• Title/Summary/Keyword: Raw silk

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Silk and Cotton Textiles, the Principal Maritime Trade Commodities of Ancient India

  • DAYALAN, Duraiswamy
    • Acta Via Serica
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.91-116
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    • 2021
  • India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

Dissolution of Antheraea pernyi raw silk with calcium nitrate ethanol solution (Calcium Nitrate/에탄올 혼합 용액에 의한 작잠견사(繭絲)의 용해)

  • Lee, Kwang-Gill;Jo, You-Young;Yeo, Joo-Hong;Lee, Heui-Sam;Kim, Kee-Young;Park, Kwang-Young;Kweon, HaeYong
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.51 no.1
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    • pp.15-19
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    • 2013
  • Antheraea pernyi silkworm is one of typical wild silkworms, which spins a tawny color cocoon. The cocoon has been used as a resource for textile material due to strong chemical stability and good mechanical properties. In this study, to increase the solubility efficiency of A. pernyi silk fibroin, the composition of dissolution solvent were examined. Calcium chloride tertiary system, normally used for dissolution of Bombyx mori silk fibroin, does not act on A. pernyi silk fibroin. Calcium nitrate system dissolves A. pernyi silk fibroin, and calcium nitrate ethanol system do more easily than calcium nitrate system. Amino acid composition of A. pernyi silk fibroin obtained after dissolution is mainly composed of alanine, glycine, and serine. A. pernyi silk fibroin would be used for non-textile applications near future.

The Degumming and Sericin Recovery of the Silk fabric Using the Electrolytic Water (전해수를 이용한 견섬유 정련 및 세리신 회수 (I))

  • 배기서;하헌주;박광수
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.249-258
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    • 2002
  • Natural silk is formed by two proteins : the crystalline fibroin (inside the silk thread) and amorphous sericin (as a tube outside the thread). The degumming process is used to eliminate the external sericin prior to dyeing ; generally it makes use of soaps at about pH 10. Sericin is the protein constituent that "gums"together the fibroin filaments of cocoon silk. It constitutes about 25% of the weight of the cocoon, is soluble in hot water and "gels" on cooling. The removal of sericin from raw silk, known as degumming, is a simple but important process usually employing hot dilute soap or alkaline solution and occasionally dilute acids or enzymic methods. During degumming, alkali is taken up by the sericin and the free acid from the soap is formed ; this may be deposited on the fiber, reducing the rate of degumming and protecting it from hydrolysis. Alkali is often added to maintain or restore the pH of the baths, but it is rarely used alone, since it leaves the silk rather harsh in handle. If complete sericin removal is required as for printing, sodium carbonate may be added. If the pH of the bath exceeds 11, the fibroin is attacked. Recently, According to the development of electrolysis, we can be obtained the electrolytic reduction water(above pH 11.5) and electrolytic oxidation water (below pH 3). The aim of this work was to study a degumming process using electrolytic water and a possibility of sericin recovery. The new degumming process used electrolytic water operates at $95^\circ{C}$ for 2hr. without any reagents. The wastewater of this process are formed by a solution of sericin in water. This conditions suggest the study of a possible recovery of this protein (sericin) which has an amino acid composition suitable for many used in cosmetics, textile finishing agents, animal feeding, etc. The degumming process using electrolytic water is available to reduce treatment costs and pollute and at the same time to recover sericin.

Study on the Tussah Silk Reeling Method (작잠견제사에 관한 연구 (제4보))

  • 박병희
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.5
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    • pp.63-66
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    • 1965
  • This experimental work is aimed to find out if there is a reasonable tussah silk reeling service. The results obtained are as follows, 1) The best silk reeling rate of tussah cocoon was 8.02% by dupion reeling machine, 7.44% by common with Autumn cocoons, and 7.23% by dupion machine, 6.79% by common with Spring. Those results are sup-erior to 6.00% of the former. 2) The cocoon grading ratio was 63∼68% with Autumn cocoons md 66∼70% with Spring. Spring cocoons showved more 2∼3% than Autumn in cocoon grading ratio. These seem to be resulted from the weather condition. 3) The reeling efficiency was 70g per labor for an hour. 4) The strength of tussah silk war 3g/d and elongation 26% The strength of tussah silk is weaker, and the elongation of it larger than those of raw silk. 5) As these results, the enterprise of the tussah silk reeling has become possible, and will develop as a new industry. Therefore. it is demanded that this new industry will be helped by the Government to get foreign money.

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Studies on Silk Textile Wash and Wear Finishing (絹織物 Wash and Wear 加工硏究)

  • Choe, Byong-Hee;Lee, Yang-Hoo
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.47-55
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    • 1981
  • Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

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Breeding of a New Silkworm Variety, Chugangjam, with a Sex-Limited Larval Marking and High Silk Yielding for Summer-Autumn Rearing Season

  • Kang, Pil-Don;Sohn, Bong-Hee;Lee, Sang-Uk;Woo, Soon-Ok;Hong, Sung-Jin
    • International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.57-61
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    • 2003
  • A new silkworm variety, Chugangjam, with a sex-limited larval marking and high silk yielding for summer-autumn rearing season is $F_1$ hybrid between Jam 147, a Japanese race bred from P8503/8453, and Jam 148, a Chinese race from M8306/Jam 130. Jam 147, Japanese parent of the Chugangjam showed a high GCA (general combining ability) in pupation percentage and Jam 148, Chinese parent, showed a high GCA in pupation percentage and single cocoon weight. In the local adaptability test performed at 8 local areas in autumn of 2001, Chugangjam was 5% higher in cocoon yield and 8% in raw silk productivity in the 10,000 of the 3rd molted larvae, respectively, than the check variety Daesungjam.

Mechanical Property and Cell Compatibility of Silk/PLGA Hybrid Scaffold; In Vitro Study (실크/PLGA 하이브리드 지지체의 기계적 물성과 세포친화력; in vitro 연구)

  • Song, Yi-Seul;Yoo, Han-Na;Eum, Shin;Kim, On-You;Yoo, Suk-Chul;Kim, Hyung-Eun;Lee, Dong-Won;Khang, Gil-Son
    • Polymer(Korea)
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    • v.35 no.3
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    • pp.189-195
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    • 2011
  • The design of new bioactive scaffolds offering physiologic environment for tissue formation is an important frontier in biomaterials research. In this study, we performed compressive strength, water-uptake ability, and SEM analysis for physical property assessment of 3-D silk/PLGA scaffold, and investigated the adhesion, proliferation, phenotype maintenance, and inflammatory responses of RAW 264.7 and NIH/3T3 for cell compatibility. Scaffolds were prepared by the solvent casting/salt leaching method and their compressive strength and water-uptake ability were excellent at 20 wt% silk content. Result of cell compatibility assay showed that inflammatory responses distinctly decreased, and initial adhesion and proliferation were maximized at 20 wt% silk content. In conclusion, we suggest that silk/PLGA scaffolds may be useful to tissue engineering applications.

Urea Resin Treat Effects on Silk Textiles (요소수지를 주체로 한 편직물구조 개선연구)

  • 최병희;이양후;김한수
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.15-23
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    • 1978
  • This studies have been carried out for several years to develop more better urea resin treating process on silk textiles which may be better crease resist without harming on the textile touch feeling. Specially, this paper payed attention to minimize the necessary formaldehyde content to be condensed with urea and created a new processing method which is named as Homo Metalic Urea Resin found to be better than urea resin process. The obtained results are as followings. 1. The prepared urea resin was found to be smell-less because of minimized formaldehyde content is the least than any other reports carried out before than this. 2. A new type of urea resin has been created by using uric 2incchloride and formaldehyde which is named as Homo Metalic Urea Resin. This processing method may carry both weighing process and urea resin process. 3. Crease resistance, stiffness and bulkiness were increased through such resin treats. Homo metalic urea resin process showed better results than the urea resin process. 4. Spun silk or low twisted silk have shown better crease resistance than raw silk or high twisted silk upon the both resin treats. 5. Both treat methods were found to be good economical feasibility upon the silk finishing process. 6. Tenacity and elongation of silk fibers were found to decrease some what because of grafting or weighing results. 7. Wooly silk has been also created with specific urea resin process. Such silk could be obtained by formaldehyde gas treat with urea soaken silk in a chamber, which induced to form scale on the surface of silk fibers.

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Effect of Reeling Velocity and Temperature on the Automatic Silk Reeling Process (조사속도 및 조사탕온도의 고저가 자동조사성적에 미치는 영향)

  • 최병희;송기언;이인전
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • no.11
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    • pp.69-72
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    • 1970
  • The purpose of this study is to find out reasonable automatic silk reeling method of the domestic cocoons Jar the improvement of its reeling ability. The results obtained are as follows: 1. The silk yield and the reelability percentage decreased according to increase of the reeling velocity and decrease of the reeling temperature. 2. The reeling tension increased according to increase of the reeling velocity and decrease of the reeling temperature. 3. The reeling accidance increased according to i I1crease of the reeling velocity and temperature. 4. In case of the automatic silk reeling with fixed denier system, the reeling velocity (90∼120m/min) md temperature (35∼45$^{\circ}C$) had no influence on the raw silk qualities. 5. As a conclusion, the reasonable reeling velocity is 3bout 120m per minutes and the bath temperature is about 40$^{\circ}C$ in the automatic silk reeling of the domestic cocoons.

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A Study on Three-dimensional Effects and Deformation of Textile Fabrics: Dynamic Deformations of Silk Fabrics

  • Kim, Minjin;Kim, Jongjun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.17 no.6
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    • pp.28-43
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    • 2013
  • Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.