• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제29호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2001

As a part of Avant-Garde movement centered in Russia before and after the Revolution in 1917, Russian Constructivism was born as most experimental and avant-garde modernity artistic movement. Russian Constructivism played a significant part in relative to Avant-Garde in the beginning of twentieth century and has contributed to a series of artistic movement, it deserves a status befitting its contribution to modem abstract art. Noticing the fact that Constructivist approaches are being attempted in modern architecture with the new rise of Constructivist design theory and increased interest in Constructivism, this thesis explores the design elements characterizing Constructivism in art and architecture To be specific, it suggests the relation of Plastic paradigm in formalistic, elemental and technical aspects and categories into Plastic characteristics. Thereby, the thesis aims to categorize the elements in terms of contradicting two trends of pure plastic and scientific expressions, and to analyze comparatively the related Plastic trends represented in modern space design. The thesis recolonizes that attempts to break out from stereotypes of Constructivism to reinvent itself constantly have contributed to an unconventional forms and new aesthetic standards and have a great impact on idealistic forms in many genres.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2005

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
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• pp.374-375
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• 2004

• 대한건축학회논문집:계획계
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.93-102
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• 2019

In 1960s Russian avant-garde architects such as Moisei Ginzburg, Konstantin Melnikov and Ivan Leonidov were rediscovered in the western architectural society. In this period Rem Koolhaas investigated the projects of Ivan Leonidov with great enthusiasm. In late 1920s and early 1930s when the hope and fantasy to the social revolution and technology reached the climax, The third generation of Russian avant-garde intended to find the new synthesis of the technology, the form and the social ideology. In this context, Leonidov proposed audacious projects from the small scale to the urban scale in the influence of Malevich's suprematism, Vesnin's technological fantasy and Ginzburg's concept of "social condenser". These projects seriously affected Koolhaas. This relationship of Leonidov and Koolhaas was indicated but not investigated in concrete manner. This study intends to analyze the projects of Leonidov and to investigate the relationship of Leonidov and Koolhaas in Delirious NewYork and in the projects of Koolhaas. We will analyse this relationship in three categories : hedonistic technology, social collectivity and pure geometry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2022

Since the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Russian public has been rapidly adapting to belated globalization, consistent with the ever-changing market economy. The purpose of this study was to investigate the social background and modern fashion of Russia after the collapse of the Soviet system and consider the characteristics of modern Russian fashion that have emerged in various ways amid the social changes. This study has significance in expanding the breadth of understanding the rapidly growing modern Russian fashion by considering modern Russian fashion and preparing the foundation while filling the need for research on the Russian fashion market, which has great potential. In the scope of the study, we investigated fashion from the post-2000s, when consumption began in earnest after Russia suffered a period of social and economic turmoil and switched to a liberalistic economy in 1991, to the present. In addition, we conducted an analysis focusing on the works of fashion designers who came from Russia and actively participated in work activities in Russia or abroad. Russian fashion designers reflect the unique cultural characteristics of Russia in their designs and incorporate Russian art into their designs to represent new fashion. Through continuous attempts for creative fashion design, modern Russian fashion will be developed in more diverse ways in the future. Thus, a follow-up study using various approaches to Russian fashion is needed.

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.152-168
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• 2007

The aim of this study is to shed light on essentials of Suprematist artists focusing on Malevich and their works in relation to modem design, and to examine their roles in the modem design industry compared to those of modem designers. The study obtains the following result on Suprematist artists and their works in Russian avant-garde in terms of modem design. Firstly, Suprematist artists had a great deal of interest in practical design although it seemed Suprematist were replaced by utilitarianism in avant-garde during the Russian revolution. Secondly, Suprematist artists were the first artists to bring the birth of modem design trends by applying their art in geometric forms to clothing and fabric design as well as ornaments and handicraft. Thirdly, the artists' attempt to work with needle workers made it possible to set achievements in design and modem decorative art exhibitions in various fields of art-life. As for the role of modem designers, Suprematist artists including Malevich have significant meanings as follows: Firstly, Malevich was a creative, future-oriented artistic designer who realized zaum of painting on the stage and created suprematistic mode in a cosmic point of view in order to agree with the environment. Secondly, Suprematist artists knew the importance of works that were produced by craftsmen and worked together with them. Therefore, the designers could maintain fabric decoration in difficult conditions knowing the importance of the high value-added industry. Thirdly, they were artists in real life who embodied the ideas and theories of Suprematist in sample works by recognizing the need of changes in life environment: they planned to set a new visual world in art but did not confine the idea only to painting.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제3호
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• pp.173-192
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• 2005

Yoo Youngkuk started his career as an artist when he entered Bunkagakuin of Tokyo in 1935 he actively participated in the Japanese art scene as a young Korean artist until 1943. In his earliest works, Rhapsody and Work B, Surrealist and abstract influences are manifested as these were prevalent in Japan at the time. With the exception of Rhapsody and Work B, all works available that were executed between 1937 and 1940 are abstract, which points to the fact that Yoo intended abstraction from the beginning. Surviving works in relief suggest his early style was founded on the abstractions similar to Russian Avant-Garde, Neo-plasticism and Bauhaus simplicity. His early abstractions were not the ideational images derived in the process of the abstraction of the representational image, but they arose from the constructive attitude in composing the already stylized non-representational geometries. It is worth noting that his early emphasis was on the pure and absolute geometric abstraction, rather than the images motivated from the figurative representation. Yoo differentiates himself from Kim Whan Ki in the following aspects: one, he eliminated the subject matter i.e. human figures and the nature; two, he maintained the constructivist attitude in creating a strict and absolute abstraction; three, he experimented with different styles without combining them. He manifests direct influences from the prevalent Western art influences, such as Futurism and Russian Avant-Garde, unlike Kim who vaguely references. In both paintings and reliefs, Yoo's attempt in the realization of the pictorial depth and space seems cerebral and conceptualized compared with the other artists of the time who resolved abstraction via the constructive dimension. Uemura, a contemporary critic to the geometric abstractions in Japan, disapproves the stylistic bent in the adaptation of the abstract painting without the comprehension of its spiritual movement. As witnessed in other criticisms as well, contemporary Japanese critics' interest lie mainly in the superficial observation such as the presence of representational elements, composition and use of color. Such formal and superficial understanding of the geometric abstraction resulted in