• English & American cultural studies
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.269-286
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• 2014

The Pre-Raphaelite oeuvre abounds in the image of women, which indicates the impact of gender question on contemporary visual culture. The representation of women in their art tends to evince the entrenched myth of womanhood, marked by a stereotyped dichotomy in the apprehension of femininity. Yet there are a significant number of pictures which attest to the point that their iconography of womanhood cannot be fully elucidated by exploring the dichotomy alone. They falsify the dyadic model, defying the attempt to accommodate them in a clean-cut category. The curious blend of the mystical, the sensual, and the domestic that characterizes these images suggests that they are open to multiple interpretations. In sum, the Pre-Raphaelite representation of women both endorses and challenges the ideal of femininity, indicating that it was shaped by and shaped contemporary perceptions of women at a time when gender relations were shifting and the traditional institution of patriarchy revealed a sign of strain.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20
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• pp.161-171
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• 1997

Aesthetic Movement is an artistic movement which intended to bring up the quality by implanting beauty in everyday life. Aesthetic movement made the beauty itself come alive within each person and thus made it possible to improve the quality of life. Aesthetic Movement emphasized the total artistic concept and this brought new wave to the textile design movement. This paper is the study on the Aesthetisism and the effect that had on the textile design. This study draws the conclusion that there are four areas the textile designs of that era was influcenced by : Firstly , through the influence of the Japanese art, the textile designs came to have 2 dimensional quality. Secondly, through the influence of the pre Raphaelite, colors in the textile designs changed to have pale tones. Thirdly, with the influence of William Morris, the creativity in textile design came to be alive. Forthly, to better the quality of life and design, the cooperative spirits of Arthur Liberty, Morris, Godwin, Lewis Days and other designers, architects including artists contributed a great deal to make the English textile designs to be creative contemproary art works.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• English & American cultural studies
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.83-103
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• 2013

This paper focuses on the function of suicidal images in the history of art including literature. Death has been romanticized or repoliticized into an existential act of defiance and rebellion in literary works, so questions remain about the correlation between literary suicide and the essence of suicide. Although Jacques Ranciere insists that the order of art contrasts with the order of common people whose acts and gestures can express either their specific purposes nor the rationalities of their frustration, literary suicide reflects the outside life of readers. In fact, images of suicide produces the order of things about the real world. William Shakespeare's Hamlet handled two oppositional self-murder significantly. As Ron M. Brown pointed out, Hamlet, by choosing confrontation, seeks out an end which is voluntary, thus he avoids self-destruction and feels triumph of heroic fashion. Ophelia's self-chosen death stems from loss, frailty and the disintegration of reason, which demeans the act and diminishes her from the tragic to the pathetic(16). In the $19^{th}$ century, the resurrection of Ophelia acted as the context for later periods where life itself is fictionalized from the differing periods of network of signifier and texts. Finally, in Ophelia's case, fiction became life(Brown 285). Her suicidal image was fixed in the Victorian Culture whose visual discourse was strikingly similar to that of the men. Likewise, the ambiguities of the suicide became intertwined with the social, cultural issues of a certain period, and the paradigm of suicide was conformed to the changing needs of successive generations. However, if literary art understands that a European culture grappled with the almost impossible task and coming to terms with this strangest and most persistent of phenomena, it will be able to focus on of the multi-layered suicide by recognizing the inherent instability of the verbal sign which cannot reveal the design and grammar of truth.