• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.59-70
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• 2004

Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King＇s Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun＇s royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.89-100
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• 2018

The stylobate for expanding the external stage area was the most frequently installed installment out of the installments installed for royal court ceremonies. The stylobate was installed for various ceremonies such as funeral rites, ancestral rites, customary formalities, state examination, feasts for celebrating a honored guest of the court, queen's silkworm cultivating ceremony, heir appointment, the presentation of honorary titles for the king or queen in honor of their merits, and entertainment of foreign dignitaries. The exact period stylobates came to be used for the play stage. The stylobate consists of the 紅座板, 屯太木, 竹欄間, 足木, and the 層橋. Depending on the 足木, the substructure of the stylobate, the stylobate could be divided into the 長足木, 中足木, 短足木, 平足木 type. The detail structure of the stylobate changed in form from the jokmok and duntaemok that appeared until the time of King Seonjo, into the 長屯太木, 短屯太木, and the 短短屯太木 during the time of King Heonjong. With the introduction of the 中足木, materials began to become more segmented and the structure stronger. According to existing records, while the height of the stylobate was not significantly high prior to King Seonjo's reign, the 十四層雲橋 and the 十三層層橋 introduced during the time of Emperor Gojong was designed to reflect his rank in external ceremonies while the eight story step bridge was exhibited in internal ceremonies to reflect the rank of Queen Mother Sinjeong. From here, we can deduce that the fourteen and thirteen story cloud bridges representing the king was of a higher grade than the eight story step bridge which represented the queen mother. Finishing by adding boards to the lower part of the stylobates began to appear in the time of King Seonjo. During King Heonjong's reign, the lower finish became gentrified with a thin board called 修粧板, and yeomupan 廉隅板 for decorating the edges of the stylobates were installed. Such style of finishing the lower part of the stylobate with boards mostly appeared in elaborate feasts 進饌 and celebrations 進宴 within the royal court 內宴. The stylobates appeared to have served not only practical purposes such as expanding the stage area, but also as installments which realize the authority and prestige of the royal crown. They were installed according to the purpose of the ceremony and the rank of the participant. In short, stylobates became established during King Seonjo's reign, became segmented and gentrified during King Heonjong's reign, and began to take height variations during Emperor Gojong's reign to reflect the rank and authority of the king and queen mother. As such, it can be considered another characteristic of Joseon Dynasty architecture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1014-1024
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• 2009

The cultural content industry can be stimulated by the production of content based on Korean traditional culture such as Korean court culture. At present, the use of royal costumes of various Korean dynasties for content creation is rare. Less than ten government-supported projects managed by the Korea Culture & Content Agency (KOCCA) are related with Korean royal costumes. Only a handful of tourism-related cultural products (e.g., souvenirs and theme parks) are related to this subject. Fortunately, there are many events that demonstrate traditional court ceremonies; however, there is a need for more investment in academic research to ensure accurate reproduction. There are a number of issue in utilizing traditional royal costumes to produce cultural content that include: a lack of understanding the importance of Korean royal costumes, discrepancies of the content produced based on the historical context, a lack of public knowledge or support, and the lack of the historical accuracy of reproduced content. In order to benefit the most from royal costumes, this article suggests recreating the costumes as a source for further content creation, the development of a database to store information by design features and itemized topics, along with the active support of the government.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.521-531
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• 2019

Uigwe Banchado are paintings of court events and royal ceremonies of the Joseon dynasty. The paintings record national events and ceremonial rituals performed by the Joseon royal family, such as marriages, celebrations, enthronements, processions to royal tombs, and archery ceremonies. This record provides a combination of information about the event's appearance, including preparation, procedure, people involved, reproductions worn by the participants, and the items used at that time. Through the realistic depictions painted in the Uigwe Banchado, in particular, one can grasp the scene of events at the time and reproduce the diverse attire worn by participants in the event. Based on 31 representative Uigwe Banchado, 550 knowledge nodes were written. These include 31 royal protocols, 41 attires, 136 clothes, 8 storage facilities, 120 objects, 55 people, 33 places and 83 concepts. The meaningful relationships between each node can be explored via a network graph. Digital illustrations of the 41 attires were created to aid in the understanding of Joseon dynasty royal ceremonial ritual attire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

In the Joseon Dynasty, a Court Ladies' full dress was Slanted by the Ming Dynasty. Since the Ming Dynasty had declined, a Court Ladies' full dress, Jeok-ui began to be made by the Joseon Dynasty. It was based on the Chinese Court Ladies' full dress, Desam, but it became Joseon's own style, which was different from the Chinese one. The formula of Jeok-ui was completed in the time of King Yongjo. Since then, Jeok-ui for big ceremonies was called Bub-bok. It was recorded on the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. The color of Jeok-ui was departmentalized for the wearer; red one for the Queen, bluish black one for the Crown Princess, and purple one for the Queen mother. There were some differences between Jeok-ui for feasts and for big ceremonies. In the case of Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, the pattern of Hyung-bae for the Queen was a dragon with five claws, and for the Crown Princess, a dragon with four claws. On the other hand, in the case of Jeok-ui for feasts, the pattern of Hyung-bae was phoenixes for the Queen, Crown Princess and the Queen mother. The number of embroidered round badges, which were attached to Jeok-ui, was 51 for big ceremonies, and 36 for feasts. The skirt for big ceremonies was a Jeonang-ut-chima with dragons pattern for the Queen, and phoenixes for the Crown Princess. The Queen's skirt for feasts was a Jeonang-ut-chima with phoenixes pattern, and the Queen mother's also. The Crown Princess' was a double skirt with phoenixes pattern. The pearls were not decorated on the shoes for big ceremonies, but shoes for feasts had six big pearls fer decoration. When the royal woman wore Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, it was prepared for Kyu, Pe-ok and belt with jade. But those were not necessary for Jeok-ui for feasts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.113-140
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• 1981

"Jung Ri Eui Kwae" is the book, illustrated and recorded with court coutesy and manners during the King, Jung Jo's honoured coming to his own father's royal tomb "Hyun Ryung Won" of Sa Do Seh Ja(The Crown Prince to be mourned) with his own mother Hae Kyung Koong Mrs. Hong. According to this book, we can see the costumes and its ornaments of the civil and military officials and also of Yu Ryung(the maden court musician) and Dong Ki (a young Kisaeng girl) during serving at Bong Soo Dang bangquet celebrating his own mother's 60th birthday anniversary. It is interesting to review once more the royal ceremonies representing the portion of the costumes and its ornaments in the 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, Yung-Jung Jo era that is to be thought the reform period in almost every field of social system.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.80-95
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• 2012

This study covers the literature of theoretical backgrounds of royal ceremonial hair styles during Chosun Dynasty and demonstrates reproduction works of those hair styles reinterpreted in modern methods. As for the Chosun royal hair styles for ceremonies, there are Daesoo, Gudoomi, and Euyoumi for a royal queen, royal concubines, and royal lady attendants of Nae Myung Boo, department of general affairs of the royal court. These hair styles represents well that Chosun Dynasty kept its own class symbols through hair styles, which is valuable cultural resources of Korean traditional beauties. This study compares the new reproduction works of Daesoo, Gudoomi, and Euyoumi with existing literature pieces and related photos for clear understanding of these traditional hair styles. This study aims to activate the relevant researches into Korean traditonal hair styles, their reproduction methods and applicable usages in Modern Korea as well as useful data for them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.63-93
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• 1998

This thesis focuses on how the dancing suit frequently used in the Korean royal court has been chronologically changed to that of the modern times. It also aims at how the implicit symbols shown in the royal court dancing suit are related to the traditional concepts and thoughts on Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural-Elements(Eum-Yang-Oh-Haeng). The results of this thesis are as follows. In the historical period of Koryo dynasty, the Buddhists religional ceremonies of YeonDueng-Hoi and PalGwan-Hoi favoured a ritual dancing of DangAakJeongJae originated from the old ancient China, and at the same time it also employed HyangAakJeongJae of Sin-la dynasty. Especially, the DangAakJeongJae contained the kinds of SooSeon-Dyo, Soo-YeonJang, PoTae-Aak, OhYa-ng-Seon, and YeonHwaDae-Mu; and the Hyang-AakJeongJae dealt with Moo-Go and Aa-Bak.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.10
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• pp.5-16
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• 1986

This dissertation is a study of the costume of the Yi dynasty by means of an investigation of the Ka-rae-do-gam-Eui-gue Do(嘉禮都監儀軌圖: a collection of paintings of the royal wedding ceremonies and processions issued by the royal court) and the Jung-ri Eui-gue Do(整理儀軌圖: a collection of a series of paintings showing the whole process of the royal courtesies and ceremonies on the occasion of the king's visit to Hyun-yoong Won in Hwa-sung in 1975年). The Yi dynasty period is roughly divided into two parts. The first period extends from 1392, in which the reign of the dynasty started, to 1600, when Imjin Waeran(the Japanese Invasion of Korea) ended; the second period lasts from 1600 to the last day of the dynasty in 1910. Of the "Eui-gue Do"(儀軌圖: paintings of the royal ceremonies) which were made in the first period of the dynasty, there is no extant example, the reference to which is found only in records. However, the examples of the "Eui-gue Do" belonging to the second period remain abundant in number, together with the detailed accounts about them. The followings are the conclusions deduced from this study, which tries to illuminate the pictorial characteristics as well as the traits of costume manifested in the above-mentioned two groups of paintings. Most of the costume seen in the Ka-rae-do-gam Eui-gue and the Jung-ri Eui-gue were not clad in accordance with the wearer's individual desire or taste, but in strict conformity with the norm and sense of order in the society based on the Cosfucian political and ethical principles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.19-33
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• 2008

Hair style of royal ladies in the 19th century according to the wedding record of King Heon-jong and Lady Sunhwagung is studied in this paper and summarized as follows: First, Saengmeori was a bridal hair style for the wedding night in Gyeonmagi(jacket) and Daeranchima(Skirt with gold trimming). It was a typical girls' hair style before the coming-of-age ceremony. It was composed of Saengmeoridari(wig), Seockunghwang, Jogduri(Coronet decorated with Jewellery), Saengdaeng-gi(hair ribbon) trimmed pearls, and jade disk trimmed pearls. Second, Garaemeori(double bun hair style) was the hair style with Wonsam when the chosen bride went to Byeol-Gung, a special palace for the bridal. It was composed of Gareachi(wig) and Cheopji(small wig) with the frontal hair ornament, jogduri, and Saidang-gi(hair ribbon). Third, Jojimmeori(single bun hair style) is a basic hair style for the madame. It was composed of jojimmeorichilbo, jogduri, jojimmeoridari(wig), and Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament. Fourth, Keunmeori is the second most important hair style for the court ceremony. It was composed of Eoyeomjogduri, Eoyeomdari(wig), Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament, Keunmeoridari(wig), and Keunmeorichilbo. Fifth, Susik, the most important hair style for the court ceremony, is the hair style for ceremonies including the day of becoming the formal queen, the first greeting day to the King's family. It was composed of 4 kinds of wigs and Susik-chilbo.