• 한국화예디자인학연구
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• 제44호
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• pp.53-73
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• 2021

본 연구는 화예 작품 창작에 있어 작가가 겪은 일련의 개인적인 경험과 그로부터 발현된 느낌을 의식적 차원에서뿐 아니라 무의식의 차원에서 방법적 과정을 통해 도출하여 작품화하는 시도를 행한 연구이다. 무의식의 수준에서 겪은 내적 경험과 느낌을 포착하기 위하여 내용의 서사화를 보완하는 장면화 기법을 도입하였다. 구체적으로는 포착된 내적 심상으로서 장면을 기록, 보존하는 방법으로 시각 노트 기법과 이미지 리서치 기법을 적용하였다. 내용적으로는 연구자가 패션디자인을 배우기 위해 프랑스 뚜르(Tours)라는 작은 마을에서 보낸 준비기간과 ESOMD International Paris 라는 패션학교에서의 치열하고 힘겨운 일상의 경험을 작품화하였다. 그를 통해 Deja Vu, 'ㅅ(서울-파리)', '붕(崩)(두 개의 달 위의 산)', '등(燈) (Load out and Stay)', 'ㅇ' 등 5개의 작품을 창작함에 있어 연구자의 개인적 경험과 그로부터 발현된 느낌을 의식적 차원에서뿐 아니라 무의식의 차원에서 방법적 과정을 통해 심층적으로 도출하여 작품화할 수 있었다. 또한 그 창작을 통해 연구자는 흔들림 속에서 자신을 발견해가는 내적 경험과 그를 통한 개인적 실현의 과정을 탐색할 수 있었다. 본 연구는 한 창작자가 개인 내면의 무의식적 경험을 발굴하여 창작에 활용한 방법적 접근을 보여준 질적 연구 사례로서 그 의미를 찾을 수 있을 것이다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.30-47
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• 2006

La $d\'{e}marche$ et l'objet de cette recherche sont d'analyser, psychiquement, $th\'{e}oriquement$, les marques de $l'intersexualit\'{e}$ $pr\'{e}sentent$ en Orient et les $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ intersexuels, binaires dans le $v\hat{e}tement$, et $\'{e}galement$ de comprendre $l'ambiguit\'{e}$ ou encore la fusion des $identit\'{e}s$ $sexu\'{e}es$, qui $pr\'{e}sente$ symboliquement a travers le $v\hat{e}tement$, dans la $soci\'{e}t\'{e}$ moderne. La base fondamentale dans la $th\'{e}orie$ de l'Orient est que l'univers se divise en Yin ($caract\`{e}re\;f\'{e}minin$) et Yang ($caract\`{e}re$ masculin) et que tout individu $poss\`{e}de$ $\'{e}galement$ ce couple, en quelque sorte un intersexuel qui s'ignore, avec des variations selon l'individu. En $d\'{e}finitive$, les compositions doubles des $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ dans le $v\hat{e}tement$ oriental montraient $embl\'{e}matiquement$ nos $qualit\'{e}s$ doubles, masculins et $f\'{e}minins$, et les trois $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ semblent primordiaux pour $l'\'{e}lucidation$ de la $pr\'{e}disposition$ du porteur : la couleur du tissu, sa forme et la texture du $v\hat{e}tement$. La mode d'auiourd'hui oscille entre masculin et $f\hat{e}minin$. Cette fusion de la mode semble le reflet d'une tendance intersexuelle et d'une fusion du genre. Ainsi, cette recherche est, $\grave{a}$ travers $l'\'{e}l\'{e}ment$ masculin ou $f\'{e}minin$ des $v\hat{e}tements$, pour tenter de discerner lesprit, l'intention et le $caract\`{e}re$ sexuel dominant du porteur.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.142-151
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• 2006

Bikini, a brief two-piece bathing suit revealing the wearer's navel, was first introduced in Paris, in 1946. However, it was not until the late 1950s that Americans were ready to adopt bikinis. Therefore, I focused on the following research questions to understand the popularization process of bikinis in the United States, from 1946 to the 1960s: 1. Why were Americans initially hesitant to adopt the bikini? 2. What were the factors that influenced the popularization of the bikini among Americans in the late 1950s? Primary sources including Bazaar. Madmoiselle, Vogue, The New York Times, and Life were reviewed. I referred to secondary sources on the history of fashion and American popular culture to interpret primary sources. According to the primary sources, Americans were hesitant to adopt the bikini, partly due to the excessive demand on the wearer's figure. However, the conservative social atmosphere during Cold War would not accept immorality and obscenity which would threaten America's future. Therefore, the campaigns against the sex industry, which developed prominently after WWII, predominated American society during the 1950s. Under this atmosphere, a small number of pictures and articles on bikinis appeared in the primary sources. Bikinis were only found in advertisements including sun lotions and hair removers. However, American society had to accept the change in sexual mores by the end of the 1930s. Body-revealing fashions including miniskirts, hot pants, and see-through material reflected the change in social convention. By the end of the 1950s, the number of pictures and articles on bikinis also began to increase in the primary sources. More Americans adopted bikinis with the increasing number of private pools and European trips. The vogue of sun-tanning and movies featuring bikinis further contributed to their popularity in the late 1930s and into the 1960s.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.125-134
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• 2011

Art Deco is a decorative and eclectic design style, popularized at the interwar period. The term Art Deco derives from the Exposition Internationale des Arts D$\acute{e}$coratils et Industriels Modernes held in Paris in 1925. The aim of the exposition was to create new modern aesthetics. This exposition introduced the modern decorative and industrial art to the world and influenced all designers of area, including architects, interior designers, industrial designers, craftsmen, fashion designers, etc. Art Deco designers applied inspirations from a variety of sources and movements such as the Cubist abstract, the Neoclassical refinement, Egyptian exotic elements, Babylonian and Aztec temples, the machine aesthetic, avant-garde movements, etc to their modern works. Art Deco style rapidly spread all over the design areas nationwide in America. In Art Deco architecture, in particular, its inception was French but its domination was American. Skyscrapers, airplanes, automobiles, ocean liners, jazz, Hollywood film, streamline, and native Indian symbols are the defining features of American Art Deco. This study began from questions on how these features are expressed and stylized to decoration elements as the modern aesthetics in American Art Deco architecture. Thus, the purpose of the study is to find out the ornamental and eclectic factors of Art Deco style and to define a concept of the modernity and the regionalism of Art Deco architecture in America. This article provides an overview of the decoration style of Art Deco architecture in America through the analysis of ornamental and eclectic factors reflecting diverse roots. It also analyzes the wide variety of building examples of American Art Deco which represent regionalism. In addition, this study focuses on Art Deco architecture in Miami, Florida. Miami is one of typical cities that has the most unique regional aspects of 1920's to 1940's in Art Deco architecture. Miami Art Deco architecture reveals the tropical and nautical references such as streamlined and curved walls, exotic animal motifs, flora and fauna motifs, and marine motifs: use of glass block, porthole window, terra-cotta, and pastel color stucco.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2002

Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.

• Asia Marketing Journal
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.1-22
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• 2013

This case focuses on Shanghai Tang, the first truly Chinese luxury brand that appeals to both Westerners and, more recently, to Chinese consumers worldwide. A visionary and wealthy businessman Sir David Tang created this company from scratch in 1994 in Hong Kong. Its story, spanned over almost two decades, has been fascinating. It went from what best a Chinese brand could be in the eyes of Westerners who love the Chinese culture, to a nearly-bankrupted company in 1998, before being acquired by Richemont, the second largest luxury group in the world. Since then, its turnaround has been spectacular with a growing appeal among Chinese luxury consumers who represent the core segment of the luxury industry today. The main objective of this case study is to formally examine how Shanghai Tang overcame its downfall and re-emerged as one the very few well- known Chinese luxury brands. More specifically, this case highlights the ways with which Shanghai Tang made a transitional change from a brand for Westerners who love the Chinese culture, to a brand for both, Westerners who love the Chinese culture and Chinese who love luxury. A close examination reveals that Shanghai Tang has followed the brand identity concept that consists of two major components: functional and emotional. The functional component for developing a luxury brand concerns all product characteristics that will make a product 'luxurious' in the eyes of the consumer, such as premium quality of cachemire from Mongolia, Chinese silk, lacquer, finest leather, porcelain, and jade in the case of Shanghai Tang. The emotional component consists of non-functional symbolic meanings of a brand. The symbolic meaning marks the major difference between a premium and a luxury brand. In the case of Shanghai Tang, its symbolic meaning refers to the Chinese culture and the brand aims to represent the best of Chinese traditions and establish itself as "the ambassador of modern Chinese style". It touches the Chinese heritage and emotions. Shanghai Tang has reinvented the modern Chinese chic by drawing back to the stylish decadence of Shanghai in the 1930s, which was then called the "Paris of the East", and this is where the brand finds inspiration to create its own myth. Once the functional and emotional components assured, Shanghai Tang has gone through a four-stage development to become the first global Chinese luxury brand: introduction, deepening, expansion, and revitalization. Introduction: David Tang discovered a market gap and had a vision to launch the first Chinese luxury brand to the world. The key success drivers for the introduction and management of a Chinese luxury brand are a solid brand identity and, above all, a creative mind, an inspired person. This was David Tang then, and this is now Raphael Le Masne de Chermont, the current Executive Chairman. Shanghai Tang combines Chinese and Western elements, which it finds to be the most sustainable platform for drawing consumers. Deepening: A major objective of the next phase is to become recognized as a luxury brand and a fashion or design authority. For this purpose, Shanghai Tang has cooperated with other well-regarded luxury and lifestyle brands such as Puma and Swarovski. It also expanded its product lines from high-end custom-made garments to music CDs and restaurant. Expansion: After the opening of his first store in Hong Kong in 1994, David Tang went on to open his second store in New York City three years later. However this New York retail operation was a financial disaster. Barely nineteen months after the opening, the store was shut down and quietly relocated to a cheaper location of Madison Avenue. Despite this failure, Shanghai Tang products found numerous followers especially among Western tourists and became "souvenir-like" must-haves. However, despite its strong brand DNA, the brand did not generate enough repeated sales and over the years the company cumulated heavy debts and became unprofitable. Revitalizing: After its purchase by Richemont in 1998, Le Masne de Chermont was appointed to lead the company, reposition the brand and undertake some major strategic changes such as revising the "Shanghai Tang" designs to appeal not only to Westerners but also to Chinese consumers, and to open new stores around the world. Since then, Shanghai Tang has become synonymous to a modern Chinese luxury lifestyle brand.