• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.756-775
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• 2023

This study was aimed at examining the characteristics of women's blue denim on the basis of design elements to provide fundamental data for fashion majors and fashion designers. Seven design elements were selected from previous studies to compare them with the following characteristics of blue denim: color (washing, dyeing), ornamentation (trimming, detailing, painting, and printing), and form modification, tearing, and ripping). Data from 1,520 photographs of the 2019 S/S to the 2023-24 F/W collections were collected through overlapping checks. The data were then subjected to frequency analysis using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (version 26). The results are as follows: The most frequent design method used in producing the denim items in our sample was washing, followed by modification, tearing, and ripping and detailing. The greatest change in denim design occurred in 2023, and more design element changes were observed in the F/W season than in the S/S season. Washing was used four times or more frequently than dyeing, while detailing was employed approximately 2 times more often than trimming. With respect to form, the most common approach was modification, followed by tearing and ripping.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.1-24
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• 2023

The art of carpet weaving is the most habitual form of traditional art in Azerbaijan, it reflects a rich inner world and occupies a special place in the history of a national culture's development. The Azerbaijani carpet has always stood out for its plots, ornaments, compositions, and high quality and the Azerbaijani people, faithful to their spiritual values, have protected and developed it throughout the centuries. In this article, several Ganja-Gazakh-type carpets from the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum collection and their artistic and technical characteristics are discussed. Specimens of material, sacred language, and ornamentation are considered. The deepest meaning is embodied in tamga in particular. Tamga is a unique phenomenon serving as an amulet, lineage sign, and self-identification of Turkic peoples. The Gazakh carpets of the Ganja-Gazakh type cover the Gazakh region of Azerbaijan, the Borchali region of Georgia, and the Goycha Lake region of Armenia. Karapapakh Azerbaijani Turks have inhabited these areas since ancient times. Tarakama (nomads) are often equated with the name Karapapakh (black hat). One of the densely populated regions of Tarakama is Gazakh. Gazakh, Garagoyunlu, Salahli, Shikhli, Kamarli, Damirchilar, Gaymagli, Goycali, Daghkasaman, Oysuzlu, Gachagan, and pile carpets with different compositions are woven in the Gazakh carpet weaving center. Large, simple in form, step-shaped or hook-like medallions, horn-shaped patterns, animal images, and stamps with symbols of ancient Turkic tribes characterize the Gazakh carpet weaving group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.959-969
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• 1997

This research is intended to help the development of new products and marketing strategies studying consumers' knowledge level and attitude towards original brand and the extension attitude related to the brand image. The detailed purposes of this study are as follow: First, it is to measure consumers' knowledge and attitude towards original brand. Second, it is to clarify the dimensions of the image about the original brand and extended brand product which is perceived by the consumer. Third, it is to meassure image consistency and product similarity between the original brand and extended product. The sample group consisted of female college students 393 in Seoul. Stratified sampling, based on major and grade of sturients and the structure of the college they were attending was used as sampling method. Questionnaires, which were selected from literature and proceeding researches published in Korea and abroad, were modified for this study, SAS Package was used for data analysis. The results observed in this study were as follow: 1. Consumers' knowledge level about original brand showed high among students majoring in clothing-related subjects and their general attitude proved to be positive. 2. Image factors of original brand were classified to dignity factor, personality/modernity factor, femininity factor, and ornamentation factor. Lipstick is considered to have high image consistency and product similarity. 3. Comparing the attitude before and after extension, extension to lipstick which showed high image consistency and product similarity received more positive reactions than one to bed cover sheet. 4. It was founded that although knowledge and attitude towards original brand with image consistency had no influence on the extension attitude, knowledge and attitude without image consistency influence the extension attitude.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1559-1570
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• 2008

Since brought into from the economic life of nomads, the felt, the target of this study, has been developed in various ways of giving the functions of class symbol as well of protection against the cold and of ornamentation. Therefore, the study on how the felt was developed in Joseon Dynasty and how different culture from nomadic tribes it formed is significant in comprehensively under,;landing the economic, social and natural environmental factors in the Dynasty. The felt named "Jeon" has been constantly appearing in Korea from the ancient time, but it was not produced actively in the early part of Joseon Dynasty. That's why it was not a climatic condition suitable for sheep-breeding, and the government managed sheep-breeding but it aimed primarily at not producing clothing materials but having memorial ceremonies. Since sheep-breeding was not widely spreaded, production of Jeon was limited and some part was imported from China, so it was one of rare valuable goods. Therefore, the felt of wools named "Yangmojeon", the colored felt named "Chaejeon", etc. were used as liking items in the high-class society, and their materials and components were a little different depending on the official post. On the other hand, people in the low-class society used to wear the felt hats made of cattle feathers and miscellaneous fur, named "Jeonlip" and "Beougeoji". Since the middle of Joseon Dynasty, use of the felt was divided into two groups according to the users and the function, along with successful spreading of cotton and development of market economy. The function of Jeon to protect against the cold was replaced by cotton, but the felt hats of Beongeoji, Jeonlip, etc. were worn by common people continuously. As seen above, it is considered that the felt culture in Joseon Dynasty was formed very differently from the nomadic culture, because of its historical and sociocultural characteristics, and it had unique developing progress among all available fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.20-46
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• 2003

This study analyzes the garment decorations in the history of western costume based on their kinds and techniques, and consider the beginning and the development of costume decoration. The purpose is to promote a historical understanding of modern ornamentation. Based on the theoretical background concerning the origin and purpose of costume decoration, its symbolism and its relationship with images, this study classified the techniques and kinds of ornament and considered each costumes by their decoration. 1. The ornament was originated from the primitive custom of coloring the skin for the purpose of protecting the body, symbolizing the tribe, indicating the class, and threatening the enemies. As this custom changed into the decoration on the body as a form of tattoos or physical transformations, the practice of ornament seems to begin as a display of one's authority and wealth as well as a human instinct to decorate oneself beautifully. 2. The basic purpose of ornament is to look attractive by decorating oneself with ornaments. Addition of decorative design to the garment tends to complement the practical aspects of the whole clothing, and elevate its value and originality. 3. From the past, ornament has been used as a symbol of wealth and status. Originated from the desire to display one´s authority and power and to receive respect from others, the people's interest in ornament have rising. 4. The kinds and techniques of ornament can be classified into the structural and applied decorations. The former is decorating a part of a garment, such as the neckline, cellar, cuffs, or pockets. The latter includes braids, laces and embroideries. These ornament are diverse in their details and techniques, and should consider both functional aspects of clothing and its decorative functions emphasizing the aesthetic expressions. In the above considerations, we can see that costume ornament was most splendid in the premodern times and it was the simplest in the ancient times. And we also saw the possibility that decorative techniques could be created almost limitlessly.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.53-69
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• 2004

Located in a rear garden of Changdeok Palace, Yeonkyeong-Dang is valued as the most characteristic building of the houses of aristocrats of the later Joseon Dynasty. The time of the construction has been much debated, however, it is perceived through this research that the construction was completed in September 1827(the 27nd year of king Sunjo's reign). The shape of the buildings during this period resembles a letter ㄷ as shown in the picture of Dong-Kweol. We previously described that the purpose of Yeonkyeong-Dang was to carry the portrait of king Yikjong while keeping the shape of building when it was first established until the 8th year of king Heonjong (1842). In 1865 (the 2nd year of king Gojong's reign), it was reconstructed with very different outlook which has remained the present shape. The characteristic features of the residences of aristocrats were reflected in newly reconstructed Yeonkyeong-Dang. The structure was largely divided into two quarters that occupied by male and female residents respectively. The two quarters were bordered by fences and added with a study and a pavilion. The reconstruction was conducted by king Gojong's father, Daewon- Goon and its purpose was to prepare a separate house for the king and queen before the kings wedding that was about to come. During the 19th century, building an imitation of houses of aristocrats became quite a trend in the palace. Built in 1847, Nakseon-Jae was precedented and followed by Yeonkyeong-Dang. Also later Geoncheong Palace was built in Kyeongbok Palace in 1873. All of the three buildings imitated houses of aristocrats. Divided residences of male and female sections and splendid decorations were common features. Nakseon-Jae was the smallest in the structure of spaces, ornamentation of details and its sizes, Yeonkyeong-Dang was the second and Geoncheong Palace was the most distinguished building. The constructions of these three buildings created an innovative architectural wave in the 19th century palace. Yeonkyeong-Dang was the building that mediated the new flow of architectural structure in the 19th century palace.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.129-139
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• 2000

The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

• Architectural research
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.127-137
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• 2015

A typology study is a comparative study of the physical characteristics of the built environment divided into distinct types such as architecture, culture, and environment. Lao vernacular dwellings were initially created based on the Lao people's behavior in terms of beliefs, traditional culture, lifestyle, and local wisdom with regard to the environment, climate, geography, and materials. The main research method used in this study is a comparative case study of three ethnic dwellings. The multiple data collection tools employed included second source data and primary data to analyze the findings of the unique characteristic typology of Lao vernacular dwellings. The objective of this paper is to compare the cultural and physical contexts, the patterns and origins of settlement, the architecture, the cultures, and the local indigenous knowledge related to the dwellings and settlement of the three main ethnic groups. These three groups are rich in tradition and their documentation is therefore essential for the intellectual history of the society of Lao; this research could therefore aid in enhancing our understanding of the three typologies of Lao vernacular architecture and settlement within the historical and sociocultural contexts of each ethnicity to convey an understanding of Lao vernacular dwellings by analyzing their different types to help identify the differences and similarities among architectural artifacts by recognizing the invisible connections between them, whereby the figurative ornamentation is based on the relationship between man and nature. This study also provides a glimpse of the living culture and characteristic features of Lao vernacular architecture.

• Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.26-32
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• 2000

Monospecific red tide by a toxic dinoflagellate belonging to the genus Alexandrium occurred at Chindong Bay in the southern coast of Korea and continued from April 6th to 15th in 1997. The ratio of its cell number to total phytoplankton cell number was much higher than $95\%$. This organism was identified as Alexandrium tamarense, although slight morphological differences were found comparing to the original and successive descriptions of the species. We found neither anterior nor posterior attachment pores in these cells of the bloom population. The occurrence of red tide caused by A. tamarense was first reported in Korea. Its plate formula is Po, Pc, 4', 6"c, 8s, 5"' and 2"". Thecal plates are thin with pore-like ornamentation. In those plates, the anterior part of the first apical plate (1') is narrower and its posterior end has sometimes a block-like accessory, but this variation was considered within the range of the morphological variability of this taxon. The cell density during the red tide exhibited a wide range of variation by the depth of water column, ranging from $2\times10^6$ cells$l^{-1}$ to $5\times10^6$ cells·$l^{-1}$. Water temperature varied from 11.8 to $12.3^{\circ}C$. Toxicity of A. tamarense during red tide was measured as $8.8\times10^5$. $MU\;\cdot\;cell^{-1}$ by mouse bioassay.