• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.135-149
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• 2014

This study attempts to adapt and develop Korean prehistoric petroglyphs into textile design for children. For this purpose, literature review was conducted to understand the plasticity and symbolism expressed in Korean prehistoric petroglyphs. Also this study conducted textile design development as follows: First, the figures and faces in petroglyphs were selected because children can easily recognize them. Second, two groups of different ages (7-9 and 10-13) were allowed to freely draw the selected motifs. Third, some of the motifs created by the children were selected that show children's individuality and also keep the features of the original motifs. The children's motifs were developed into textile design using Texpro and Photoshop. Then digital textile printing and 3D mapping program were used to make pajamas (5 types), umbrellas (3 types), and simulate bedding sets (2 types) for children. This research's results are as follows: First, petroglyphs are symbolic language of human's oldest art form, and related to religious and mythical belief. Korean petroglyphs have plasticity showing the development steps in technique and expression, with various shapes such as animals, human figures, faces, masks and abstract figures. Third, children showed their interests in various human figures and faces of the petroglyphs, and it was easy to draw those motifs in their own way. Fourth, 10 design motifs were selected from the children's work and used to create textiles considering materials and colors for children. Total 10 items were made and presented. This study confirmed the usefulness of applying prehistoric petroglyphs to children's textiles designs. These designs may grow as a kind of cultural product for children who know about and like petroglyphs. They can be a niche market items too, made to order for children with individuality and who favor originality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.544-561
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• 2020

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.99-114
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• 2017

The uniqueness of Bali is inseparable from its culture and religion. Embedded in the cultural environment, textiles become one of the most important aspects in Balinese life as it is used as a medium in sacred ceremonies. Balinese textiles are made and used under special conditions according to Hindu teaching. This paper aims to observe the aesthetics of Balinese sacred cloths that are seen in their techniques, colors, and patterns. Quantitative research included in this study is based on 261 images taken from literature review and Museums. Field research was done in eastern part of Bali. This paper has divided the era between ancient and modern times. The ancient era before the 20th century used textiles for religious purposes. Modern era started from the colonialization period by the Dutch in Bali during 1910-1942 added economic values to the textiles. The independence of Indonesia in 1945 created Balinese textiles as a unifying value as one of the identity of Indonesia. The techniques are classified as Weft Ikat, Double Ikat, weave with Supplementary Weft, and Prada. The colors of the ancient era are 'fixed' with the restriction of the colors red, black, and white. The colors of modern era are 'festive' with combination of yellow, green, blue, and purple. The characteristics of patterns are geometric, natural, human, and animal groups. Field research in this paper observes Klungkung Village that produces Endek and Songket cloths. The aesthetics of Endek cloth is 'royal statement' and Songket cloth is a 'cultural heritage.' Nusa Penida Island produces Cepuk cloths and is a 'protective guardian.' Satria sub-district produces Prada cloths and appears to be an 'opulence charm.' Lastly, Tenganan Village produces Geringsing cloth which possesses a 'legendary legacy.' To sum up, Balinese sacred cloth essence is a balance of tradition and modern.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.131-142
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• 2000

The philological consideration of Korean Buddhist Monk's robe and its reviving have been investigated in traditional way. The configuration and colour of Korean Buddhist monk's robes have been properly adapted for an period, territory, and atmospheric phenomena. In case of Korea, introduced Buddhism from China realize modern robe from under the influence of fusion of Chinese ornament culture and Korean traditional ornament culture. As a result of this modern robe has been consisted of a Buddhist monk's robe and a cope. The modem robes has been significantly affected by industrialization, contrary to ancient time taxed robes as public imposts. At present be familiar in mass production we have a preference for the easier way in making and even color forming. In this paper it is focused on dyeing part, which recognized its important in latest time, at first declined according to appearance of chemical dye, evaluated its convenience in use. That is, it is increased natural dye, people begin with recognition of difference of physical properties for dress dyed with chemical pigment and that with natural pigment. In consequence, I have presented that both making colour of gray using traditional method, and three demolished-color prescribed by Buddhist law. Of course, though it become generally know that dyeing of robes occupied significant part of traditional natural dyeing. But in case of religion, it also is important to know symbolical meaning involved in its colour. Most of Buddhism-believers or even Buddhists who actually be dress in robe are without knowing the meaning of colour, or its revealing method. There, I have considered mating three colour of demolished- color included blue, black, and red, and also represented dyeing method of Buddhist monk's robe using both charcoal and ink-spick. From religious font of view, as robes contains involving of blessing, I have an intention of improvement way in dyeing and succession and development of traditional culture through consideration of traditional dyeing method. And I have also intended to restoration the value of robe's colour, disappeared by the time. moreover, I have shown that dyeing with natural pigment is profitable for both environment and sanitary aspect.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2002

Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.17-32
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• 2008

This study focuses on the analysis of Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective which has established a theoretical basis on research of the critical reviews' salon exhibitions as written by Baudelaire. Charles Pierre Baudelaire(1821-1867) having lived during the latter part of Neo-classicism and the era of Romanticism and Impressionism, Baudelaire displayed opposition to customary realities such as social ideology or religious authority that suppressed human nature. Also he pioneered a new genre known as art criticism and wrote much that provided important insights on the essential elements of artistic work, modernity and trend, as well as art definition and art categories. The aesthetic perspective and creative spirit were formed by Baudelaire, during his age were also reconfirmed in the successive ages of modernism and postmodernism. As such, this study sheds light on how Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective was not only temporarily assertion but it is consistently applied to modern art and fashion area. What is more important that, Baudelaire admired new artificial beauty that is created by the human soul liberated from natural instincts or desires. Especially, informed by strangeness and distinctiveness, Baudelaire's view of fashion ran along the same vein as his view of art, and these views form the basis of that creative spirit which situated western fashion on a center of the world. In conclusion, the research on Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective will reaffirm a firm awareness of the creative spirit essential to globally-oriented creative artists and designers who work within the circumstance of the 21st century, a time when the paving of new aesthetic paths is necessary. The research also offers a clear understanding of the aesthetic values demanded by this age.

• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.114-131
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• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.

• 감성과학
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2019

Tibet has a long history and many traditions that feature colorful costumes. This study analyzes the similarities and differences in the use of multicolored stripes in the Korean Saekdong (색동: stripes of many colors) and Tibetan folk costumes. The analyses were done within the framework of Tibet's cultural and religious background and the characteristics of the region's traditional costumes. For this study, literature and photographs from books and the Internet that record the history of Tibet's traditional costumes were analyzed. The results show that the use of various colorful stripes was common in the Bangjeon (帮典) apron, one of the greatest costumes in Tibetan history. A Bangjeon is made of wool of multiple colors and has horizontal lines as compared with the silk Saekdong's vertical lines. In addition, they have a multicolored striped band on the sleeves which reminds one of the traditional Korean jacket with its Saekdong sleeves. However, these multicolored stripes appear in more parts of the Saekdong (such as the hemline and front collar) when compared with contemporary Korean costumes. Moreover, the multicolored bands are noticeable in several ornaments from the time, which suggests that Tibetans and Koreans were very fond of using multicolored stripes. Costumes from the Goguryeo (高句麗) dynasty indicate that Tibetans, like the Mongols and Manchus, were very similar to Koreans as they had multicolored garments and Paji pants in common.