• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.73-87
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to investigate the characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2002 S/S to 2006/7 A/W. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 677 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of achromatic & chromatic color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) The achromatic & chromatic color coordination was identified as one of most used color coordination in contmeporary women's fashion collections. (2) Black and white mainly used for achromatic color, and brown used the most often, then followed by blue, red, yellow, green and the others for chromatic color in achromatic & chromatic coordination of contmeporary women's fashion collections. (3) The characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of modern women's fashion collections from 2002 S/S to 2006/07 A/W showed various images according to chromatic colors and tone variation. The combination of achromaticand brown color variations produced an intelligent and sophisticated image. The soft or light chromatic color and chromatic color combination projected soft, feminine and subtle feeling, while the combination of vivid or strong chromatic color and achromatic color projected a clean and strong feeling through contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. The chromatic color of deep or dark tone and black combination demonstrated supernatural and gloomy image. (4)In all four collections, Paris showed most use of two color coordination and then followed by Milan, N.Y, and London. N.Y showed higher rate of using achromatic & chromatic color coordination, and then followed by Paris, London and Milan.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.881-892
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• 2001

Applying the globalization theory to the fashion phenomena which regarded the phenomena of the contemporary culture as globalization, this study had an object of looking into the globalization tendency of the fashion phenomena shown Paris, London, Milno, New York, Tokyo, and Seoul collections from 1995 to 1999. The results of this study were as follows; 1. It was the blend of romanticism that was the most common trend shown at the six world collections. 2. The works appeared at the six world collections showed the regional peculiarity under the historical background or the sociocultural influence each city had. 3. Another character appeared at the six city collections was the appearance of multi-ethnic style mixed various regional motive at a work. After all, the world fashion phenomena in the second half of 1990's could be condensed into globalization appeared homogenization, regionalization and hybridization at the same time.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.45-57
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the macramé technique used in costume design based on the cases from 2011 to 2020, when the macramé technique became popular. The research data are the results of analyzing the materials, clothing items, and structural combination of macramé knots by season, year, and collection from 2011 S/S to 2020 F/W, focusing on the four major fashion collections New York, Paris, London, and Milan. Macramé appeared often in the S/S season, and in the 2019 and 2020 S/S seasons, macramé was identified as a keyword for fashion trends based on its frequent usage. Overhand knots were used the most for the types of macramé knots used in costumes, and overhand knots were also used the most in the S/S season and in the New York, Paris, and Milan collections. Rope was the most frequently used material for macramé knots, and it was confirmed that it appeared frequently in 2011 and 2019, and ropes were also used often in the London, Milan, and Paris collections. One-piece appeared the most in the S/S season and F/W season as costume items. In addition, the costumes used as layers in the S/S season appeared most often, and in 2019 and 2020, the layered combination appeared most frequently in London and New York collections. It is judged that macramé appears repeatedly in the S/S season depending on the type of knot and is used as a layered look, making it a decorative element rather than a practical element. This study is expected to help develop modern fashion design by drawing attention to the value of the macramé technique expressed as handcrafted work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.93-110
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• 2011

This study investigates the analysis on the acceptance of Foreign Fashion trends in Korean Fashion Collection by collections, years, season, and designers. The purpose of this study is Korean collection's degree to adopt and receive foreign collections, by comparative analysis of design features between Seoul and foreign collections. For such purpose, from 2006 S/S to 2011 F/W, 5185 pictures were collected from designer's photos of Seoul, Paris, Milan, NY, and London collections. The content analysis and statistical analysis using SPSS will be conducted for data analysis. The results of the research are as follows. First, regarding the design features, square-form silhouette, achromatic colors, and none pattern were presented as well. Second, there were significant differences in the design characteristics of each year. Particularly, in 2008, X-form silhouette, Yellow and Green color, and flower pattern were emphasized. Third, the design features by season were significant differences. In S/S season, square-form and X-form silhouette, achromatic colors of white and gray color, none pattern were evident while in F/W season, square-form Silhouette, achromatic colors of black and gray, and none pattern were emphasized. Fourth, the design features by designer are as follows. In terms of form, Seoul collection was influenced by Paris collection. In terms of colors, it was influenced by NY and London collections.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.122-136
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• 2013

This study supplements clothes by studying pleasure shown in accessories of haute couture designers and finds out pleasant characteristics represented in items which play an important role in producing personalities through collections, so the study aims at prospecting design development directions accessories henceforth. For the study period and methods, 295 photo materials were analyzed being judged to show pleasure centered on Mode et Mode, representative fashion magazine, from 2005 S/S Paris haute couture collections to 2013 S/S Paris haute couture collections. At this time, the photos analyses were conducted and selected by two experts (Ph. D holders majored in fashion design) through two times. After analyzing pleasure features represented in fashion collection focused on haute couture accessories, I could know that surrealistic pleasure, anonymity-expressing pleasure, natural pleasure, and exaggerative pleasure were shown. The pleasure, as element that supplements and emphasizes clothes, has had an effect on bringing laughs characteristically.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.21-33
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• 2005

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of identical color coordination through the analysis of modern female fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 2026 was done through review of '$pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Lastly, statistical analysis of frequency and $X^2$-test and also qualitative interpretation of identical color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; The color coordination of modern women's fashion produces a unified theme, or monochromatic harmony, through the use and coordination of identical colors. The clear contrast of tones portrays a strong image especially in achromatic color coordination, and through the use of texture variation, monochromatic color coordination becomes even more compelling. The tone variation, observed most often in monochromatic color coordination was the black and white contrast, which enhances the simplicity and clarity. Within chromatic color combinations, tone on tone color coordination was achieved by varying brightness. Furthermore, the observation of Faux Camaeu indicates that the coordination of different textures is used often in identical color coordination. While achromatic colors can lead to a hard and rough feeling, it also is compensated through the use of varying textures. In addition, adding variety of textures can add subtle interests to the simplicity of white. Lastly, in all four collections, the chromatic identical color coordination was found more frequently than the achromatic. In Paris, N.Y. & London, the chromatic identical coordination was used more often than chromatic. Milan showed most use of achromatic coordination. The use of the tones showed similar trends in all four collections, with contrasting tone being used most often, followed by similar and identical tones.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.53-64
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• 2014

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of printed geometric patterns through the statistical & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections 2011 S/S to 2013 A/W. Data collection of 294 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics were completed. The main findings were as followed; 1,636 of the total 15,852 designs were printed patterns in 12 Collections and the occurrence rate of printed geometric patterns in three collections were 8.6% in Milan, 9.2% in Paris and 12.9% in N.Y. Most geometric patterns were the types of compact or medium density in a front patterns with a variety of sizes and mainly applied to the one piece dress or two piece clothing item combination styles. Formative Characteristics of printed geometric patterns were classified into four types. First, a variety of thicknesses and shapes, such as a line or a rectangle shape to take advantage of the types of the typical geometric pattern. Second types were using the motifs which inspired by geometric shapes such as point, circle star and other special geometric shapes and arranging them regularly with various sizes and density. The third was repeated particular motifs which based on complex and sophisticated mathematical formulas. Fourth were the specific diagram types of bold and free shapes or dividing the flat and arranging them without rules, or the combination type of various geometric motifs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.91-109
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• 2013

The main objective of this research was to understand the latest trends of natural print design through the quantitative & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections. The research criteria was defined as 3 seasons from 2011 S/S to 2012 S/S. Data collection of 726 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency with chi-square test was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics was completed. The main findings were as follows.; The average occurrence rate of natural print design from 2011SS to 2012 SS in three collections were 6.4% in Milan 6.4%, 5.5% in Paris and 6.8% in N.Y. The five source types of natural prints in contemporary women's fashion collections were identified and the order of their appearance were as follows: flowers, plants, animals, insects & marine organisms and compound one. The plant prints were expressed by stylized or realistic touch. Flower patterns showed more variables than plants, however, there were no big difference in their image and major characteristics. The animal prints demonstrated two aspects. First one used typical animal print of fur or skin, but the other one draw the animal figure like paintings. The compound source type presented the most interesting and fresh pattern design ideas. In the insects & marine organisms, mainly butterfly and seashell & starfish, etc. appeared as real shapes or sometimes were stylized.