• Title/Summary/Keyword: Ocean Waves

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Probability Distribution of Nonlinear Random Wave Heights Using Maximum Entropy Method (최대 엔트로피 방법을 이용한 비선형 불규칙 파고의 확률분포함수)

  • 안경모
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.204-210
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    • 1998
  • This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

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Traveltime estimation of first arrivals and later phases using the modified graph method for a crustal structure analysis (지각구조 해석을 위한 수정 그래프법을 이용한 초동 및 후기 시간대 위상의 주시 추정)

  • Kubota, Ryuji;Nishiyama, Eiichiro;Murase, Kei;Kasahara, Junzo
    • Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.105-113
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    • 2009
  • The interpretation of observed waveform characteristics identified in refraction and wide-angle reflection data increases confidence in the crustal structure model obtained. When calculating traveltimes and raypaths, wavefront methods on a regular grid based on graph theory are robust even with complicated structures, but basically compute only first arrivals. In this paper, we develop new algorithms to compute traveltimes and raypaths not only for first arrivals, but also for fast and later reflection arrivals, later refraction arrivals, and converted waves between P and S, using the modified wavefront method based on slowness network nodes mapped on a multi-layer model. Using the new algorithm, we can interpret reflected arrivals, Pg-later arrivals, strong arrivals appearing behind Pn, triplicated Moho reflected arrivals (PmP) to obtain the shape of the Moho, and phases involving conversion between P and S. Using two models of an ocean-continent transition zone and an oceanic ridge or seamount, we show the usefulness of this algorithm, which is confirmed by synthetic seismograms using the 2D Finite Difference Method (2D-FDM). Characteristics of arrivals and raypaths of the two models differ from each other in that using only first-arrival traveltime data for crustal structure analysis involves risk of erroneous interpretation in the ocean-continent transition zone, or the region around a ridge or seamount.

An Experimental Study on the Stability of Breakwater Head by the Wave Directional Effects (입사파의 방향성효과에 의한 방파제 제두부의 안정성에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • SOHN Byung-Kyu;KIM Hong-Jin;RYU Cheong-Ro
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • v.34 no.6
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    • pp.713-719
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    • 2001
  • The aim of this study is to check the application criteria of the conventional techniques and clarify the effects of breaker depth, seabed conditions on the stability in relation to the effects of uncertainty of storm duration and directional irregular waves. The typical damage modes were divided by the direct wave force on the armor unit and by the local scouring around the toe of a breakwater head by the model experiments. The destruction modes are defined, and some criteria on the damage modes and scouring/deposition at the toe of a breakwater head in relating the wave-bottom-structural conditions can be checked using the multi-directonal irregular wave generator system. According to the results, it is emphasized that the 3-D effects on the stability should be analyzed in the design of multi-purpose/function coastal structures in consideration of the evaluation of spatial variation of damage modes and hydraulic characteristics as well as the wave distribution along the structures.

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A Study of Ship Wave Crest Pattern (항주파의 파봉에 대한 연구)

  • Lee, Byeong Wook;Lee, Changhoon
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.44-52
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    • 2016
  • Kelvin's (1887) theory that predicts position of ship wave crest can be applied only in deep water. Havelock's (1907) theory that predicts cusp locus angle can be applied in whole water depths but cannot predict the position of ship wave crest. In this study, using the linear dispersion fully, we develop the equations to predict ship wave crest in whole water depths and, using the developed equations, we predict cusp locus angle. We simulate ship wave propagation using FLOW-3D in the condition of Johnson's (1985) hydraulic experiment and find that the cusp locus angles predicted by the present theory are close to numerical results of FLOW-3D and hydraulic experimental data. We also simulate for various conditions and compare numerical results of distances between adjacent wave crests and values predicted by the present theory. For Froude number less than unity, the numerical results are close to the values predicted by the theory. For Froude number greater than unity, the constant value of $C_1$ which determines the distance between the ship and the first ship wave crest is almost equal to zero and the numerical results of distances between adjacent ship waves excluding the first ship are close to the values predicted by the theory.

The Effect of Internal Row on Marine Riser Dynamics (Riser의 내부유체 흐름이 Riser 동적반응에 미치는 영향)

  • Hong, Nam-Seeg
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.75-90
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    • 1995
  • A mathematical model for the dynamic analysis of a riser system with the inclusion of internal flow and nonlinear effects due to large structural displacements is developed to investigate the effect of internal flow on marine riser dynamics. The riser system accounts fir the nonlinear boundary conditions and includes a steady flow inside the pipe which is modeled as an extensible or inextensible. tubular beam subject to nonlinear three dimensional hydrodynamic loads such as current or wave excitation. Galerkin's finite element approximation and time incremental operator are implemented to derive the matrix equation of equilibrium for the finite element system and the extensibility or inextensibility condition is used to reduce degree of freedom of the system and the required computational time in the case of a nonlinear model. The algorithm is implemented to develop computer programs used in several numerical applications. The investigations of the effect of infernal flow on riser vibration due to current or wave loading are performed according to the change of various parameters such as top tension, internal flow velocity, current velocity, wave period, and so on. It is found that the effect of internal flow can be controlled by the increase of top tension. However, careful consideration has to be given in the design point particularly for the long riser under the harmonic loading such as waves. And it is also found that the consideration of nonlinear effects due to large structural displacements increases the effect of internal flow on riser dynamics.

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Characteristics of a CFRP Cruiser's Windage Area by Stability Assessment (탄소섬유강화복합재료(CFRP) 레저선박의 횡요저항력 평가에 의한 상부구조물 풍압면적 특성)

  • Kim, Do-Yun;Lee, Chang-Woo;Lee, Dong-Kun;Oh, Dae-Kyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.774-780
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    • 2014
  • This research aims to investigate the superstructure characteristics of the CFRP-yachts whose hulls are made of the light-weight material CFRP. CFRP-yachts, which belong to light-weight yachts, have a tendency of having very small superstructures compared to other vessels of the same length, and such a tendency is closely related to stability. In this research, a comparison of shape characteristics was made between common composite-plastic yachts and CFRP-yachts to find out the shape characteristics of CFRP-yacht. In the meantime, a case study was conducted concerning shape changes in superstructure to understand the effect of such changes on stability. For this purpose the shapes of a total of 10 GFRP-yachts and CFRP-yachts were comparatively analyzed, and the result showed the tendency of their hulls and superstructures. Whereas the case study on stability assessment involved various superstructure shapes of CFRP yachts, for assessment by superstructure size. Stability assessment was according to ISO 12217 (Small craft Stability and buoyancy assessment and categorization). A program was also developed based on stability assessment process due to rolling in beam waves and wind, and it was applied to the case study. The result of the case study showed that the windage area distribution tendency of the yachts whose hulls were made of the light-weight material CFRP was similar to that of the GFRP-yachts, but that the superstructure shapes of the CFRP-yachts were about 50% smaller than those of the GFRP-yachts. In addition, the stability assessment involving various superstructure areas of the CFRP-yachts showed that problems with stability occurred when their superstructure sizes were similar to, or larger by about 10% than, those of the GFRP-yachts.

Sea Surface Temperature Time Lag Due to the Extreme Heat Wave of August 2016 (2016년 8월 폭염에 따른 표층수온의 지연시간 고찰)

  • Kim, Ju-Yeon;Han, In-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.677-683
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    • 2017
  • In this study, we examined responses to Sea Surface Temperature (SST) as the result of an intensive heat wave that took place in August 2016 and the cross correlation between SST and Air Temperature (AT) in August 2016. The data used included the SST of 8 ocean buoys, provided by the National Institute of Fisheries Science, and the AT of AWS near those 8 ocean buoys recorded every hour. To identify an appropriate data period, on FIR filter was applied. Two locations in the south sea were selected to be observed over similar a period, with a high correlation coefficient of about 0.8 and a time lag of about 50 hours between AT and SST. For the yellow sea, due to shallow waters and tidal currents, SST showed a rapid response caused by changes in AT. The east sea showed a negative correlation between AT and SST because of significant water depth and marine environment factors. By identifying the time lag between AT and SST, damage to aquatic organisms can be minimized, and we expect to develop a rapid response system for damage to the fishery industry caused by extreme heat waves.

Beach Deformation Caused by Typhoon Chaba in 2016 Along the Manseongri Coast Related Coastal Improvement Project (연안정비사업이 수행된 만성리 해수욕장에서 2016년 태풍 차바에 의한 해빈변화)

  • Park, Il Heum;Park, Wan-Gyu;Jeong, Seung Myong;Kang, Tae-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.710-718
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    • 2017
  • After Typhoon Chaba (No.18, 2016) collided with Manseongri Beach, a coastal improvement project was carried out since strong external forces such as waves, storm surges and wave-induced currents were observed to cause beach deformation. The shoreline, beach area and beach volume were periodically surveyed. On the basis of this field data, the beach deformation that occurred at Manseongri Beach has been formally described. Over three months after beach nourishment work began, the beaches were gradually stabilized in terms of natural external forces. However, this stabilization was interrupted by Typhoon Chaba. After two months of typhoon weather, the beach returned to a stable state and no changes were observed until one year after the beach recovery work. Just after the typhoon hit, the shoreline receded from the northern side, where no reduction of external forces occurred, while the rear beach area submerged by breakwater advanced. Also, the beach volume decreased by $3,395m^3$ after the typhoon, due to erosion that occurred on the northern beach, with deposition taking place on the southern backshore area. Therefore, it has been concluded that the coastal improvement project undertaken at Manseongri Beach has significantly contributed to conservation in areas of wave-dominant sediment transport.

Acoustic Full-waveform Inversion Strategy for Multi-component Ocean-bottom Cable Data (다성분 해저면 탄성파 탐사자료에 대한 음향파 완전파형역산 전략)

  • Hwang, Jongha;Oh, Ju-Won;Lee, Jinhyung;Min, Dong-Joo;Jung, Heechul;Song, Youngsoo
    • Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.38-49
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    • 2020
  • Full-waveform inversion (FWI) is an optimization process of fitting observed and modeled data to reconstruct high-resolution subsurface physical models. In acoustic FWI (AFWI), pressure data acquired using a marine streamer has mainly been used to reconstruct the subsurface P-wave velocity models. With recent advances in marine seismic-acquisition techniques, acquiring multi-component data in marine environments have become increasingly common. Thus, AFWI strategies must be developed to effectively use marine multi-component data. Herein, we proposed an AFWI strategy using horizontal and vertical particle-acceleration data. By analyzing the modeled acoustic data and conducting sensitivity kernel analysis, we first investigated the characteristics of each data component using AFWI. Common-shot gathers show that direct, diving, and reflection waves appearing in the pressure data are separated in each component of the particle-acceleration data. Sensitivity kernel analyses show that the horizontal particle-acceleration wavefields typically contribute to the recovery of the long-wavelength structures in the shallow part of the model, and the vertical particle-acceleration wavefields are generally required to reconstruct long- and short-wavelength structures in the deep parts and over the whole area of a given model. Finally, we present a sequential-inversion strategy for using the particle-acceleration wavefields. We believe that this approach can be used to reconstruct a reasonable P-wave velocity model, even when the pressure data is not available.

Sliding Mode Control with Super-Twisting Algorithm for Surge Oscillation of Mooring Vessel System (슈퍼트위스팅 슬라이딩모드를 이용한 선박계류시스템의 동적제어)

  • Lee, Sang-Do;Lee, Bo-Kyeong;You, Sam-Sang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.24 no.7
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    • pp.953-959
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    • 2018
  • This paper deals with controlling surge oscillations of a mooring vessel system under large external disturbances such as wind, waves and currents. A control synthesis based on Sliding Mode Control (SMC) with a Super-Twisting Algorithm (STA) has been applied to suppress nonlinear surge oscillations of a two-point mooring system. Despite the advantages of robustness against parameter uncertainties and disturbances for SMC, chattering is the main drawback for implementing sliding mode controllers. First-order SMC shows convergence within the desired level of accuracy, in which chattering is the main obstacle related to the destructive phenomenon. Alternatively, STA completely eliminates chattering phenomenon with high accuracy even for large disturbances. SMC based on STA is an effective tool for the motion control of a nonlinear mooring system because it avoids the chattering problems of a first-order sliding mode controller. In addition, the error trajectories of controlled mooring systems implemented by means of STA form in the bounded region. Finally, the control gain effect of STA can be observed in sliding surface and position trajectory errors.