gallnut was a series of Y regardless of pre mordant treatment. Sappon wood (YR), gardenia (Y), and gallnut (Y) showed various colors such as YR, R, and RP, respectively. Sunlight fastness was not improved by pre mordanting treatment. The effect of pre mordanting treatment was not good. Especially the treatment with Al showed poor sunlight fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

Melange yams were prepared by varing the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, respectively. The antibacterial activity and deodorization on melange yarns were evaluated for bacteria reduction rate and deodorization rate. The bacterial reduction rate on melange yarns was explored with Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae. The melange yarns on the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Sappan wood and Indigo showed high Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate of 99% and 90%, regardless of Al-mordanting treatment, but those with Gadenia hardly showed bacteria reduction rate. The melange yarn showed high Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate of 99% for Al-mordanting treatment with Sappan wood. The others were poor. The deodorization of 81% and 98∼99% obtained with melange raw sliver and melange sliver dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, but dyeing did not significantly affect deodorization rate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.74-86
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• 1995

Antibacterial and deodorization properties of silk fabrics dyed with Sappan wood are investigated by Halo, Shake flask, Bioassay and Detection column methods.The results are obtained as follows; 1. Although K/S values increase with Al mordant and concentrate concentrations, these are decreased in 10% Al mordant concentration in case of 4mlg dye concentration. 2. Reduction ratios of bacteria increase with K/S values in various tests. 3. When undyed silk fabrics are treated with Al mordant, reduction ratios of bacteria are not varied with Al mordant concentrations. 4. Deodorization property of Al pre-mordanted dyeing silk fabrics is better than one of unmordanted dyeing and raw silk fabrics. 5. Antibacterial properties of Cu and Cr mordanted dyeing fabrics are better than ones of the dyeing fabrics treated with the other mordants. 6. Natural dyes extracted from Sappan wood show the good antibacterial and deodorization properties, and colorant among various components contained in Sappan wood has a excellent antibacterial and deodorization properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.239-245
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• 2003

This study is to research on printing method by use of colorants extracted from Sappan wood. As for the research, the stability of paste added by mordants, steaming condition, optimal mordant concentration, change of surface color and colorfastness were measured. The experiment showed that guar gum were stability among the sodium-alginate, modified starch, guar gum. And the surface color was best when the streaming time was 60 minutes, mordant concentration 3g/l. And for colorfastness experiment, colorfastness to drycleaning was good, but colorfastness to light and colorfastness to washing showed no desirable result.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.788-799
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• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.175-179
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• 1996

The sappan wood dyeing conditions and mordanting methods suitable for ramie as well as silk were investigated. The HVC values of dyed silk ramie fabrics were varied by the amount of sappan wood in the dyeing bath, while the optimum weight of sappan wood for the extraction of dye was around 15g/l. The K/S value of dyed silk fabric showed no significant difference in the pH range of 3.5 to 6.5. However, the K/S values of dyed ramie fabric was increased proportion to the pH value of dye bath. The K/S value of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were most increased at the highest dyeing temperature in the range of 30 to 9$0^{\circ}C$. By various mordantings, the HVC values of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were differentiated and it's color fastness could be improved.