• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.561-574
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• 2009

Black has been the most important color of all since the ancient times when the recognition of black roused, as well as during most of the eras; and can especially be said as the main color which controlled the chronicles of fashion. The purpose of the study was to broaden the application of black color image make-up by inquiring into make-up design elemental characteristics of lines and textures, after classifying magazine illustrations and advertisement make-up images using black. The photos which made effective use of black among fashion illustrations, magazine advertisements after 2001 were classified in to each type, and make-up expression method and characteristics according to design element of each image type was analyzed. The conclusion of such study was the following. 'Erotic image' showed contrast effect between eye make-up and lip color by using pale tone or red color. 'Mannish image' emphasized form and texture of eyebrow by restraining the colors of eyelids with natural brown tone eye make-up; 'Modern image' expressed vague eyebrow to bring the sensation of the direction of eye shadow on eyelids and eye line as well as slant line to relief. 'Kitsch image' showed free and light imagery by creating unique hair style with various colors; expressing lips mostly with colors similar to skin tone or by restraining colors on lips. 'Decadence image' showed messy and foul sensation with unstandardized eye make-up and matt skin of shimmer, glossy and pale tone, also with black colored lips; 'Retro image' expressed reinterpretation of images from 1920${\sim}$1960 to contemporary styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.147-159
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• 2013

This study aims at developing and producing the creative design of a lingerie look after reviewing the aesthetic value about lingerie look featured in John Galliano's works. As for the research method, the selection process from the works was followed together with literature review for empirical analysis over lingerie looks, where 2,764 pieces in total were reviewed from Galliano's Pret-a-Porter collections covering from 2001S/S until 2010F/W and Christian Dior's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter collections that he is in charge of as head designer and 291 pieces were finally singled out that show the lingerie look image well. Then, the formative expression was examined about those looks and the characteristics were induced from them. Formativeness expressed in Galliano's lingerie look, in term of lingerie style, was categorized as erotic, retro, and deconstructive. The glittering and smooth material like silk and satin, and the visible material like lace and chiffon were mainly used for material rather than foreign material. By doing so, the romantic and erotic image was highlighted. In the production method, it was grouped into transposition of wear, direct and indirect exposition, and deconstructive way. These aesthetic characteristics introduced by formative expression appeared in the form of eroticism, play, and deconstructiveness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.13-31
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative style and aesthetic value of contemporary subcultural style with the understanding of characteristics of subcultural style in the sociocultural context. As for the research methodology, literary survey has been performed to study the concept and the history of subcultural styles from 1940s to 1980s. In addition, demonstrative studies on aesthetic images have been carried out through the analysis of pictures and photographs in order to categorize the subcultural styles since 1990s. In this study, subcultural styles since 1990s have been illustrated through the socio-cultural grounds. which are diversity of street culture, diffusion of moss culture or bubble-up phenomenon, pursuit of anti-social ideology among intellectual heads, club Cultures in the form of kitsch and pastiche and communal thinking as collective harmony. With the socio-cultural context examined above, subcultural styles in the contemporary fashion are categorized and deduced following aesthetic values ; Drag and Club style as the tendency of surrealists or artificial hedonists, Urban military style and Cyberpunks as pursuit of Bionic being, Sports casual style based upon, the pursuit of comfort and freedom, Vintage style and Retro dressing represented by the spirit of DIY (no It Yourself), Ecology style of New conservatives, and Mysticism style as the fusion of technology and shamanism (Technoshamanism).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1254-1264
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to suggest a direction for golfwear design targeting young female golfers, based on the analysis of their preference of recent sportswear trend. Total 197 respondents, female golfers, were sampled for data gathering, who were asked to answer to the self-report questionnaire with the stimuli of five trendy golfwear styles [i.e., representing recent sportswear trend]. In summary, the results of this study were as follows: 1) The female golfers showed significant difference in their preference of recent sportswear-trend sues, according to their age or marital status. 2) Among the five trendy styles, each of which corresponded to five themes in 2002 S/S sportswear trend, the style of "Retro Chic", a type of retrospective trend theme, was most favored. 3) The female golfers in their twenties residing in Kangnam, were found to have ① relatively higher fashion leadership, and ② higher preference of maximal and kitsch trends, when compared with the rest of the respondents. 4) The most influential design elements in each trendy style, dominating the golfers' preference, varied with the feature of trend themes. 5) Based on the analysis of the young female golfers′ preferences of recent sportswear trend, a direction for golfwear design were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1554-1561
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• 2005

This study aims to analyze modern hairstyle and fashion in the collections in the late 1990s, based on the concepts and characteristics of Minimalism, a buzzword of the art field in the 1960s. This study used qualitative research method, in other words, presenting an analysis framework by studying domestic and foreign books and dissertations on Minimalism and then applying the Internet or visual image to the analysis framework. The result indicates that Minimalism design in modem hairstyle and fashion has four characteristics: simplicity, unity, repetition and spatiality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.429-445
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to provide ideas for the development of bag design by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe given the newtro trend pursuing analog sensitivity in modern society. The methods and scope of this study are as follows. First, the related literature and internet data were reviewed in order to examine the expression types and characteristics of the bags of the West and East. Next, the definition and characteristics of tassel and fringe decoration in terms of the history of clothing were analyzed. Finally, the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of tassels and fringe were derived through the analysis of modern bag design shown in the fashion collections since 2010. The bags decorated with the tassels and fringe bring a variety of visual effects depending on the attachment position, direction and material composition, concentrating the gaze and radiating original style. In this study, the expression of tassels and fringe in modern bag design was classified into three types: surface decoration, shape variability, and object combination. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe as decorative elements appeared through the mixture of heterogeneous materials and playfulness through imagination, exaggeration through extension of length and volume, and retro characteristics through reinterpretation of tradition. This study is expected to contribute to creative ideas of modern bag design which requires a global sense, which has been used in various cultures for a long time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.