• Title/Summary/Keyword: SPIRIT

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The Research for Amarican Sportswear - Focusing on Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan - (미국(美國) Sportswear에 관한 연구(硏究) - Claire McCardell, Cavin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan을 중심으로 -)

  • Jung, Sung-Hye
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.15
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    • pp.217-231
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    • 1990
  • The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

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현대 패션에 나타난 Eroticism 에 관한 연구-초현실주의와 팝 아트의 Eroticism을 중심으로

  • 이효진
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.23
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    • pp.111-130
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study was to illuminate eroticism represented din modern fashion. Art based on sex is very important like all of the other cultural values. But we feel that erotic art, neglected, suppressed , and persecuted for centuries, has an important contribution to make to the understanding of art, the social history of mankind, and human happiness and progress. It is our deep personal conviction that erotic art serves important social and therapeutic functions. Erotic art expresses the demand for sexual freedom-a freedom vital to individual happiness and mental well-being, And sexual freedom, in turn, cannot exist without a high degree of political and economic freedom as well. In that sense , erotic art came a truly revolutionaly message ; it demands no less than extension of freedom , not only in the sexual are, but in every sphere of social life. What is eroticism \ulcorner Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction . Eroticism is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth, religion , customes and art. It also has a close relationship with psychological activities of our life. Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization. Eroticism is related to different kinds of art, which express internal spirit of human especially Surrealism. Surrealism is above all a movement of the conquest and deepening of the unconscious. The exploitation of Freud's discoveries opended a new, practically unlimited path for artistic studies to Surrealism . Especially all theory of mental psychoanalysis a affected artists greatly in western art, Freud was appraised highly on his achievements by art critics in art history on his achievements by art critics in art history. As far as erotic subject matter was concerned, Surrealism provided a means of presentig it. Pop Art is not actually a movement , born at a specific time and place, nor is it an easy concept to define. The term first appeared in Great Britain during the fifties, when it referred, particularly in the decorative arts, to an inclination to go back and imitate the stereotyped images of the mass media : film, advertising , cartoons, and other popular consumer products. The eroticism expressed in Pop Art calls the modern's attentions to their devastated minds, taking advantage of the commercialized sex. Fashion has developed constantly reflecting the spiritual aspiration and social and cultural phenomona of man , and artistic steam. Eroticism in fashion is the style which expresses the internal meanings of sexuality through the texture, color, pattern , silhouette etc.

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A Study on Aesthetic Category of Dress -Selected period of the Renaissance and the Baroque (복식의 미적 범주-르네상스$\cdot$바로크 복식에 적용하여)

  • Choi, Soo-Hyeon;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.23
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    • pp.197-209
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.

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Korean Costume shown on 'The Journey of Duty in 1954~55' ('The Journey of Duty to Korea in 1954~55'를 통해 본 한국패션)

  • Cho, Woo Hyun;Kim, Mijin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.7
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    • pp.129-144
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    • 2015
  • This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

A Study on the Formative Character of Maximalism Shown in the Works of Alexander McQueen (알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander McQueen) 작품에 나타난 맥시멀리즘(Maximalism))

  • Lee, Ji-Hyun;Roh, Youn-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.6
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    • pp.165-181
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    • 2012
  • Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

Dress and Ideology during the period of 4.19 Revolution and the 5.16 Coup in the early 1960s Korea (4.19 혁명과 5.16 군사정변기의 이데올로기와 복식)

  • Lee, Min Jung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.706-718
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    • 2014
  • Ideology which symbolizes the belief system about the order of human society represents itself in a concrete form through dress which reflects material and conceptual world. In the early 1960s Korea, where a civil revolution and a military coup took place, good examples of dress representing ideology could be found. This study investigates the dress representing ideology of the period, and examines its manifestation and aspect of transition. Literature survey and case study were conducted. The following results were obtained: First, dress representing ideology was symbolically verifying its differences and was changing with the course of time. There were the flow going down from the government, and the flow going up from the movement of the civilian. Through this process, design elements of ideological dress were combined in a dialectic way to form a new representational dress such as Jaegunbok. Second, costly and luxurious clothes meant a tool to rule over people, and the opposition was uniform meaning equality. In 1960 Korea, black waves of school uniforms appeared to lead the social change. A year later, the military government seized power in a 5.16 coup and it enforced uniform upon every people to achieve equal austerity and modernized spirit. Lastly, cotton, which was originated from Gandhi's movement in India, was symbolizing nationalism till the early 1960s in Korea meaning the funding own development with own resources.

The effect of academic achievement and cooperative learning attitudes via differentiated cooperative learning in a class (학급 내 수준별 협동학습이 수학 학업성취도 및 협동학습 태도에 미치는 영향)

  • An, Jong Su
    • Journal of the Korean School Mathematics Society
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.465-492
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    • 2014
  • In this study, through the analysis of the mathematics curriculum and textbooks, we produce the cooperative learning activity sheets which was appropriate instructional content for various levels. And, by using them appropriately at the levels of student learning on their own interest, we enhance academic achievement and cooperative learning attitudes. Specific for details for this study are as follows: First, through the applying a variety of the differentiated cooperative learning activity sheets and developing instruction learning, we improve the academic achievement. Second, through the making and utilizing the differentiated cooperative learning activity sheets and the interest and attitudes in mathematics, we improve the cooperative learning attitude. Third, through the levels of the subgroup cooperative learning, we improve the math learning abilities through a learner-centered. Further the purpose of this study is to bring up complementary cooperative spirit among colleagues.

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The therapeutic effect of relative satisfaction on pain treatment: focus on gobchuchum (a hunchback dance) of Ok-jin Gong

  • Ko, Kyung-Ja;Hwang, Sun Yeoun
    • CELLMED
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.7.1-7.3
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    • 2017
  • Ok-jin Gong's hunchback dance is considered to be a strange dance in Korea. However, there have been no reports of the effects of music and dance therapy as a pain treatment. The aim of this article is to argue that watching and listening to the hunchback dance of Ok-jin Gong may have significant effects as a form of pain treatment. The creator of this style of dance suspected that dance in general can be an outlet for our inner emotions. Her dance in this case has received critical and complimentary reviews as well. However she has been cited as the main culprit behind the destruction of traditional dance forms in the Korean dance world. Nonetheless, her bewitching stage presence attracted much attention. She satirized the feelings of the under privileged' through music and dance. We tend to feel somehow relative poverty and small in the presence of a rich and successful man. On the other hand, the artist felt that it is the public who would be relatively comforted and satisfied in the presence of the weak and handicapped. A free spirit that makes us forget pain is the very essence of her dancing. Her dance and music sound as if she sublimated her sadness and ugliness, changing it to happiness and beauty. She puts herself in a low position and spreads a sense of freedom and relief to the world. Hence, the author felt that innumerable people have been comforted in these ways by her dance.

A Study on Long-term Monitoring of Seaweed Flora and Community Structure at Hakampo, Western Coast of Korea (한국 서해안 학암포 해조상 및 군집구조의 장기모니터링 연구)

  • Heo, Jin Suk;Han, Su Jin;Choi, Han Gil;Nam, Ki Wan
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • v.48 no.6
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    • pp.969-976
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    • 2015
  • Macroalgal community structure was seasonally examined at Hakampo (Taean) in western coast of Korea from February 2007 to October 2010. Also, the effects of "Hebei Spirit" oil spill on the seaweed community structure were evaluated. A total of 101 macroalgal species were identified, comprising 12 green, 18 brown and 71 red algae. Species richness ranged 58-65 species with maximal in 2008 and minimal in 2009. Seaweed biomass ranged $75.81-102.06g\;dry\;wt./m^2$ (mean, $88.78g/m^2$) with maximal in 2008 and minimal in 2010. Vertical distribution from the high to low intertidal zone was Neorhodomela aculeata and Polyopes affinis; Corallina pilulifera and Chondrus ocellatus; Sargassum thunbergii and Ulva australis. Coarsely-branched seaweeds comprised the highest proportion of biomass ($37.17g/m^2$, or 41.86% of the total biomass) and ecological state group I (ESG I) seaweed biomass was between 81.67-85.44%. Also, ephemeral macroalgae including Ulva species sharply increased in species number and biomass within 1-2 year from the "Hebei Sprit" oil spill in the mid and low intertidal zone. Hakampo rocky shore is still good condition as evaluated based on macroalgal species number, biomass, and composition in functional form and ESG I seaweeds.

Effects of Selection Factors of Hospitals for the Elderly upon Satisfaction of Patients and their Intent of Revisit and Information by Word of Mouth (노인요양병원 선택요인이 환자만족도와 재이용 및 구전의도에 미치는 영향)

  • Kwon, Jin
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.11 no.10
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    • pp.301-311
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    • 2011
  • This paper is aimed at providing fundamental data for marketing strategies needed to determine the direction of policy to operate hospitals in an effective way. From the analysis, it was found that: first, expectation toward hospitality of the staff, facilities, environment and administrative service of hospitals for the elderly exercises significantly positive(+) effects on satisfaction of patients; second, trust in and satisfaction with administrative service of hospitals for the elderly exerts significantly positive(+) effects on the intent of patients for revisit and information by word of mouth; and third, the intent for revisit influences positively the intent for information by word of mouth significantly. It is therefore needed to try to understand the motives and tendencies of the elderly in selecting hospitals, to promote their satisfaction and to cultivate the spirit for patient-oriented service. Furthermore, efforts should be made to gain trust of medical staff, effects of medical treatment as well as medical equipment in addition to laborious endeavors to work out marketing strategies backed up by price competitiveness of paradigm.