• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.178-186
• /
• 1992

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves are performed by superposition of different wave frequencies, faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain location. Large spilling and plunging breaking waves are generated near the expected breaking location. Wave steepness in spilling and plunging breakers significantly increases as the breaking point is approached and then decreases after breaking. Larger growth rate of the wave steepness in vigorous plunging breaking is observed. The fundamental wave frequencies in a wave group are dominant through the wave evolution, even in an intense plunging breaking event.

• Journal of the Institute of Convergence Signal Processing
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.122-127
• /
• 2021

Flow features near the ship bow such as wave breaking, small scale phenomena have been studied using numerical methods. In this study, the bow shaped wedge was adopted which is from previous paper [1, 2] and the conditions of simulation were Re = 1.64 × 10⁵) and Fr = 2.93. Star CCM+, one of the commercial CFD programs has been used for the simulations. Simulation results such as wave profiles near the ship bow, shape of plunging jet, air entrainment, and wave breaking process have been compared with previous experimental and numerical studies. Overall results showed good agreements with previous studies. Profiles of bow waves showed that overturning jet has been created and broken along the wedge. Plunging wave breaking has been observed along the wedge and four components of plunging wave breaking process were shown. It is confirmed that velocity near the overturing jet significantly increased during plunging wave breaking.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.9 no.4
• /
• pp.439-445
• /
• 2017

Plunging breaker slamming pressures on vertical or sloping sea dikes are one of the most severe and dangerous loads that sea dike structures can suffer. Many studies have investigated the impact forces caused by breaking waves for maritime structures including sea dikes and most predictions of the breaker forces are based on empirical or semi-empirical formulae calibrated from laboratory experiments. However, the wave breaking mechanism is complex and more research efforts are still needed to improve the accuracy in predicting breaker forces. This study proposes a semi-empirical formula, which is based on impulse-momentum relation, to calculate the slamming pressure due to plunging wave breaking on a sloping sea dike. Compared with some measured slamming pressure data in two literature, the calculation results by the new formula show reasonable agreements. Also, by analysing probability distribution function of wave heights, the proposed formula can be converted into a probabilistic expression form for convenience only.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.157-163
• /
• 1994

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves is performed by nonlinear wave evolution as well as superposition of different wave frequencies. Two-dimensional and three-dimensional wave instabilities and breakings are observed in nonlinear wave evolution. The wave energy evolves with almost the same initial wave energy before breaking but decreases significantly after breaking process. Large spilling and plunging waves are generated near e expected breaking location by means of faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain point. More energy loss in vigorous plunging breakers is observed through breaking process.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.624-640
• /
• 2017

In this paper, the slamming coefficients on local members of a jacket structure under plunging breaker are studied based on numerical simulations. A 3D numerical model is used to investigate breaking wave forces on the local members of the jacket structure. A wide range of breaking wave conditions is considered in order to get generalized slamming coefficients on the jacket structure. In order to make quantitative comparison between CFD model and experimental data, Empirical Mode Decomposition (EMD) is employed for obtaining net breaking wave forces from the measured response, and the filtered results are compared with the computed results in order to confirm the accuracy of the numerical model. Based on the validated results, the slamming coefficients on the local members (front and back vertical members, front and back inclined members, and side inclined members) are estimated. The distribution of the slamming coefficients on local members is also discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.37-43
• /
• 1996

Breaking waves were generated in a 2-D flume. A piston-type wavemaker was operated in accordance with signals which consist of elementary harmonics with appropriate phase differences. These phase differences were estimated by using a linear wave theory so that wave crests were to be concentrated at the same position. The stroke of wavemaker was controlled to create plunging-type breaking waves. The signal with small amplitude could not generate breaking waves. In the case of moderate amplitudes, various breaking waves could be obtained. Most of breaking waves were spilling type. Only when the wavemaker was operated with appropriate amplitude, plunging-type breaking waves were generated. The parameters of breaking waves are the wave steepness and the frequency bandwidth. If the central frequency was low, breaking waves were not generated. Based on experimental data, we found that the wave height of breaking inception was H = 0.0113 gT$^2$. We also made computations by using a mixed Euler-Lagrangian scheme under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical results show good agreements with tank measurements.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.439-459
• /
• 2022

This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.141-148
• /
• 1999

The magnitude of breaking wave forces given by plunging breakers incident on a pile structure is much greater than the forces calculated by Morison's formula, but those forces may act on pile for very short duration in the range of a few multiples of 0.01 second. Hence, a dynamic analysis for the impact forces of breaking waves may be necessary for the accurate determination of pile displacements in the first stage of design. The time series of the impact force along the pile length is thus required, which may be estimated from the pressure distribution. In the present study, breaking wave pressures are measured for a vertical pile at real field which is easily subjected to plunging breakers in stormy weather conditions. The measured data are analyzed and compared with other results to quantify the characteristics of breaking wave pressures in real fields.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.1-6
• /
• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.187-192
• /
• 2007

Impact on cylindrical surface caused by plunging breaking waves is investigated experimentally. The breaking waves are generated in a wave flume by decreasing the wave maker frequencies linearly and focusing the generated wave components at one specific location. The breaking wave packets are based on constant wave steepness spectrum. Three inclination angles of cylinder are applied to examine the effect of contact angle between cylinder and front surface of breaking waves. Also, the effect of cylinder diameter on pressure distribution and its peak value is investigated by adopting three cylinders with different diameters. The longitudinal location of cylinder is slightly moved in eight different points to find out a probable maximum value of impact pressure. The pressures and total force on cylinder surface are measured by piezo-electric pressure sensors and 3-components load cell with 30kHz sampling rate. The variation of peak impact pressures and forces is analyzed in terms of cylinder diameter, inclination angle and location. Also, the pressure distribution on cylindrical surface is examined. The cylinder location and surface position are more important parameters that govern the magnitude and shape of peak pressures, while the cylinder diameter and inclined angle are relatively insignificant. In a certain conditions, the impact phenomenon becomes very unstable which results in a large variation of measured valves in repeated runs.