• 영미문화
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.269-286
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• 2014

The Pre-Raphaelite oeuvre abounds in the image of women, which indicates the impact of gender question on contemporary visual culture. The representation of women in their art tends to evince the entrenched myth of womanhood, marked by a stereotyped dichotomy in the apprehension of femininity. Yet there are a significant number of pictures which attest to the point that their iconography of womanhood cannot be fully elucidated by exploring the dichotomy alone. They falsify the dyadic model, defying the attempt to accommodate them in a clean-cut category. The curious blend of the mystical, the sensual, and the domestic that characterizes these images suggests that they are open to multiple interpretations. In sum, the Pre-Raphaelite representation of women both endorses and challenges the ideal of femininity, indicating that it was shaped by and shaped contemporary perceptions of women at a time when gender relations were shifting and the traditional institution of patriarchy revealed a sign of strain.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제20권
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• pp.161-171
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• 1997

유미 운동은 산업화에 대한 반발하며 디자인의 질을 고양시켜 삶의 질을 향상시키자는 미적 운동이었다. 유미 운동은 대중에게 미적 감각을 심어주어 대중의 생활의 질을 개선하고 따라서, 디자인의 질을 개선하며 예술을 위한 예술을 추구하는 운동이었다. 이러한 유미 운동의 밑거름이 되는 유미주의는 총체적인 미적 개념을 강조하였으며, 이러한 미적 개념은 텍 스타일 디자인 운동에 새로운 활기를 불어넣어 주었다. 본 논문은 기계생산이 불러일으킨 빅토리아 사회를 정화시키고 미적 감각을 전하는 유미주의에 대한 연구를 통하여 유미주의 이 텍 스타일을 디자인에 미친 영향을 연구하고자 한다. 본 연구를 통한 유미주의가 텍 스타일 디자인에 미친 영향은 다음과 같이 분석된다 : 첫째로, 일본예술의 영향으로 텍 스타일 디자인을 2차원적으로 접근하도록 유도하여 단순하고 담대한 성격의 디자인으로 이끌었다. 둘째로, 라파엘 전파의 운동의 영향으로 텍 스타일 디자인의 색채는 연한 색조를 띠게 되었다. 셋째로, 모리스의 자연을 영감으로 한 창의적인 디자인이 성공적인 경지에 오르면서 디자인의 질이 향상되는데 이바지하게 되었다. 넷째로, 유미 운동의 절대적인 영향을 받은 리버티 회사의 창의적인 디자인은 미적 추구를 위함과 동시에 디자인의 질을 향상시키려는 모리스, 고드 윈, 루이스 데이 등의 노력에 합세하여 궁극적으로 창의적인 현대의 영국의 텍 스타일 디자인을 이룩하는데 지대한 공헌을 하였다.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• 영미문화
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.83-103
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• 2013

This paper focuses on the function of suicidal images in the history of art including literature. Death has been romanticized or repoliticized into an existential act of defiance and rebellion in literary works, so questions remain about the correlation between literary suicide and the essence of suicide. Although Jacques Ranciere insists that the order of art contrasts with the order of common people whose acts and gestures can express either their specific purposes nor the rationalities of their frustration, literary suicide reflects the outside life of readers. In fact, images of suicide produces the order of things about the real world. William Shakespeare's Hamlet handled two oppositional self-murder significantly. As Ron M. Brown pointed out, Hamlet, by choosing confrontation, seeks out an end which is voluntary, thus he avoids self-destruction and feels triumph of heroic fashion. Ophelia's self-chosen death stems from loss, frailty and the disintegration of reason, which demeans the act and diminishes her from the tragic to the pathetic(16). In the $19^{th}$ century, the resurrection of Ophelia acted as the context for later periods where life itself is fictionalized from the differing periods of network of signifier and texts. Finally, in Ophelia's case, fiction became life(Brown 285). Her suicidal image was fixed in the Victorian Culture whose visual discourse was strikingly similar to that of the men. Likewise, the ambiguities of the suicide became intertwined with the social, cultural issues of a certain period, and the paradigm of suicide was conformed to the changing needs of successive generations. However, if literary art understands that a European culture grappled with the almost impossible task and coming to terms with this strangest and most persistent of phenomena, it will be able to focus on of the multi-layered suicide by recognizing the inherent instability of the verbal sign which cannot reveal the design and grammar of truth.