• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.112-122
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• 2007

This study reviewed the costume mainly on the Joseon Giroyondo(耆老宴圖) between 17th 18th Century. In Joseon Dynasty, they produced paintings to commemorate the meeting of Girohwe(耆老會), namely Giroyon(耆老宴); this painting is Giroyondo. The feature of Giroyon depended on political purpose and social phenomenon. Therefore, the composition of figures in Giroyondo and their costume were seen differently. By its character, Giroyondo was classified into official one from Giroso(耆老所), private one arranged by the participants and Court Giroyon(宮中腸宴圖). People figured in Giroyondo are roughly divided into costume in Girosin(耆老臣) officials and minor officials. Girosin officials wore Hongdalyong(紅團領) and Samo(紗帽) in official Giroyondo while they wore Hungnib(黑笠.) and Jingnyong(直領) in private Giroyondo. In Court Giroyon, which was for classy and formal Court event, they wore Dalyong(團領) and Samo but in colors of blue and green. Minor officials were observed in two categories; those who wore Samo and Gakdae(角帶), and those in Dugeon(頭巾). However, they were not showed up in private Giroyondo.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.131-142
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• 2006

This research has been done based on the Jeon Si Gwa(田柴科) regulation, the monumental inscription material and the former studies. The background of adapting the official uniform regulation in the early Goryeo Dynasty has been surveyed. Differentiating criterion in the official uniform color like purple(紫衫), red(丹衫), red(緋衫), and green(綠衫) has been studied. The official rank had been classified by the color of the official uniform in the early Goryeo uniform regulation. The lower class had worn purple(紫衫). The purple wearing class had not been the government post but the official rank. Those who worked for the Palace had worn purple color since purple color represented the Imperial Palace on which TAI-IL(太一), that is, the highest one of gods dwelt. Those who had worn red(丹色) in the monumental inscription had worked for the job associated with the military service or Hanlim savant(翰林學士) of Kwangmun Academy(光文院) and Hanlim Academy(翰林元). Dan Seo(丹書) which recorded King's commands also means the monumental inscription. In the Goryeosa(高麗史), the military class had been only in Dan Sam(丹衫). That means those class worn Dan Sam(丹衫) could have been as the strong supportive class for the Dynasty. In the early Goryeo Dynasty, the four colored uniform regulation had followed the enforcing policy of the royal authority. It has been assumed that the uniform regulation had been used as a way of enrolling the new supporting class into the existing official system. Dan Sam(丹衫) which had been worn only in the early Goryeo can be seen as the special class for strengthening the royal authority.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2013

This paper researches the system of the official's gongbok(公服) during the reign of emperor Hongwu(洪武帝) in the Ming dynasty, and it is based on DaMingLing(大明令), DaMingJili(大明集禮), HongwuLizhi(洪武禮制), ZhusiZhizhang(諸司職掌), DaMingHuidian(大明 會典), MingTaizuShilu(明太祖實錄), and MingShi(明史). Official's gongbok is consisted of clothes, belt(帶), bokdu, scepter(笏), and black shoes. The system of official's gongbok wa schanged through three stages. First, the system of the Yuan dynasty(元代) was maintained in January, 1368, which was the first year of the emperor's reign. Second, the gongbok system was established in November, 1368. The system stated that the clothes had to be red-colored(赤色) regardless of rank and the belt was divided into okdai(玉帶), seodai (犀帶), gumdai(金帶), and kwangsoeundai (光素銀帶). Third, the system was revised in June, 1391, which was the 24th year of his reign. According to the rank, the clothing colors were divided into scarlet(緋色), blue(靑色), and green(綠色). The belt was divided into okdai, seodai, gumdai, and ogaggai(烏角帶). 'Hongmu26nyunjung(洪武26年定)' recorded on the Wanli's edition(萬曆本) of the DaMingHuidian has the meaning of ZhusiZhizhang regulations.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.70-81
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• 2005

This paper researches the system of official uniforms and characteristics of the system based on Ming-Shi(明史), Da-Ming-Hui-Dian(大明會典) and Hong-Wu-Li-Zhi(洪武禮制) in the emperor Hong-wu(洪武帝) of Ming dynasty(明). The system could be divided in to three terms, i.e., the early (initial), the middle and the end (last) terms. In the first(1368) & the third year of the emperor's reign (1370) the system of official uniforms was simple f9r his people not to be luxurious and for revived the system of official uniforms of the Han dynasty(漢) and annulled the system of the Yuan dynasty(元), be-cause the country was not stable yet. During the middle term of Hong-wu, the 14th (1381) to 16th (1383) year of his reign, people attained luxurious lives and developed a strong sense of rank as the country became more stable. As a result, the system became more complicated when the emperor used the costumes to represent political and social ranking. In the end of the emperor's age, the 23rd (1390) to 26th (1393), it reveals his strong intention to establish a system of costumes that separated the ruler from the ruled. He wanted to strengthen the power of Emperor for his little grandson, Jian-wen(建文帝), who would succeed to the throne and would have absolute power. These changes became fundamental to the Ming dynasty's costume system and the Ming dynasty kept them for long time.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1322-1331
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 International Conference & Exhibition
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• pp.41-44
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• 2004

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.131-144
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• 1997

This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok and Sangbok in the system of official outfit of the Koryo dyn-asty which has not yet fully studied in the history of Koren dress and its ornaments. Even in this difficult circumstances the sys-tem of dress and its ornaments can be under-stood with the help of remaining Buddhi-stliterature. Thus the system of official outfit in the Koryo dynasty has been studied here with some documentary records such as Koryo-dokyung Koryosa-yeobokji (The His-tory of Dress And Its Ornaments in The Koryo Dynasty) and so on. As the Koryo dynasty de-veloped her international relationships continu-ously with her neighbouring nation which were geographically closely connected so the systems of official outfit in the Chinese dyn-asty of Sung had to be studied and compared with, In the Koryo dynasty the same four colour system of purple red, deep red and green had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 not using the blue colour from the four colour system of purple Chinese red green and blue of the Sung dynasty. The four colour system of purple deep red green and black under the regin of the King Euijong was exactly the same as that of official outfit of the Sung dynasty in he year of 1078 the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae is a sure sign of influence of the system of Sung dynasty. Even though Koryo was invaded by Yuan druing the period of the regin of the King Chungyul the four colour system was not changed of purple deep red. green and black along with the same Dae-sudanryung(long sleeve and round collar). In 1387 the thirteenth year of the King Woo of the Koryo dynasty Pumdae was used ofor different official ranks and the sys-tem of wearing Samo and Dayung was established for the official outfit of every government officers.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

This paper was built by following next steps. First, based on the records of the Tongshinsa, the official diplomatic mission Joseon dispatched to Japan, the actual conditions of wearing a Danryung, a official robe, in the 18th century were researched. Then the difference of wearing state between the missions - in 1719, 1748 and 1764- was found and the reason why was analyzed. In result two distinctions were found: 1) A black Danryung was worn in 1719 at the banquets and while receiving an official letter of reply, but a red Danryung, Gongbok or Sibok on the later trips. 2) In 1764 travel records there was some confusion of the names Gongbok and Sibok, which denote the same item of robes, according to the writer. The reason why those changes and confusion were caused is analyzed as follows: 1) After the Japanese Invasion(1592) and the Manchu Invasion of Joseon(1636), a black Danryung replaced the Gongbok for a while. But after the mid-18th century, when the Gongbok was revived, that was reappeared in the official ceremonies. 2) In the mid-18th century, both Gongbok and Sibok system had been revised. But because both color system was similar, those revision became a cause of confusion between Gongbok and Sibok. For a while all ministers wore red Gongbok and Sibok, but after those revision the color of official's robe was changed by officials' rank: the higher ranking officials' Gongbok and Sibok are red, the lower ranking officials' are bluish green.