• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.182-189
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cow leather was investigated with Tumeric powder. The effects of dyeing conditions, mordanting conditions, color change, and color fastnesses were studied. The results were as follows. The dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and bath ratio increased. In the effect of dyeing time, the highest dye uptakes showed at 20 minutes and decreased after that point. Pre mordanting was more effective than the post mordanting, and the dye uptakes improved all mordanted fabrics. The highest K/S values showed in pre-Al sample, and the lowest K/S values showed in post-Cu one. The values of Hunter on the samples were more changeable $L^*$ and $b^*$ than $a^*$, and all samples showed Yellow color in Munsell value. But the mordanting methods and mordanting agents were not significant in the color changes. The light fastness of dyed samples showed 1 grade, the dry cleaning and abrasion fastnesses did not improved except post-Fe wet sample.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.462-468
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at $60^{\circ}C$ and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f, $90^{\circ}C$, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.438-445
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• 2009

This study was conducted to examine the chemical characteristics, antibacterial activity and dyeability of several juices made from Persimmon cv. 'Gyeongsanbanshi'. Young fruits of persimmon were harvested at 1st August, 2006. Fruit juice was extracted soon after harvesting, some of them were stored at $4{\sim}6^{\circ}C$ for 6 months or fermented at room temperature for 6 months. $L^*$ values of vinegar was 43.5 higher than those of fresh juice and fermented liquor. Inorganic matter contents in fresh juice, fermented liquor and vinegar were higher in the order of K ($1696{\sim}2880\;mg$/100 g), Ca ($166.7{\sim}417.9\;mg$/100 g), Mg ($203.9{\sim}214.4\;mg$/100 g), P ($37.9{\sim}109.8\;mg$/100 g), Na ($13.2{\sim}23.3\;mg$/100 g) and Fe ($8.4{\sim}14.2\;mg$/100 g). Cotton fabrics dyed with the fermented liquor and vinegar had the largest inhibitory zone against the gram-positive microorganisms with range of $16.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$. Cotton fabrics dyed with the fresh juice showed $9.0{\sim}9.5\;mm$ inhibitory zone against the gram-negative microorganisms, $15.0{\sim}21.0\;mm$ with the juice stored at $4{\sim}6^{\circ}C$ for 6 months, $22.0{\sim}23.0\;mm$ with the fermented liquor and $9.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$ with vinegar. The hue of cotton fabrics dyed with the fermented liquor had a YR levels, and antibacterial activity of them were 78.5%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.752-758
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• 2018

Due to environmental pollution and human hazards of some synthetic dyes, the global fashion companies are increasingly interested in eco-friendly products, especially natural dye. For the globalization of natural dyeing industry based on this concern, however, there are some deficiencies of standardization, specification, and conformity assessment on natural dyestuffs as well as natural dyeing process. These obstacles should be not only studied but also defined for a commercial transaction. Accordingly, a study for conformity assessment on commercialized natural dyestuffs (red) was conducted by HPLC analysis in this study. As the results of HPLC analysis, alizarin and purpurin, representative index ingredients, were detected in most of the samples, but the index ingredient content in each sample was different. In addition, some samples showed the variety of peaks including the index ingredients and others. It was inferred that the representative index ingredients could be used on the traceability of natural sourced dyestuffs. These results are related to the index ingredient consistency, standardization, and reproducibility of natural dyed products including such as yarns, fabrics, garments, and so on. Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that in order to determine the conformity assessment system for the satisfaction of all stakeholders, the offering of information on the origin, manufacturing process, and index ingredient content of natural dyes should be prioritized.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.525-531
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• 2018

This paper proposes a bi-component dye, including the unripe fruit of Diospyros kaki THUNB and Ecklonia cava, to substitute for traditional persimmon dyeing because fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffer and natural persimmon is insufficient for dyeing. This study examined the color difference and fabric stiffness depending on the ratio of Ecklonia cava for in a one-bath dye solution with Diospyros kaki THUNB and showed that 6% of Ecklonia cava in the bi-component dye was the optimum for decreasing the fabric stiffness. Based on these results, a bi-component dye constituting of 94% Diospyros kaki THUNB and 6% Ecklonia cava was prepared. The particle size was found to be smaller than both single dyes and it maintained a similar amount of Catechin to Diospyros kaki THUNB dye. Finally, cotton fabric dyed with a bi-component dye was much improved in terms of the fabric hand and the surface color was similar to that of the traditional persimmon-dyed fabric. These results could help to develop the natural persimmon dyeing industry.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.76-81
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• 2012

In this study the natural colorant was extracted from black bean seed coat in aqueous solution and used to dye silk and cotton fabrics. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing condition (temperature, pH, time and liquor ratio). The dyeing behavior and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. The dyeing fastness evaluated standard light and wash fastness tests. The obtained results were as follows ; The most K/S value of silk and cotton fabrics were obtained when the pH was 4.0 and 4.8, respectively and it increased slightly with dyeing time passes when the dyeing temperatures were at $40^{\circ}C$ and $60^{\circ}C$ but, it increased at $80^{\circ}C$. The color of silk fabrics changed from yellowish red to yellow at only Fe mordanting among various mordanting. Sn and Ti mordanting of silk fabric and only Ni mordanting of cotton fabric increased the $L^*$ values, but the others decreased. The light fastness of silk fabrics showed 4-6 grade without mordant, 4-5 grade with Al, 3-4 grade with Cu and Sn, and 2-3 grade with Fe as mordant, and that of cotton fabrics showed 1-2 grade without mordant, 2-3 grade with Fe, 2 grade with Cu, 1-2 grade with Al and Sn as mordants. All mordanting coluld not improve the light fastness of fabrics. Washing fastness(fade) of silk fabrics showed 2 grade without mordants and 2-3 grade with mordants and those of cotton fabrics showed 4 grade with Cu, 3 grade without mordant and with Al, Sn and Fe. All of the washing fastness(stain) of both fabrics showed 4-5 grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.144-154
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• 2011

Polygoum tinctoria dye is the one using the method of reducing dyeing, and so is made by the mechanism different from natural dye in general, and the reproductive dye is more difficult because it varies in accordance with manufacturing method and days being manufactured in case of natural indigo dye that has been used traditionally. In addition, overall analysis is short of color changes in accordance with natural dyeing condition and barely none of the research for cellulose system such as cotton in particular. Accordingly, this study tries to research on the natural dyeing method optimal for color development that is desirable in designing and development of natural dyeing as comparing and contemplating the change of dyeing quality and color in accordance with reduction temperature and time, reductant quantity, dyeing temperature and time, NaOH quantity, and dyeing repetition times in order to expand dyeing methods and use variously polygoum tinctoria by improving traditional dyeing methods as well as to establish exact dyeing method of cotton which is a fabric of cellulose system in order to make such polygoum tinctoria quantificated and reproductive. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Reducing temperature is $50^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of the reducing agent is $3g/{\ell}$. Reducing time is 30minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is $1g/{\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.16-24
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• 1991

The textile fabric have the functions of sanitation, decoration, wearing style and washing in the practical use. Among various texitle fiber, silk has less utilities than synthetic fiber in practical use although silk has good benefits of the high quality. Thus no textile fiber, neither natural nor synthetic, has all the functions. In this sence, many blend yarns have been improved various functions of fabric. However, this has been disturbed with the problem of dyeing, especially in the case of blend fabric of silk. In this study, we dyed silk/PET blend fabric in one step useing one bath dyeing method by acid dyes/disperse dyes. The results of the experiments can be summarized as follows; 1) Yellow index of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ increased about 7.8 (color difference 4.5 NBS) and whiteness decrease about 5%. 2) Both elongation and tensile strength of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ of pH 5-6 decreased about 10% and tensile strength of silk spun yarn treated at $60^{\circ}C$ of pH 10 have little changed. 3) While silk/PET blend frbric dyeing, silk soiling of disperse dyes causes from difference of dyeing rate and degree of silk soiling with dyes. 4) Fastness and soiling of silk/PET blend fabric dyed by one bath dyeing method of acid dyes/disperse dyes was same as two bath dyeing method.