• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.88-95
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• 2016

This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ${\geq}$non mordant.

• International journal of advanced smart convergence
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 2019

I reviewed about dyeing fastness and functional properties of the non-mordant dyed cotton and iron mordant dyed cotton with astringent persimmon juice. In the UV-VIS spectrum of astringent persimmon juice, the maximum absorption wavelength of the juice was 272.0 nm, which was a characteristic peak of tannin. In dyeing fastness, light fastness of the non-mordant dyed cotton was a little low at grade 2~3. But by the iron mordant treatment, the light fastness was good at grade 4. Dry cleaning fastness to discoloration and contamination was excellent at grade 4~5 for both the non-mordant dyed cotton and iron-mordant dyed cotton. Their rub fastness were grade 3 and grade 2~3 respectively, in the dry condition, and grade 2~3 and grade 3 respectively, in the wet condition. In the perspiration fastness of the non-mordant dyed cotton, the discoloration from acidity and alkalinity was grade 3~4 and grade 3, respectively, and contamination from acidity and alkalinity was relatively good at grade 4. Meanwhile, in the perspiration fastness of the non-mordant dyed cotton, discoloration from acidity and alkalinity was fair, both recording grade 3~4, and contamination from acidity and alkalinity was very good, both recording grade 4~5. In the ultraviolet protection effect of the non-mordant dyed cotton and iron-mordant dyed cotton, the ultraviolet protection factor was both 50+, both of which showed an excellent ultraviolet blocking effect. And the protection rate of UV-A appeared 98.4% and 99.1%, respectively, and the protection rate of UV-B showed 98.7% and 99.2, respectively. In addition, both exhibited an excellent deodorization rate over 99.9% or more, irrespective of the passage of time. Also, both showed an excellent antimicrobial activity over 99.9% or more against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.457-466
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to develop environmentally friendly black dye by comparing Ketapang and Gallnut, that have been traditionally used as a black dye. As a result of FT-IR and UV-Vis spectrophotometer analysis, Ketapang was characterized by condensed tannin, while Gallnut showed hydrolyzable tannin. Due to the dyeability characteristic analysis, the color fastness of the non-mordant dye was slightly lowered to grades 1-3. In the dry-cleaning fastness test, both non-mordant and iron mordant were excellent, in grade 4-5, and the daylight fastness was excellent grade 3-5 too. The $L^*$ values of Ketapang were 26.93 (pre-mordant) and 29.39 (post-mordant), which were higher than those of Gallnut, 41.90 (pre-mordant) and 43.02 (post-mordant), indicating that Ketapang was more easily colored as a black dye than Gallnut.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.201-209
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• 1991

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of mordanting condition in the Gardenic Jasminoides Ellis Dyeing. The results were as follows; 1. The color fastness was compared and analysed that colored sample as $AIK(SO_4)_2,\;CuSO_4{\cdot}5H_2O,\;Ca(OH)_2,\;NaOH,\;HOOC(CHOH)_2COOH,\;K_2\;Cr_2O_7$ group was better than non-colored sample and also a silk was better than a cotton in fastness. Mordant as NaOH, HOOC$(CHOH)_2COOH,\;K_2Cr_2O_2,\;AIK(SO_4)_2$ were better than anything else in fastness and the effective method of the mordant to a silk was pre & aft mordant(4) and to a cotton was aft-mordant(3). 2. The comparison between methanol and distilled water, which used in extracted dyenig solution, the latter was more than one grade in fastness. 3. The color-difference value-test indicated that colored sample groups more redish and bluish color than non-colored sample. 4. The comparison between methanol and distilled water, which used to extract dyeing solutions, the latter were more light, greenish and yellowish colors. 5. When compared with the methanol and distilled water, as used to extract dyeing solutions, showed that the methanol was more clear and light yellow and the distilled water was more orange color and more effective in color fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.299-307
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• 2016

In order to clarify the availability of heat treatment for catechu dyeing, effect of color developing by heating process on cotton fabrics dyed with catechu extract was investigated. Dyed fabrics were heated various time(min) at $150^{\circ}C$. The cases of non-mordanting and mordanting were compared, and examined the effect of sodium acetate as an agent to promote the color developing to fabrics. Experiments with after-mordanting method showed that various colors can be obtained using catechu. K/S values of dyed fabrics with Al, Cu, Fe mordant were higher than the case of no mordant. The fabric by Cu mordanting showed 3 times to the case of no mordant. Fabrics dyed with catechu by mordanting lowered $L^*$ value while there was little change in $a^*$, $b^*$ value as the heating process progressed. Therefore, K/S values were increased due to heating process. The effects of adding sodium acetate in dyeing bath on dyed fabrics were shown higher K/S values, and the $L^*$ values were lower than those without sodium acetate according to heating time increase. The result show sodium acetate had a promoting effect on the color developing to the fabrics by heating process, it was very effective.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at $50^{\circ}C$. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}2$, $3{\rightarrow}4$, $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ and $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1.2{\rightarrow}2.3$ and $1-2{\rightarrow}2$ respectively.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.167-173
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• 1998

Having silk dyed with some pigment extracted from the skin of an onion, examined the change of color by time and frequency of dyeing and a mordanted cloth, and the antibiosis of a dyed cloth and a mordanted cloth. The result of this were as follows ; 1. The pigment of an onion was easily extracted in the hot water of $40^{\circ}C$ and much more extracted as the temperature of water rises($70^{\circ}C$). 2. As a result of dyeing it by the change of time, 30minutes, 60minutes, 90minutes and the frequency of dyeing, once, twice, three times after filtering the extracted solution, the one dyed three times for 30minutes was the best. 3. The difference of color of a mordanted cloth was the highest in the mordant of $SnCl_2\;2H_2O$ on the basis of the value of L of the non-mordant dyed three times. 4. The mordant of copper sulfate was proved to have the highest antibiosis in the antibiosis of a dyed cloth and a mordanted cloth, and it was proved that the pigment of the skin of an onion had excellent antibiosis.