• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.26
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• pp.35-66
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• 2021

This study conducted scientific analysis and conservation treatment on four suits of armor and two helmets from the collection of the National Museum of Korea. Based on the findings, it identified structural characteristics of armor from the middle and late Joseon Dynasty. Since a suit of armor is made of composite materials consisting of both organic and inorganic elements, conservation treatment was conducted to the extent that the stable condition of each material remained unaffected by the other materials. The process took place in the sequence of investigation and analysis, removal of contamination, stabilization and reinforcement, repair of damaged parts, and storage. The armor and helmets had suffered severe damage, but were safely repaired and partially restored through the conservation treatment. The findings from the conservation treatment revealed the materials used and structural characteristics of the armored skirt from a two-piece set of armor from the middle Joseon period and for the two suits of overcoat-style armor, suit of vest-style armor, and helmets from the late Joseon era. It also allowed the investigation of the production methods of the armor and helmets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Tribology and Lubricants
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.128-135
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• 1995

Atomic force microscopy/friction force microscopy (AFM/FFM) techniques are increasingly used for tribological studies of engineering surfaces at scales, ranging from atomic and molecular to microscales. These techniques have been used to study surface roughness, adhesion, friction, scratching/wear, indentation, detection of material transfer, and boundary lubrication and for nanofabrication/nanomachining purposes. Micro/nanotribological studies of single-crystal silicon, natural diamond, magnetic media (magnetic tapes and disks) and magnetic heads have been conducted. Commonly measured roughness parameters are found to be scale dependent, requiring the need of scale-independent fractal parameters to characterize surface roughness. Measurements of atomic-scale friction of a freshly-cleaved highly-oriented pyrolytic graphite exhibited the same periodicity as that of corresponding topography. However, the peaks in friction and those in corresponding topography were displaced relative to each other. Variations in atomic-scale friction and the observed displacement has been explained by the variations in interatomic forces in the normal and lateral directions. Local variation in microscale friction is found to correspond to the local slope suggesting that a ratchet mechanism is responsible for this variation. Directionality in the friction is observed on both micro- and macro scales which results from the surface preparation and anisotropy in surface roughness. Microscale friction is generally found to be smaller than the macrofriction as there is less ploughing contribution in microscale measurements. Microscale friction is load dependent and friction values increase with an increase in the normal load approaching to the macrofriction at contact stresses higher than the hardness of the softer material. Wear rate for single-crystal silicon is approximately constant for various loads and test durations. However, for magnetic disks with a multilayered thin-film structure, the wear of the diamond like carbon overcoat is catastrophic. Breakdown of thin films can be detected with AFM. Evolution of the wear has also been studied using AFM. Wear is found to be initiated at nono scratches. AFM has been modified to obtain load-displacement curves and for nanoindentation hardness measurements with depth of indentation as low as 1 mm. Scratching and indentation on nanoscales are the powerful ways to screen for adhesion and resistance to deformation of ultrathin fdms. Detection of material transfer on a nanoscale is possible with AFM. Boundary lubrication studies and measurement of lubricant-film thichness with a lateral resolution on a nanoscale have been conducted using AFM. Self-assembled monolyers and chemically-bonded lubricant films with a mobile fraction are superior in wear resistance. Finally, AFM has also shown to be useful for nanofabrication/nanomachining. Friction and wear on micro-and nanoscales have been found to be generally smaller compared to that at macroscales. Therefore, micro/nanotribological studies may help def'me the regimes for ultra-low friction and near zero wear.