• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2010.03a
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• pp.144-145
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• 2010

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.143-149
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• 2006

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Acorn Shell was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Acorn Shell were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Acorn Shell solution was at 287.5nm and 294nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Acorn Shell was during 1 hour in $60^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were $80{\sim}100^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Acorn Shell appeared yellow-brown. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by mordant treatment. K/S value of post-mordanting was higher than pre-mordanting. Mordanting treatment attected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Acorn Shell light fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades by post-mordanting. Abrasion fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades. Perspiration fastness of appered more than $3{\sim}5grades$ by mordant treatment but Cu mordant treatment was $2-5{\sim}4grades$. Dry-cleaning Fastness appered more than 4 grades except Cu mordant treatment. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.154-160
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• 2005

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Puerariae Radix was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Puerariae Radix were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Puerariae Radix solution was at 290nm and 301nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Puerariae Radix was during 1 hour in loot. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 80$\~$ 100$^{circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Puerariae Radix appeared yellow-brown. US value of dyeing fabrics was increased by Fe, and Cu mordant treatment. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Puerariae Radix light fastness of appeared more than 2-5 grades by mordant treatment. Perspiration fastness of appered more than 4 grades by Al, Sn, Cr mordant treatment. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appered more than 4-5 grades. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.142-149
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing properties of mugwort extract by nano-cellulose(n-cell). When dyeing cotton, rayon(artificial silk, called Ingyeon) and silk with mugwort extract, the difference with and without 2 wt% n-cell which it diluted to 0.6% treatment was compared. It was found that the addition of n-cell changed the values of L^∗, -a^∗(+red ~ -green), and b^∗(+yellow ~ -blue) of all scoured cotton, rayon and silk fabrics, compared to dyeing only mugwort extract. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the ΔE and the K/S value slightly increased in all of the dyed cotton, rayon, and silk fabrics treated with n-cell at the same time as dyeing compared to the untreated ones. Therefore, by treating the fabric with n-cell, a natural cellulose component, at the same time as dyeing, it is expected to maintain stable fastness, which is a disadvantage of dyeing using natural dyes, and contribute to the utilization and commercialization of other natural dyes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.380-390
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• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.476-480
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• 2006

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was analyzed. It was dyed in silk fabric according to various dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The maximum absorbance of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was at 521 nm. The dyeaffinities were increased gradually as were increased dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hues of mordanted silk fabrics were RP, P, PB, BG where as non mordanted silk fabric was R. Lightfastness was the best at pre-Sn mordanted and the worst at Post-Al mordanted. Washing and perspiration fastnesses were improved on pre and post-Sn mordanted.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.78-85
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• 1998

Colorants were prepared by extraction of natural indigo which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). 100 g of fresh leaves soaking in 1 ιwater was kept at 3$0^{\circ}C$, 30 hours. A solution of 3g/l calcium hydroxide was added into it to precipitate dye substance and it was freezing-dried into powder form. The fermentation and dyeing conditions were investigated. The results obtained are summarized as follows; K/S value of dyed silk fabrics of fermentation conditions was higher at 95$^{\circ}C$ for 20 min. than at 4$0^{\circ}C$ for 20 hours. Furthermore, K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value increased as extending of dyeing time when dyed till 2 hours at 3$0^{\circ}C$. K/S value decreased in order of 3$0^{\circ}C$, 4$0^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$, at the various dyeing temperatures and dyeing concentrations, and colour fastness ranged from 4 to 5 grade in terms of washing, perspiration and light fastness.