• Title/Summary/Keyword: New Look

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A Study on the Succession and Reinterpretation of Christian Dior's 'New Look' (크리스티앙 디올 '뉴 룩(New Look)'의 계승과 재해석에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Jinhee;Lee, Misuk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.2
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    • pp.68-87
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    • 2017
  • The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

New Composite Guidance Law with Look Angle Rate Constraint (지향각속도 제한을 고려한 복합 유도법칙)

  • Kim, Tae-Hun;Park, Bong-Gyun
    • The Transactions of The Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers
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    • v.68 no.4
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    • pp.566-572
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    • 2019
  • This paper proposes a new composite guidance law that can intercept moving targets and satisfy look angle rate constraint. In order to obtain the composite guidance law, we first develop a new look angle rate control guidance law which can maintain the maximum look angle rate limitation. And then, we propose the composite guidance scheme on the basis of the look angle rate control guidance and the proportional navigation guidance. To investigate the capturablity and characteristics of the proposed guidance, we also derive closed-form solutions and perform various numerical simulations. The proposed composite guidance only requires the line-of-sight rate, closing velocity, and missile's speed, thereby easily implementing in practical homing missiles.

The Image of 'New Man' in Men's Fashion in the mid-1980s (1980년대 중반 남성 패션에 나타난 '뉴 맨(New Man)' 이미지)

  • Yum, Hae-Jung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.171-184
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    • 2011
  • This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.

Sports Look Expressed in 20th Century Fashion (20세기 패션에 나타난 스포츠푹에 관한 연구)

  • 하지수
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.2
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    • pp.15-28
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    • 2000
  • This paper focuses on the sports look expressed in 20th century fashion. It is Age of Sport just as rock'n roll became dominant cultural form of the 1960's and 1970's . In the 1990's the sportsware is fashion. Designers gazing into the future are inspired by the details and functionality of clothing for snow boarding , skiing , motorbike racing and fitness. No doubt fashion in 2000 will also be full of references to it. Since the late 1960's the sportswear that was originally a term for clothing worn for various sports activities in the 1890's has changed and is now considered as fashion for day as well as evening. This has occurred primarily in the U.S. due to the adoption of less formal lifestyles by Americans. while the sportwear is the term which stemmed from the need for functionality in sports, sports look is the style inspired by the formative elements, that is, the details, the shilhouette, and the colors of the sportswear. New technologies for sports, the powerful influence of youthful culture, and the celebritizations of the sports stars made the sports look much hipper and more popular. It can be categoried into three aesthetic values, I. e., the functional sports look,, purism and no useless ornament, the street sports look with fun, androgynous and unisex mode and the mix and match of different texture and colors, and the futuristic sports look with new high tech fabrics and avant-garde style.

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A Study on the Generation and Characteristic of New Fashion Found in Changes in Revolutionary Fashion - Focused on the New Look of Christian Dior - (혁명적 변화에 나타난 NEW FASHION의 발생 및 특징에 관한 연구 - CHRISTIAN DIOR의 THE NEW LOOK을 중심으로 -)

  • 곽태기
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.1
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    • pp.129-143
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    • 2001
  • Particular historic events such as revolution and wars have given rise to fashion. Luxurious costume representative of the aristocratic culture since the French Revolution was changed into popular look with the collapse of the royal regime. With the restoration of the royal regime by Napoleon, rapid changes associated with the reemergence of the costume of aristocratic brought an opportunity for the revolutionary fashion of bringing about new fashion in the fashion field. Especially, the New Look Presented by Christian Dior in 1947 shortly after the Second World War would be the typical style of revolutionary fashion. Accordingly, this study attempted to analyse the characteristics of new fashion regarding how new fashion occurred and developed in changes in revolutionary fashion after the Revolution and the War, in conjunction with the zeitgeist(time split) of rapid social changes. The ultimate purpose of this study was find out the significance of fashion as to how and why fashion changed in relation to the factors of changes in fashion in the history and create new future fashion by reinterpreting new aesthetic consciousness about the characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion.

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Sociocultural meanings of flapper look - Analyzed from The New York Times articles - (플래퍼 룩의 사회 문화적 의미 고찰 - The New York Times 기사를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Yhe Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.19-29
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the sociocultural meanings of flapper look in American society during the 1920s. Using the ProQuest database, I searched articles from The New York Times published between 1920 and 1929 for opinions and discussions on the flapper look. Keywords included "clothing," "dress," "fashion," and "flapper," and advertisements and articles on menswear, leisurewear, and bathing suits were excluded. In the resulting articles, I extracted the following sociocultural meanings: autonomy, activeness, practicality, attractiveness, and extravagance. Meanings were analyzed from the opinions and discussions focusing on skirt length, dresses that directly and indirectly exposed the body, heavy make-up, non-constricting underwear, the H-line dress, bobbed hair, hygiene, comfort, and consumption. In sum, the 1920s flapper look represented progressive characteristics such as autonomous and active womanhood and practicality, which matched the technological development of the time. However, the flapper look was commercialized and exploited to make women look attractive and extravagant. Even though American women had access to higher education, more economic power, and suffrage in the 1920s, they were limited in their ability to overcome social conventions and the power of consumerism. Understanding the double-sidedness of flapper look within the social context of the time would enhance the comprehension of the relationship between women's lifestyles and changing fashion.

Optics in the 21st Century

  • O′Shea, D.C.
    • Proceedings of the Optical Society of Korea Conference
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    • 2000.02a
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    • pp.65-65
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    • 2000
  • Although it is difficult to predict the future engineers, including optical engineers, must do it on a regular basis. After all, what is the generation of a new optical design, but an attempt to predict what will be needed next year\ulcorner But optical engineers do not consult oracles or look into crystal balls, instead they look at past history, new research, and the trends in technology. This talk will use this approach to look at where optics will take us in this new century. (omitted)

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A Study on the Maximalism Depicted in the Contemporary Costumes (현대 복식에 표현된 맥시멀리즘 연구)

  • 이효진
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.275-292
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study is to recognize the aesthetic characteristics of the Maximalism depicted in contemporary costumes of new millennium. This is done by analyzing and examining the social and cultural background of fashion in the few years of 21st century. The fashion trend of the beginning of 21st century was coexisted conflicting factors with ultramodern factor and past recurrent factor. For that reason, new millennium is to be existence background of Maximalism style in contemporary costumes. The social and cultural background of Maximalism was regarded as characteristics of the Glocalism, fusion style, bobos. Glocalism means a compound word of Globalism and Localism, and used various fields of policy, economics, society etc. Consequently, the aesthetic formativeness of Maximalism of the contemporary costumes was investigated as the 'Romantic Hippie Look' and 'Romantic Sports Look' 1) Romantic Hippie Look New millennium fashion trend is affected by hippie style of 1970's. That is major reason that the antiwar consciousness of 9.11 terror, USA-Afganistan war and the economic depression is similar to 1970's situation. Accordingly, fashion trend is developed into bright, light, romantic style and fashion designers chose materials with flowers, butterflies, dragonflies pattern. Because the clothing of these material reflects well modern people's feeling to escape misgivings, unrest of political terror, war etc. The characteristics of hippie style expressed freedom as the greatest merit was raised new trend, so called 'Romantic Hippie Look' on new millennium. That is, the romantic hippie look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multiculturalism and nationalism. 2) Romantic Sports Look : The beginning of new millennium, many fashion designers intend to graft the details of sports wear on order made or ready made clothing and try to show luxury and cheerful fashion design with combination of sporty and romantic factors. Accordingly, theses fashion trends expressed 'Romantic Sports Look' with a harmony or disharmony of unusual factors. The fashion trend of new millennium centering around special cities like New York, Paris, Milan moved to various regional culture. Accordingly, the features of fashion depicted not unique theme but multiplicity of the clothing of dissimilar style or material by the mixture of 2 or 3 factors like the fusion of femininity and masculinity and the combination of past and present of details. That is, the romantic sports look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multi-functional and crossover.

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A Study of the Outdoor Look Features in Modern Fashion Collections -Focusing on women's ready-to-wear collection 2014 to 2015- (현대 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 아웃도어 룩의 특성 연구 - 2014년에서 2015년 여성복 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Mikyoung;Kan, Hosup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.32-45
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    • 2016
  • Outdoor wear, which is typically worn for outdoor activities, has become a style that is worn on a daily basis, much like ordinary clothes, through recent megatrends. There are new approaches to outdoor wear with high-fashion brands and designers recently taking part in the trend. This indicates that outdoor wear has already reached high-fashion, no longer making it just a megatrend or daily fashion. Therefore this study aims to find new features of outdoor looks and designs, through the latest women's ready-to-wear collections from 2014 to 2015. The study will focus on mega collections, which have shown many new approaches, and searches to change and development the present day outdoor look design, by using the word 'outdoor look' which is explained as a 'style' in a broad sense, and using it a general term of 'clothes'. High fashion brands have pursued changing their styles by mixing their designs with outdoor wear's variety, functionality and details; attempting new approaches and challenges. Due to these updated changes, the outdoor look is thriving and becoming part of high fashion. Looking forward to future new approaches and the development of the outdoor look will help catapult this type of 'style' into a new category of modern fashion.

Alessandro Michele's Gucci Collection: A Study of the Characteristics of Granny Look in the New-tro Trends (뉴트로 트렌드에 나타난 그래니 룩에 관한 특성 연구 -알레산드로 미켈레의 구찌 컬렉션을 중심으로-)

  • Yun, Seongah;Kan, Hosup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.32-43
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.