• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.873-887
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• 2010

Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China, established a ceremonial uniform system based on ancient styles in 1914 just before the national polity was changed to the Empire of China in 1915. This system is Jisiguanfuzhi (a system on costumes for memorial services), and figures included in the system are Jisiguanfutu (figures showing costumes for memorial services). This study is the first to examine Jisiguanfuzhi and Jisiguanfutu and to approach the background idea of the establishment of the system with a focus on the meaning of 'unity.' Jisiguanfuzhi regulates the ceremonial uniform system of all classes from the President along with the 1st-class to the 5th-class people. The uniform consists of a crown, robe, belt, the mid-section cloth, and boots. In addition, the uniforms of ritual musicians and dancers are included. The basic principles in establishing the system were the restoration of ancient systems, the adoption of convenience, the acceptance of current practices, and the implication of symbolism. Jisiguanfuzhi clarifies that the pattern of the ceremonial uniforms was modeled on Juebianfu, for religious services. The reason for choosing Juebianfu for religious services was to achieve 'unity' and Juebianfu was associated with 'unity' because it was common to all, from the emperor to the gentlemen class, in ancient times. Yuan Shi Kai tried to show flexibility to the gentlemen class who represented the intellectuals at that time by adopting Juebianfu for religious services, fearing that the gentlemen class might oppose the attempt to restore the imperial system. Therefore, although Jisiguanfuzhi adopted mostly Mianfu and royal sacrificial robes, it also emphasized 'unity' by professing that the uniforms were based on Juebianfu for religious services.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.402-415
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research the ideologies of African-American hair-styles according to cultural phenomena. This is a qualitative research using the books and theses about society, culture, hair and beauty, and materials of internet. The results are; Firstly, African-Americans are citizens or residents of the United States who have origins in any of the black populations of Africa. About 75 percent of the dark-skinned people on this continent have hair labeled "kinky". Secondly, African hair-styles expressed Supernaturalism and Traditionalism in the formative period of African culture. African-American hair-styles reflected Colonialism in the period of slaves. African-American citizen's hair-styles showed Nationalism after 1960s' Black Pride Movement in the period of settlement in America, and expressed De-territorialism since the boom of 1970s' Reggae. Today, the wearing of dreadlocks, cornrows, and afros has transcended racial and religious barriers. No longer necessarily reflections of ancient traditions and cultural identification, they are just as often fashion items.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.111-134
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• 1997

The purpose of this paper is to examine into the cross-dressing. Cross-dressing means 'dress-ing in clothes of the opposite sex' which has increased under the contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereo-types and give rise to the cultural insecurities in the contemporary conditions,. In this paper the author classified cross-dressing with the oppositional cross-dressing the perverted cross-dressing and the custom-ary cross-dressing. And the results are as follows 1. The oppositional cross-dressing has increased under the influence of feminism movements homosexual identities and subcul-tural identities. 2. The perverted cross-dressing has ap-peared in various social cultural contexts that is in the regional theratrical and the religious habits. Cross-dressers have used the clothes as an instrument for which the solve the contradic-tion between sex and gender role. And through the cross-dressing phenomena we can find all the category crises which are related with sex and gender but simultaneously we can search for all the possibilities through the open thought.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.12-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the mental, social and aesthetic facets contained in ancient shining costumes and to find out the internal meaning of ancient shining costumes that they wished to express. This study was based on the theoretical data regarding the materials, types, and characteristics of the shining costumes. Egypt, Rome, Greece and several Mesopotamian countries have been included as a scope of research. The literature examination skill was applied for the research. The internal meaning of ancient shining costumes could be understood as an instrument of expression regarding religion, social status and beauty.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.69-82
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• 2003

The Scythians had a veritable passion for adornment, delighting in decorating themselves no less than their horses and belongings. Their love of jewellery was expressed at every turn. The most magnificent pieces naturally come from the royal tombs. In the area of the neck and chest the Scythian had a massive gold Torques, a symbol of power, made of gold, turquoise, cornelian coral and even amber. The entire surface of the torque, like that of many of the other artefacts, is decorated with depictions of animals. Scythian Torques are worn with the decorative terminals to the front. It was put a Torque on, grasped both terminals and placed the opening at the back of the neck. It is possible the Torque signified its wearer's religious leadership responsibilities. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.83-91
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• 1993

Signifying clothes can be defined as a process in which a clothes obtains a symbolic meaning by confining its use and purpose. In this paper we catagorize the process of signifying clothes that appears in the Byongkut as follows : first removing the clothes, secondly putting on the clothes, and thirdly burning off the clothes. Removing the clothes is a process of dramatic realization and clearly shows proven facts about the things that will occur in the process. Putting on the clothes is a process of falsified expression in which the interest is transferred from the person who wears the clothes to the clothes itself by the shaman's insinuation who leads an interpretation about the clothes. Buring off the clothes is a pro-cess of mystification in which the end of Byongkut is sublimated mistiriously by making the partici-pants believe with the burning that the clothes and the diseases have been curred, and therefore, the ritual is kept from spoiling. The clothes used in Byongkut that religious belief and belief system are expressed through behavior style, and that supernatural power is designed to reveal is related with the various aspects of symbolic life indicated by the clothes.

• 복식
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• 제59권7호
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• pp.34-49
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• 2009

Carnival is an allowed chance to express ordinarily suppressed and overlooked emotions. Especially with strong meaning of daily overthrow masks, masquerades, and mask-costumes are essential for expressing methods and festival personality reasons. Carnival in modern society without losing a significant portion religion in a format suitable for the era of secularization and the transformation has been created of nothing, that is not a reflection of society is also a cultural phenomenon of its own internal social and external conditions through a variety of means can analogy cultural phenomenon is a stage. The purpose of this research comes from the carnival festivities, religious background, but the daily routine of life to know who joined his escape with the conduction of the role, going to enjoy the satire and humor, using the Dress to the eruption, which means that the form of the festival variety of analysis and with the victory of the expression of cultural phenomena and features on the festival and the dress for you should you wish to study.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.392-402
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• 2012

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.