• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.145-152
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• 2008

The initial wave lengths of tsunamis can be several tens to hundreds kilometers. Thus, the importance of the frequency dispersive effects in proportion to variation of the wave length, and should be properly considered in numerical simulation of tsunami propagation for a better accuracy. Recently, a practical dispersion-correction scheme has been developed by adding dispersion-correction terms(Cho et al., 2007). The new model employing the numerical technique has been verified by comparing numerical results with available analytic solutions, however, the new model has not yet been applied on a real topography. In this study, the new model is applied on a real topography and its applicability is examined. To study the applicability of the new model, two historical tsunami events are simulated for Sokcho, Mukho and Pohang harbors, with the tide gage records. Numerical results, the arrival time and the maximum water level at the tidal stations, are compared with observed data at each harbor.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.65-70
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• 2009

The hybrid numerical model is developed by combining BEM that can calculate the wave motion rapidly under the potential theory and CADMAS-SURF that solves Navier-Stokes equations for the free surface variation near the structure, In the hybrid model the calculation of wave motion in a wide field of wave reflection for deep water area is conducted by BEM but for shallow water area by CADMAS-SURF. Especially the hybrid model can calculate random wave motions for long term period more rapidly with almost similar accuracy than the calculation of wave motion which was carried out by CADMAS-SURF only. In this study the coupling model was applied to the calculation of the strong nonlinear wave motion such as wave runup and overtopping at the coastal structure on the mild-slope bottom and the results of numerical model were compared with the Toyosima's experiments of regular wave runup and Goda's design diagram of ramdom wave overtopping, respectively.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.9-18
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• 1987

A number of hydrographic studies and some recent current measurements around Chejudo Island suggest an existence of a clockwise residual flow in the west and north coasts of the island all the year round. On the eastern side of the island the Tsushinma Current flows northward and northeastward. The contribution of tide-induced residual currents to the observed residual. flow around the island was examined here through numerical solution of the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow-water equations. The calculated tide-induced residual currents show a clockwise circulation around the island. Significant residuals of 2-4cms$\^$-1/are confined over sloping bottom topography around t he island and the far-field residuals are negligibly small. The inclusion of a permanent current into the model was also attempted in order to see the effects of the Tsushima Current system on the residual circulation around the is land. It was found that combined effects of tide-induced residuals and the permanent current field associatedwith the Tsushima Current explain qualitatively not only the observed clock wise residuals in the west and north coasts but also the northward flow on the eastern side of the island.

• Journal of the Earthquake Engineering Society of Korea
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.41-55
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• 2003

A dynamically-interfaced multi-grid finite difference model for simulation of tsunamis in the East Sea(Choi et al.) was established and further applied to produce detailed feature of coastal inundations along the whole eastern coast of Korea. The computational domain is composed of several sub-regions with different grid sizes connected in parallel of inclined directions with 16 innermost nested models. The innermost sub-region represents the coastal alignment reasonably well and has a grid size of about 30 meters. Numerical simulations have been performed in the framework of shallow-water equations(linear, as well as nonlinear) over the plane or spherical coordinate system, depending on the dimensions of the sub-region. Results of simulations show the general agreements with the observed data of run-up height for both tsunamis. The evolution of the distribution function of tsunami heights is studied numerically and it is shown that it tends to the log-normal curve for long distance from the source.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.429-441
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• 2011

In the southeast coastal zone of Yellow Sea, the tide characteristics showing ebb-dominant tide and tidal flow were confirmed by analysis of observed tide and tidal currents. Physical factors generating asymmetric tide were reviewed. Influence of bottom shear stress, tidal flat, and nonlinear terms in shallow water equations was investigated by two-dimensional tide modeling. The model results gave good agreements with observed tides, but the amplitude of simulated $M_4$ tide was less than that of observed tide. The tidal flats existing in the study area widely have great effect on the generation of nonlinear tide. The M4 tide is mainly generated near the tidal flats. The deletion of tidal flats prevents the production of the M4 tide. We can conclude that the wide tidal flats is a primary cause of tide asymmetry in the study area.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.453-466
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• 2008

In order to examine the generation mechanism of long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea and to understand the amplification process of the long ocean waves, sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind data observed every minute from 2007 March 29 to 2007 April 1 were analyzed and onedimensional numerical ocean model experiments were performed. An atmospheric pressure jump propagated southeastward from Backryungdo to Yeonggwang along the west coast of Korea with speed of $13{\sim}27\;m/s$ between 2007 March 30 23:00 and 2007 April 1 1:30. Average magnitude of pressure jump was 4.2 hPa. As a moving atmospheric jump propagated from north to south along the coast, long ocean waves were generated and the sea level abnormally rose or fell at Anheung, Kunsan, Wido and Yeonggwang. Average amplitude of sea level rise (or fall) was about 113.6 cm. In a one-dimensional numerical ocean model, nonlinear shallow water equations were numerically integrated and a moving atmospheric pressure jump with traveling speed of 24 m/s was used as an external force. While the atmospheric pressure jump travels over 60 m depth ocean, a long ocean wave is generated. Because the propagation speed of the atmospheric jump is almost equal to that of the long ocean wave, Proudman resonance occurs and the long ocean wave amplifies. As the atmospheric pressure jump moves into the coastal area shallower than 60 m, the speed of the long ocean wave decreases and Proudman resonance effect decreases. However, the amplitude of the long ocean wave increases and wave length becomes shorter because of shoaling effect. When the long ocean wave hits the land boundary, amplitude of the long ocean wave drastically amplifies due to reflection. Data analysis and numerical experiments suggest that the southeastward propagation of an atmospheric pressure jump over the shallow ocean, which is a necessary condition for Proudaman resonance, generated the long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea on 2007 March 31 and the ocean waves amplified due to shoaling effect in the coastal area and reflection at the shore.