• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.111-126
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• 2011

Cultural collage phenomena came to the fore where various differing elements combined to make a reality in the post-modern culture. Collage, a technique with which to express a unique sense of texture has been used since a long time ago by fashion illustrators, finds itself expressed in much more diverse forms and characteristics, and its meanings changed, too. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of collage as expressed in fashion illustrations since 2000s and look into its aesthetic meanings, and in doing so, examine effects of changes along the times that have sought plural diversity on fashion illustrations. This study selected and examined from various collage techniques three collage expression techniques including papier colle, photo montage and assemblage frequently used as techniques of fashion illustrations. Papier colle technique expressed in fashion illustration simplify forms, thereby stressing linear elements, and express lines and planes At the same time, such works provide depth to planar spaces by overlapping objects and putting together differing elements, In fashion illustrations utilizing photo montage more than one images taken from photos are cut up and reconstructed, where illusory and sometimes shocking images are conveyed through particular forms or unrealistic compositions created by casual combination of unrelated images. Unique and eccentric images are conveyed by means of assemblage through the combination of various kinds of heterogeneous materials in fashion illustrations. This not only conveys fashion images sensitively but presents each fragment as objets regardless of its original functions, and attempts at new concepts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.129-143
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• 2012

This study focuses on the application of collage techniques to contemporary fashion and intends to show that collage techniques have a significant influence on contemporary fashion, leading to a more creative design aesthetic through the combination of fashion and art. The author carried out an empirical analysis focusing on domestic and global fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2010F/W, fashion publications, and internet data, along with a literature review. As a result, the papier-colle approach, as represented by cubism, showed a creative surface effect through the texture of the paper itself by applying real paper and other materials directly to the clothing items. Second, Dadaist ready-made expressed a distortion of the material and freedom of expression by creating a collage with ready-made fashion items and daily necessities. Third, a photomontage expressed unique images by printing various images of photos that contrasted in perspective. In addition to this, beauty in dissonance and a new sense of space by a collage of disparate material. Fourth, decalcomanie was expressed by printing methods, giving a stable image of the symmetry of the perfect landscape as well as the unintended effect of coincidence in abstract images and particular textures. Fifth, assemblage as the representative collage technique of pop art introduced the overall object itself or modified form by combining it with fashion to express three-dimensional aggregate structures.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.172-195
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• 2019

Among the paintings of Goam Lee Ungno (1904-1989), his works of the 1960s in Paris have been evaluated as his most avant-garde works of experimenting with and innovating objects as an artist. At that time, his works, such as Papier Colle and Abstract Letter, were influenced by abstract expressionism and Western Art Informel, illustrating his transformation from a traditional artist into a contemporary artist. An exhibition, which was held prior to his going to Paris in March 1958, has received attention because it exhibited the painting style of his early Informel art. Taking this into consideration, this study was conducted by interpreting his work from two perspectives; first, that his works of 1958 were influenced by abstract expressionism and Art Informel, and, second, that he expressed Xieyi (寫意) as literati painting, focusing on the fact that Lee Ungno first started his career adopting this style. In this paper, I aimed to confirm Lee Ungno's recognition of Art Informel and abstract painting, which can be called abstract expressionism. To achieve this, it was necessary to study Lee's painting theory at that time, so I first considered Hae-gang Kim Gyu-jin whom Lee Ungno began studying painting under, and his paintings during his time in Japan. It was confirmed that in order to escape from stereotypical paintings, deep contemplation of nature while painting was his first important principle. This principle, also known as Xieyi (寫意), lasted until the 1950s. In addition, it is highly probable that he understood the dictionary definition of abstract painting, i.e., the meaning of extracting shapes from nature according to the ideas which became important to him after studying in Japan, rather than the theory of abstract painting realized in Western paintings. Lee Ungno himself also stated that the shape of nature was the basis of abstract painting. In other words, abstractive painting and abstract painting are different concepts and based on this, it is necessary to analyze the paintings of Lee Ungno. Finally, I questioned the view that Lee Ungno's abstract paintings of the 1950s were painted as representative of the Xieyi (寫意) mind of literary art painting. Linking traditional literary art painting theory directly to Lee Ungno, who had been active in other worlds in space and time, may minimize Lee Ungno's individuality and make the distinction between traditional paintings and contemporary paintings obscure. Lee Ungno emphasized Xieyi (寫意) in his paintings; however, this might have been an emphasis signifying a great proposition. This is actually because his works produced in the 1950s, such as Self-Portrait (1956), featured painting styles with boldly distorted forms achieved by strong ink brushwork, a style which Lee Ungno defined as 'North Painting.' This is based on the view that it is necessary to distinguish between Xieyi (寫意) and 'the way of Xieyi (寫意) painting' as an important aspect of literary art painting. Therefore, his paintings need a new interpretation in consideration of the viewpoint that he represented abstract paintings according to his own Xieyi (寫意) way, rather than the view that his paintings were representations of Xieyi (寫意), or rather a succession of traditional paintings in the literary artist's style.