• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.133-144
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to investigate the absorbance of the Shikonin, one of the major purple pigments, and the stability against the effect of light, $O_2$, and temperature. The effect of mordant and mordanting condition to color and color-fastness is compared and analysed through the color-fastness-test, color-difference value-test, and IR-test. The results were as follows; 1. The absorbance of Shikonin was examinated through 6 kinds of solutions and distilled water. Shikonin was absorbed by solutions rather easily than distilled water. 2. The light effect to Shikonin indicated that the solution with the light was more stable than that without it. 3. The effect of $O_2$ to Shikonin showed that the solution with the $O_2$ was more stable that without it $O_2$. 4. Shikonin -methyl alcohol solution was stable in $25^{\circ}C$. It was unstable in $60^{\circ}C$ and $100^{\circ}C$ with lowered absorbance and changed colors. 5. Color-fastness test to silk and cotton indicated washing color-fastness and perspiration color-fastness was more than 3 grade. But the light color-fastness and crocking color-fastness was low. 6. The comparison between non -colored sample and colored-sample showed the latter was better in fastness. 7. Mordant as $Alk(SO_4)_2{\cdot}24H_2O$ and $AlCl_3{\cdot}6H_2O$ was better than anything else in fastness. 8. Color-difference value-test indicated that the mordant which had the jade green color, the original purple pigment color, was the best in use. 9. The best way to extract the original purple pigment color was in $25^{\circ}C$, because extracted dyeing solution by Soxhlet had the bluish color.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.141-149
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• 2018

This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of eco-friendly leather dyeing by utilizing food wastes. Natural dyeing of eel skin was attempted using onion peels which have been used commonly for natural dyeing of textile fabrics. Eel skin is a by-product from fishery processing and is used mainly for making leather products. The colorant was extracted from onion peels in boiling water, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Dyeing of eel skin was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, drape stiffness and colorfastness. The optimum dyeing conditions were $60^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 60min of dyeing time at 1:100($H_2O$ 90%: ethanol 10%) of bath ratio. The onion peels produced yellowish color on eel skin. The pre-mordanting was effective than the post-mordanting. As a result of the drape stiffness measurement, the Fe-mordanted sample was somewhat stiffer comparing to other mordanted samples. The light fastness of the non-mordant dye was excellent in 3-4 grade. Drycleaning fastness and rubbing fastness showed excellent results, but fastness was not significantly improved by mordanting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.702-708
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.47-57
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• 2007

This study focused on the properties natural dyeing and natural material and on the development of functional material for well-being in apparel industry. Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini is used as natural dyeing material which had been reported that have curable effect for unbalanced immunity, geriatric diseases like urinary tract system, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, tinnitus, hyperhidrosis and women's diseases like hypermenorrhea. And this material also has anti-cancer effect so that can restraint cancer cells. 3 kinds tester of cotton, wool and silk are dyed by boiled with each dye (flower, fruits, bark of tree) as first dyeing and dried in the shade. These testers are done by post-mordanting method. Aluminium Potassium(Alk(SO4)2), Cuprie Sulfate($CuSO4{\cdot}5H2O$), Stannous Chloride($SnCl2{\cdot}2H2O$), Ferrous Sulfate($FeCl2{\cdot}4H2O$), Titanium Sulfate 24% aqueous solution(Ti(SO4)2) are used as mordants. Dyeing results of Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini flower and bark are shown as yellow color series. And dyeing result of fruits is pink color series. Silk shows the best dyeing property. As the point of view for dyeing property, Ti, Sn, Fe would be the properchoice for mordant. Following results are extracted in this study. Yellow color is resulted in dyeing with Cornus officinalis flower as non-mordanting condition. Yellowish red color is come from dyeing with Comus officinalis fruit as non-mordanting condition. Grayish yellow tone is resulted in dyeing with bark as non-mordanting condition. Orange tone color with Ti-mordanting, green tone color with Sn-mordanting and gray tone color with Fe-mordanting is resulted respectively. However light-fastness of Comus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is very low as 1 or 2 level in non-mordanting condition, Comus officinalis flower dyeing is turned out 3 or 4 level and fruit dyeing is 4 or 5 level, bark dyeing is 2 or 3 level with Ti-mordanting respectively. Eventually Comus officinalis fruit has the best light-colorfastness property among all of dyes. dry cleaning colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, perspiration-colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, With these results, this study could conclude that dye-ability, colorfastness problem is getting better after mordanting process and practical usage would be possible.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.27
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• pp.13-19
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was the efficient use of the black rice bran for dyeing textiles. For this purpose, we investigated proper extracting conditions of black rice bran, dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. To find proper extracting condition of black rice bran, we extracted black rice bran with water at different temperatures($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), different extracting pH(pH3, pH4, pH5, pH6) and extracting time(20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 180min.). Also we investigated the effect of dyeing time(1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6hr.), dyeing temperature($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$) and mordanting method(non, pre, sim, post) to examine dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. As a result, when the extracting temperature and time were $80^{\circ}C$, 3hr., respectively, extracting was best. And the higher the extracting concentration, the more the extracting amount. As the dyeing temperature and time were higher and longer, the dyeability of silk fabrics was better. With mordant, the dyeability was improved and when using premordant method better, the K/S value was maximized. The laundering fastness of the silk fabrics dyed with black rice bran was estimated to have a good grade of 3~4, however, the light fastness was poor to have a grade of 1~2.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.136-148
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• 2007

African marigold is a common plant easily available in many flower beds. It has been reported as a practical and prospective resource of dyes since the dyes can be extracted from their bodies as well as petals. In this research, cotton and ramie fabrics which are made from natural cellulose were dyed using the extract of the African Marigold which is a variety of marigold. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants. Dyeability was evaluated by examining and measuring surface color, K/S value, and the changes in the maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. For the dyeing with marigold extract, the color tone did not differ by pre-mordanting and non-mordanting. Reaction with post-mordanting was excellent, which was colored in various yellow series. The best dyeability was achieved in dye solution of pH 6.5-7.0 which is not conditioned. The largest K/S value and color difference were obtained in tin mordanting. The dye uptake was greatly increased in chitosan pre-treated mordanting compared with the post-mordanting without chitosan pre-treatment. Due to its high heat resistance, African Marigold extract is easy for dye extraction and dyeing, and its dyeability is excellent for natural cellulose fibers. Also, colorfastness was proved to be practically usable.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.16-25
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• 2012

As the test results for surface color, dyeing durability, antibiosis of cotton fabrics and silk fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract, the following conclusions were obtained. The surface color of all the dyed fabrics was confirmed mostly as a GY system. As the result of chrominance(${\Delta}E_{ab}$) measurement, in the case of cotton fabrics the dyed fabrics treated with $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ mordant showed the highest value and in the case of silk fabrics the non-mordant dyed fabrics showed the highest value. The dyeing durability of test fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract are as follows. As the test results of colorfastness to laundry for cotton dyed fabrics, the discoloration degree showed 1st-2nd grade and the contamination degree showed 4th-5th grade. As the test result of colorfastness to dry cleaning for silk dyed fabrics, the contamination degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to acid artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to alkaline artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to sunlight showed from 1st to 2nd grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade in dry process and from 2nd-3rd to 4th-5th grade in wet process. As the test results of antibiosis, the decrease rate of germs to virus Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus showed at least more than 99% after the wash of 10 times. As the test results of antifungal activity to mycete Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Aspergillus niger, the both cotton and silk dyed fabrics didn't gain the significant antifungal effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1493-1499
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• 2001

This paper investigated the dyeabiltiy and surface color of Han Jee dyed with Gardenia extract after mordanted with mordants under the various dyeing conditions. The results obtained were as follows 1) λmax of the dyeing Han Jee dyed with Gardenia appeared at 660 and 710nm. 2)K/s value of dyeing Han Jee was increased when dyeing condition, temperature, time was higher. 3) Surface color of Han Jee with mordants changed differently according to the mordants used : 3.2Y by Aluminum acetate, 2.0GY by Copper sulfate, 9.5YR by Iron sulfate. 3.4Y by Tin chloride, and 4.5Y by non-mordanting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.121-132
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• 1996

This study showed the proper pigment extract in the Phe. Dyeing which is the basic dye of the natural plants dyeing,. Also it compared and examined the K/S the promotion of the color fastness and the effect of color difference change were attended by mordants and method of mordanting. 1. The most absorbance of Phellodendron. sol-ution is 330nm berberine is 430nm. 2. The best and proper temperature to extrat Phe,. was 80 and dyeing solution for 24 hours. 3. The pH effect was stable in the absorbances and color differences change. 4. Mordanted group increased the absorbances compared to non-mordanted sample. In case depth the most absorbance of Al. Sn. K. Cu and C. A solution were in 3% Fe and Cr were in 5%. In the color difference change they became dark reduced greenish and increased yellowish when their absorbances were in 3% 5. K./S was recoginzed by tainnin and fe, K/S was more increased pre-mordants than post-mordants. 6. Fe is the unchangable mordant in the color difference change and pre-mordants is more stable than post-mordants in the difference color. 7. Generally light C. F indicated more than grade 2 and light C. F, was much improved in post-mordanted by alumium potassium potass-ium dichromate. Washing C.F was improved in mordanted by tainnin and ferrous suulfate mordanted group was better than non-mordanted sample. Perspir-ation C,F was more stable in acid than alkali. Dry cleaning C.F indicated more than grade. 4.