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The Characteristics of Chinoiserie in Contemporary Women's Wear - Focused on Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 - (현대 여성복에 나타난 중국풍 특성 - 2005년~2014년 파리 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Zhu, Jiayi;Ha, Seung-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.21-36
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    • 2016
  • The purposes of this study were to find out how the characteristics of Chinoiserie in the perspective of the West have influenced on the contemporary womens' fashion. 440 pieces of photo data for this study were collected, focusing on Paris collections as a fashion capital of Europe, for the period of 10 years from 2005 through 2014. The results of this study are as follows. The impacts of Chinoiserie have increased consistently since 2009. The reasons for the increased impacts are assumed that the influence of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion rekindled it, as the worldwide attentions to China have been growing since Beijing Olimpic, Aug. 2008. Reviewing by seasons, the trend of Chinoiserie has been more distinct in F/W season comparing with S/S season except year 2007 and 2011. Considering the results of analysis for each designer, Leonard and Shiatzy Chen, the designers of Chinese-origin, appeared to apply the characteristics of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion most successfully, while European designers, such as Dries Van Noten, Valentino, and Jean Paul Gaultier, also appeared to accommodate actively the design styles of Chinoiserie in their fashions. Moreover the Asian designers, such as Aesuro Tayama, Andrew GN, and Kenzo, had been using Chinoiserie as a means of providing oriental ambience. The results of this study would be helpful to design and plan the fashion items which are scheduled to enter Chinese markets by Korean designer brands and fashion enterprises. In addition, it is considered that these results would help Chinese designers understand the design characteristics of Chinoiserie which have evoked empathy of people all around the world, when they make Western stage debut in the future.

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The Characteristics of Identical Color Coordination In Contemporary Women's Fashion - Centered on the Collections of Paris, Milan, New York, London - (현대(現代) 여성(女性) 패션에 나타난 동일색채(同一色彩) 코디네이션의 특성(特性) - 파리, 밀란, 뉴욕, 런던 컬렉션 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kwon, Hae-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.21-33
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    • 2005
  • The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of identical color coordination through the analysis of modern female fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 2026 was done through review of '$pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Lastly, statistical analysis of frequency and $X^2$-test and also qualitative interpretation of identical color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; The color coordination of modern women's fashion produces a unified theme, or monochromatic harmony, through the use and coordination of identical colors. The clear contrast of tones portrays a strong image especially in achromatic color coordination, and through the use of texture variation, monochromatic color coordination becomes even more compelling. The tone variation, observed most often in monochromatic color coordination was the black and white contrast, which enhances the simplicity and clarity. Within chromatic color combinations, tone on tone color coordination was achieved by varying brightness. Furthermore, the observation of Faux Camaeu indicates that the coordination of different textures is used often in identical color coordination. While achromatic colors can lead to a hard and rough feeling, it also is compensated through the use of varying textures. In addition, adding variety of textures can add subtle interests to the simplicity of white. Lastly, in all four collections, the chromatic identical color coordination was found more frequently than the achromatic. In Paris, N.Y. & London, the chromatic identical coordination was used more often than chromatic. Milan showed most use of achromatic coordination. The use of the tones showed similar trends in all four collections, with contrasting tone being used most often, followed by similar and identical tones.

Prints Design Which Appeared in Women's Collections of Paris, Milan & New York from 2011S/S to 2013A/W - Focused on Geometric Pattern - (2011 S/S ~ 2013 A/W 까지 파리, 밀란, 뉴욕 여성복 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 문양디자인 - 기하학 문양을 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Haesook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.53-64
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    • 2014
  • The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of printed geometric patterns through the statistical & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections 2011 S/S to 2013 A/W. Data collection of 294 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics were completed. The main findings were as followed; 1,636 of the total 15,852 designs were printed patterns in 12 Collections and the occurrence rate of printed geometric patterns in three collections were 8.6% in Milan, 9.2% in Paris and 12.9% in N.Y. Most geometric patterns were the types of compact or medium density in a front patterns with a variety of sizes and mainly applied to the one piece dress or two piece clothing item combination styles. Formative Characteristics of printed geometric patterns were classified into four types. First, a variety of thicknesses and shapes, such as a line or a rectangle shape to take advantage of the types of the typical geometric pattern. Second types were using the motifs which inspired by geometric shapes such as point, circle star and other special geometric shapes and arranging them regularly with various sizes and density. The third was repeated particular motifs which based on complex and sophisticated mathematical formulas. Fourth were the specific diagram types of bold and free shapes or dividing the flat and arranging them without rules, or the combination type of various geometric motifs.

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Comparative, randomized, double-blind clinical study of alveolar ridge preservation using an extracellular matrix-based dental resorbable membrane in the extraction socket

  • Chang, Hyeyoon;Kim, Sulhee;Hwang, Jin wook;Kim, Sungtae;Koo, Ki-Tae;Kim, Tae-Il;Seol, Yang-Jo;Lee, Yong-Moo;Ku, Young;Lee, Jong-Ho;Rhyu, In-Chul
    • Journal of Periodontal and Implant Science
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    • v.47 no.3
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    • pp.165-173
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    • 2017
  • Purpose: The aim of this study was to radiographically and clinically compare the effect of extracellular matrix (ECM) membranes on dimensional alterations following a ridge preservation procedure. Methods: One of 2 different ECM membranes was applied during a ridge preservation procedure. A widely used ECM membrane (WEM; Bio-Gide, Geistlich Biomaterials, Wolhusen, Switzerland) was applied in the treatment group and a newly developed ECM membrane (NEM; Lyso-Gide, Oscotec Inc., Seongnam, Korea) was applied in the control group. Cone-beam computed tomography (CBCT) scans and alginate impressions were obtained 1 week and 6 months after the ridge preservation procedure. Results were analyzed using the independent t-test and the nonparametric Mann-Whitney U test. Results: There were no significant differences between the ECM membranes in the changes in the dimension, width, and height of the extraction socket or the quantity of bone tissue. Conclusions: The NEM showed comparable clinical and radiographic results to the WEM following the ridge preservation procedure.

A randomized controlled clinical study of periodontal tissue regeneration using an extracellular matrix-based resorbable membrane in combination with a collagenated bovine bone graft in intrabony defects

  • Kim, Sulhee;Chang, Hyeyoon;Hwang, Jin wook;Kim, Sungtae;Koo, Ki-Tae;Kim, Tae-Il;Seol, Yang-Jo;Lee, Yong-Moo;Ku, Young;Lee, Jong-Ho;Rhyu, In-Chul
    • Journal of Periodontal and Implant Science
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    • v.47 no.6
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    • pp.363-371
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    • 2017
  • Purpose: The purpose of this study was to investigate the feasibility of regenerative therapy with a collagenated bone graft and resorbable membrane in intrabony defects, and to evaluate the effects of the novel extracellular matrix (ECM)-based membrane clinically and radiologically. Methods: Periodontal tissue regeneration procedure was performed using an ECM-based resorbable membrane in combination with a collagenated bovine bone graft in intrabony defects around the teeth and implants. A novel extracellular matrix membrane (NEM) and a widely-used membrane (WEM) were randomly applied to the test group and the control group, respectively. Cone-beam computed tomography images were obtained on the day of surgery and 6 months after the procedure. Alginate impressions were taken and plaster models were made 1 week and 6 months postoperatively. Results: The quantity of bone tissue, the dimensional changes of the surgically treated intrabony defects, and the changes in width and height below the grafted bone substitutes showed no significant difference between the test and control groups at the 6-month examination. Conclusions: The use of NEM for periodontal regeneration with a collagenated bovine bone graft showed similar clinical and radiologic results to those obtained using WEM.

The Research for Amarican Sportswear - Focusing on Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan - (미국(美國) Sportswear에 관한 연구(硏究) - Claire McCardell, Cavin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan을 중심으로 -)

  • Jung, Sung-Hye
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.15
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    • pp.217-231
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    • 1990
  • The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

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Big Data Meets Telcos: A Proactive Caching Perspective

  • Bastug, Ejder;Bennis, Mehdi;Zeydan, Engin;Kader, Manhal Abdel;Karatepe, Ilyas Alper;Er, Ahmet Salih;Debbah, Merouane
    • Journal of Communications and Networks
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    • v.17 no.6
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    • pp.549-557
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    • 2015
  • Mobile cellular networks are becoming increasingly complex to manage while classical deployment/optimization techniques and current solutions (i.e., cell densification, acquiring more spectrum, etc.) are cost-ineffective and thus seen as stopgaps. This calls for development of novel approaches that leverage recent advances in storage/memory, context-awareness, edge/cloud computing, and falls into framework of big data. However, the big data by itself is yet another complex phenomena to handle and comes with its notorious 4V: Velocity, voracity, volume, and variety. In this work, we address these issues in optimization of 5G wireless networks via the notion of proactive caching at the base stations. In particular, we investigate the gains of proactive caching in terms of backhaul offloadings and request satisfactions, while tackling the large-amount of available data for content popularity estimation. In order to estimate the content popularity, we first collect users' mobile traffic data from a Turkish telecom operator from several base stations in hours of time interval. Then, an analysis is carried out locally on a big data platformand the gains of proactive caching at the base stations are investigated via numerical simulations. It turns out that several gains are possible depending on the level of available information and storage size. For instance, with 10% of content ratings and 15.4Gbyte of storage size (87%of total catalog size), proactive caching achieves 100% of request satisfaction and offloads 98% of the backhaul when considering 16 base stations.

Characteristics of Natural Prints Design in Fashion Collections - Paris, Milan & New York from 2011 SS to 2012 SS - (패션 컬렉션에 나타난 자연문양디자인의 특성 - 2011 S/S ~2012 S/S 파리, 밀란, 뉴욕 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Hae-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.91-109
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    • 2013
  • The main objective of this research was to understand the latest trends of natural print design through the quantitative & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections. The research criteria was defined as 3 seasons from 2011 S/S to 2012 S/S. Data collection of 726 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency with chi-square test was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics was completed. The main findings were as follows.; The average occurrence rate of natural print design from 2011SS to 2012 SS in three collections were 6.4% in Milan 6.4%, 5.5% in Paris and 6.8% in N.Y. The five source types of natural prints in contemporary women's fashion collections were identified and the order of their appearance were as follows: flowers, plants, animals, insects & marine organisms and compound one. The plant prints were expressed by stylized or realistic touch. Flower patterns showed more variables than plants, however, there were no big difference in their image and major characteristics. The animal prints demonstrated two aspects. First one used typical animal print of fur or skin, but the other one draw the animal figure like paintings. The compound source type presented the most interesting and fresh pattern design ideas. In the insects & marine organisms, mainly butterfly and seashell & starfish, etc. appeared as real shapes or sometimes were stylized.

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Psychological Assessment of Regional and Emotional Images Reflected in Design Theme -Centering round on the futurism appeared in Paris, Milan, London, New York Fashion Collections- (디자인 테마에 반영된 지역별 감성 이미지의 심리적 평가-파리, 밀라노, 런던, 뉴욕의 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 퓨처리즘을 중심으로-)

  • 김혜영
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.3_4
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    • pp.343-353
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    • 2003
  • In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.

AREVA NP's enhanced accident-tolerant fuel developments: Focus on Cr-coated M5 cladding

  • Bischoff, Jeremy;Delafoy, Christine;Vauglin, Christine;Barberis, Pierre;Roubeyrie, Cedric;Perche, Delphine;Duthoo, Dominique;Schuster, Frederic;Brachet, Jean-Christophe;Schweitzer, Elmar W.;Nimishakavi, Kiran
    • Nuclear Engineering and Technology
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    • v.50 no.2
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    • pp.223-228
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    • 2018
  • AREVA NP (Courbevoie, Paris, France) is actively developing several enhanced accident-tolerant fuels cladding concepts ranging from near-term evolutionary (Cr-coated zirconium alloy cladding) to long-term revolutionary (SiC/SiC composite cladding) solutions, relying on its worldwide teams and partnerships, with programs and irradiations planned both in Europe and the United States. The most advanced and mature solution is a dense, adherent chromium coating on zirconium alloy cladding, which was initially developed along with the CEA and EDF in the French joint nuclear R&D program. The evaluation of the out-of-pile behavior of the Cr-coated cladding showed excellent results, suggesting enhanced reliability, enhanced operational flexibility, and improved economics in normal operating conditions. For example, because chromium is harder than zirconium, the Cr coating provides the cladding with a significantly improved wear resistance. Furthermore, Cr-coated samples exhibit extremely low corrosion kinetics in autoclave and prevents accelerated corrosion in harsh environments such as in water with 70 ppm Li leading to improved operational flexibility. Finally, AREVA NP has fabricated a physical vapor deposition prototype machine to coat full-length cladding tubes. This machine will be used for the manufacturing of full-length lead test rods in commercial reactors by 2019.