• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.101-118
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• 2003

This paper describes pop stars' fashion style by the changes of pop music from the 1950's of the formative Period of a rock-n-roll to the 1990's. The author could examine the features of pop music as follows : the 1950's rock-n-roll, the 1960's rock and Psychedelic rock. the 1970's punk rock, the 1980's new wave and the 1990's reggae·hip-hop. Based on the examination, the author could do sampling of the fashion style, on which current pop music had influence, by rock style, new wave style, and reggae hip-hop style. The rock style makes appearance again as a new style when it is recently accepted to be a fashion. The 1960's hippie, which contains long-cherished desire of antiwar and peace after September 11, 2001 Attack on America and the Afghan War. reappeared as luxurious hippie, and the hybrid punk has been made because barriers between cultures have been collapsed to mix items and combine contradicting components at fashion field. The new wave style destroys sex difference of clothes. and men's clothes style has introduced women's dress style, so that androgynous style, which has handsome boy image with womanlike hair style and makeup, and the lingerie style without distinction of underwear and outer garment has made appearance through new cloth wearing ways and overexposure. The reggae and hip-hop style makes appearance to overcome social strata, groups, ages, regions and gender, etc and become one of the 21s1 century culture codes. In conclusion, pop music have played very important roles until expansion and popularity of new fashion style, and has been quickly expanded by mass media development. When the pop music fashion styles are introduced to high fashion, fashion styles have become more polished and high-qualify to expand them at main fashion world again.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1156-1168
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• 2008

This study investigated the preceding studies and concept of Glam Rock style, modernistically reinterpreted its aesthetic function and symbolism and connected them to design. It analyzed according to the standards for classification the Glam Rock style appearing mainly in the collections from 2002 S/S to 2007 S/S and presented four pieces of design through the analysis. Its findings are synthesized as follows. First, unstructured design constitutes mule stressing gold cubic overall. It takes an unstable form by the placement of unshapely front ball of foot from transforming Chopin and a relatively poor heel. Second, over trimming constitutes separated pumps in the form of over trimming irregularly a piece of broken glass, metal and thumb tack. Third, Mix & Match combines Boot body of flexible knit material with an acrylic wedge sandal. Fourth, a platform sandal has the structure of color contrast between yellow and bronze in calf fur of tiger-skin pattern. I hope that this study will be developed by reflecting Glam Rock spirit and style as cultural phenomena through analyzing Glam Rock style and presenting design according to selected standards for classification, inferring plastic beauty of fashion shoes from them, investigating the change and feature of age-specific shoe design and making a new attempt possible.

• 기술사
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.54-65
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• 1985

Korean Landscape Garden may be described according to its stage of development. In the primitive agricultural era, the garden was preceded by vegetable yards and at this time rock arranging (Soo-Sok garden) was initiated together with the megalithis culture of dolmens, heavenly altars and tumuli. In the early Three Kingdom period palace gardens were built on a grand scale and toward the end of fourth century temple garden were introduced along with Buddhism. These gardens evolved to the flourishment of "HWAGE"(terraced gardens) rock arrangements of ZEN, early KOR-YO period. Especially since the middle of KOR-Yo period the "IM-CHUN"(forest and pond) garden became popular, while during Cho-Son period "HWAGE" in the back yard, pond and pool garden and "IM-CHUN" style country villa became fashionable. The Korea traditional Landscape garde may be characterized that first it is a nature Landscape style, which makes the maximum accomodation with the surrounding nature. Secondly, the Korean garden is built creatively by utilizing the elements of its climate and topography, Kogu-Ryo, Paik-Je great-Kaya and Sil-Ra had developed original a castle town plans and beautiful gardens rock arrangements which precede the equivalent style of China and set the prototype for Japan. The Landscape art of waterfalls and rock arrangements at An-Ap-Chi garden of 7th century has no equals in China and set the origin of pond style of Japanese garden.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.1-25
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• 2023

Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs are relatively well preserved among Sassanid relics. They are considered concrete and empirically important materials for studying Sassanian culture. In these rock reliefs, inauguration of various kings and hunting scenes are depicted. Thus, kings' attire and life of the court could be discerned according to eras. The purpose of this study was to investigate Sassanian clothing styles of various social positions by analyzing their clothing depicted in rock reliefs and to improve comprehension of the culture of the Sassanian Dynasty. Methodically, literature studies and artifacts were analyzed in parallel. Data of these two insources were consolidated for comparison. Results of this study are as follows. Since the Sassanian Dynasty succeeded the Parthian Dynasty, the Parthian style of clothing pieces such as tunic and trousers appeared in their attire. Basic types of tunics and trousers did not vary according to social status or age. However, details showed differences in those aspects. In the early Sassanian Dynasty, the dressing style of Rome was adopted. Styles of tunic and trousers featured draperies with many wrinkles and shoes were worn instead of boots. Trousers were tied with laces at ankles and laces were decorated with round clasps, imitating the style used by Kushan kings to the east of Sasanians. External cultural elements were also present in costumes of the Sassanian Dynasty, which played a bridging role for cultural exchanges between Eastern and Western civilizations at the gateway of the Silk Road.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.877-887
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• 2011

The purpose of Sassanian dynasty was to succeed the civilization of Achaemenid dynasty but it shows vestiges of Parthian civilization in many ways. This study is an attempt to take a look at Sassanian civilization through analyzing these rock reliefs since these features are shown on the rock relief of Ardashir I in early Sassanian Iran. The way carried out this study was first, to collect and search documentary data to establish the theoretical background, and collect positive data by exploring this region and then we comparatively analyzed the two data in general and the result is the following: The form of costume is different according to the person's status. In the early period of Ardashir I the costume style of the royals is reflected by clothes such as tunic, trousers in parthian style. However, trousers do not have vertical pleats which are commonly shown in the case of parthian trousers. It assumed that after the early period of Ardashir I, Sassanians formed their own styles. The form of cap is also different according to the person's status. Ardashir I and the Ahura mazda god put on crown and Korymbos which symbolized the sovereign power. Except the king and the god, the prince and the king's vassal put on high caps called Kolah. Diadem which symbolized sovereign power of king was used by the king, the god and the crown prince. There are two kinds of diadem. The first form has vertical pleats and the other does not have pleats. This form became different depending on the social position. The form of hairstyle is generally thick curly hair which goes down until the shoulder. There is no difference in their hairstyle in terms of the social position. The beard style is generally in the form of scoop. There is also no difference in terms of the person's status.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.