• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.144-158
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• 2010

The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-$\grave{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.31-46
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to examine the color characteristics of menswear in different cities, focusing on the Paris, Milan, New York, Tokyo, and London collections. To answer the research question, the sampled colors were classified according to their hues and tones for frequency analysis and cross-analysis. The results are as follows: 'Red', which appeared frequently in the S/S and F/W seasons, was a core color in menswear design, and regardless of the season, 'blackish tones' were most commonly used. The cross-analysis uncovered a significant difference in the trends of hues in the F/W season between the cities. The colors that were more frequently used among the cities were as follows: 'blue-green' in the Paris collection, 'blue' and 'purple' in the Milan collection, 'purple' and 'purple-blue' in the London collection, 'yellow' in the New York collection, and 'red' and 'green' in the Tokyo collection. This study illustrates the significance of the F/W season's use of colors in menswear design and discovered through analysis that hues, rather than tones, were used to express individuality. These results are expected to be used as basic data for the analysis of menswear design trends.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.880-891
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• 2006

This study is to be focused on the sportswear combining common wear with the design elements of activewear. The objectives of this study are four designers in compliance with the book of Ann Marie Fiore and Patricia Anne Kimle; Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui and the times to be studied are limited to the early 21st Century from 2001 to 2005. Main results are as follow. This research divides sportswear into four groups; 'Function oriented style', 'Sensible style', 'Retro American sports style', and 'Street sports style'. Comparison of four designers' sportswear shows that Calvin Klein is function oriented, Donna Karan is function oriented and sensitivity driven, whereas Ralph Lauren focuses on retro American sports style along with function oriented characteristics. Anna Sui places emphasis on youth oriented street sports style. In terms of color, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use White & Black and natural tone while Ralph Lauren uses pastel tone, and Anna Sui uses mostly vivid colors. In terms of material, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use mostly elastic and synthetic materials whereas Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui use natural materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.116-130
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• 2011

Ethnic fashion and makeup were studied. 264 fashion designs from pret-$\`{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: 1. The major types of ethnic fashion and makeup were Africa. American Indian. Japan, India. China and Inca. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were soft smoky, smoky, retro, nature, avant-garde, eastern. 2. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were used for the image for the designer's collections rather than ethnic features. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more used than others. 3. Soft smoky makeup types were more expressed in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. In F/W seasons soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than other types. 4. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than others in Milan and New York collections commonly. 5. To emphasize the ethnic image for ethnic fashion, ethnic makeup arts like China, Japan, India, Africa, American Indian, Inca makeup arts and soft smoky, smoky makeup arts were represented.

• Advances in environmental research
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.9-17
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• 2013

Urine is a widely used matrix in biomonitoring studies on the assessment of human exposure to environmental chemicals such as phthalate esters and bisphenol A (BPA). In addition to the need to apply valid analytical techniques, assurance of specimen integrity during collection and storage is an important prerequisite for the presentation of accurate and precise analytical data. One of the common issues encountered in the analysis of non-persistent contaminants is whether shipping and storage temperature and time since collection have an effect on sample integrity. In this study, we investigated the stability of phthalate metabolites and BPA in spiked and unspiked urine samples stored at room temperature ($20^{\circ}C$) or at $-80^{\circ}C$ for up to 8 weeks. Concentrations of phthalate metabolites declined, on average, by 3% to 15%, depending on the compounds, and BPA declined by ~30% after 4 weeks of storage of spiked urine samples at $20^{\circ}C$. In a test of 30 unspiked urine samples stored at $20^{\circ}C$ and at $-80^{\circ}C$ for 8 weeks, the concentrations of phthalate metabolites and BPA decreased by up to 15% to 44%, depending on the compound and on the samples. It was found that the small reduction in phthalate concentrations observed in urine, varied depending on the samples. In a few urine samples, concentrations of phthalate metabolites and BPA did not decline even after storage at $20^{\circ}C$ for 8 weeks. We found a significant relationship between concentrations of target analytes in urine stored at $20^{\circ}C$ and at $-80^{\circ}C$ for 8 weeks. We estimated the half-lives of phthalate metabolites and BPA in urine stored at $20^{\circ}C$. The estimated half-life of monoethyl phthalate (mEP) and mono (2-ethyl-5-carboxyphentyl) phthalate (mECPP) in urine stored at $20^{\circ}C$ was over two years, of mono (2-ethyl-5-oxohexyl) phthalate (mEOHP) and monobenzyl phthalate (mBzP) was approximately one year, and of other phthalate metabolites was approximately 6 months. The estimated half-life of BPA in urine stored at $20^{\circ}C$ was approximately 3 months, which is much longer than that reported for aquatic ecosystems.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.343-353
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• 2003

In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.

• International Journal of Contents
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.1-7
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• 2007

There has been increased interest in wireless sensors in the last few years. This paper provides insight into the properties that make these sensors so attractive, specifically considering their efficiency, data reliability, and the ability to verify the data generated. Some advantages a wireless network presents over traditional information sensing are discussed as well. The paper considers how the environmental field can benefit from using these networks. Some of the possible challenges this industry will face in adopting this new method of data sampling and collection are also considered. A project we conducted raised concern over measures needed for the integrity of the communication system to be maintained, thus ensuring the integrity of the data being collected. From results of an experimental project conducted in York University, the reliability and usefulness of a sensor network is discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.