• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.33-48
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• 2022

This study was performed to compare the color emotion and preference of Koreans and Chinese for a two-color combination by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon and indigo and to establish prediction models of color preference. Nine specimens prepared by combining two different colored fabrics (persimmon and indigo) were evaluated for color emotion and preference by Korean and Chinese groups of female college students. Koreans described most specimens as natural and traditional, whereas the Chinese described them as more pleasant and elegant as well as warmer and lighter than Koreans did. The contrast tone was the most preferred combination by both groups, whereas it was perceived as more modern and less warm by Koreans. Relationships between physical color variables and color emotions were quantified; these relationships were applied to establish a prediction model of color preference with tone combination types for each group. These results could help in making the design of fashion textiles more preference- and emotion-oriented for Korean and Chinese consumers.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.189-195
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• 2023

In this study, as one of the eco-friendly dyeing methods, indigo, Phellodendron amurense and Caeasapinia sappan were complexed dyed on cotton fabric. For complexed dyeing, the cotton that was pre-dyed 5 times with indigo was dyed 1 ~ 2 times repeatedly with Phellodendron amurense and Caeasapinia sappan. Then the color, tensile strength, density, and color fastness of complexed dyed sample were analyzed and the following analysis results could be obtained. As a result of color difference measurement, the L* value was 22.7 in the sample in which the cotton was dyed 5 times and then the Phellodendron amurense was dyed 1 time, and the K/S value was 15 or higher in all samples. As a result of measuring the strength, cotton fabrics tended to have a slight decrease in tensile strength when complexed dyeing. As a result of measuring the density, the density decreased by 15 ~ 20% in all samples at the warp and increased by 20 ~ 30% in the weft due to the complexed dyeing of cotton fabric. Moreover, the fastness to washing and drycleaning showed good results of 2 ~ 3 or higher, and the light fastness was 4 or higher.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제20권
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

문화재의 생물방제를 목적으로 개발되어 시판되고 있는 3종의 식물 추출 천연 살충 살균제에 대한 문화재의 재질에 미치는 영향을 평가하였다. 평가 대상 재질은 1) 견직물 : 염색하지 않은 견직물, 황벽, 오배자, 오배자(명반 후매염), 오배자(녹반 후매염), 치자, 울금, 도토리, 도토리(녹반 후매염), 자초, 천근, 천근(명반 후매염), 홍화(홍염색), 소목, 소목(명반 선매염, 후매염) 염색 및 쪽, 쪽과 황벽 복염, 쪽과 소목 복염 견직물 2) 면직물 : 염색하지 않은 면직물, 황벽, 오배자, 오배자(명반 후매염), 치자, 도토리, 도토리(녹반 후매염), 자초, 천근, 천근(명반 후매염), 홍화(홍염색), 소목, 소목(명반선매염, 후매염) 염색 및 쪽, 쪽과 소목 복염 면직물, 3) 염색하지 않은 저마직물 4) 한지 : 염색하지 않은 한지, 소목, 쪽, 치자, 홍화(홍염색), 황벽 염색 한지 5) 안료분말 :석청 석록, 연단, 석간주, 주사, 주, 패각호분, 밀타승,대자, 석황, 쪽, 백토, 연백 남전 5)채색편 : 석청, 석록, 연단, 석간주, 주사, 주, 패각호분, 밀타승, 대자, 석황, 쪽, 백토, 연백, 남전이다. 시험은 시료를 습도 $55{\pm}1%$. 온도 $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$의 환경에서 약제의 권장 농도의 10배에 9개월간 노출 시킨 후 기준 시료와의 색차와 인장강도를 비교 평가하였다. 약제 노출 후 염색을 하지 않은 견직물 면직물 저마직물 한지는 약제에 의한 색상 변화는 거의 일어나지 않았으나, 염색 견직물 면직물 한지는 도토리나 천근 염색 직물 등이나 치자 염색 한지를 제외하고는 대부분 일반인도 인식이 가능한 뚜렷한 색상차가 발생하였다. 특히 울금 염색 견직물은 가장 색상차가 뚜렷하였다. 그리고 안료분말이나 채색편은 납, 구리, 비소, 수은 함유 안료 및 식물성 안료 등에서 뚜렷한 색상차가 발생하였다. 인장강도는 염색하지 않은 견직물은 약제에 거의 변화가 없으며 면직물은 약간 감소하는 경향을 보이나, 염색을 한 견직물이나 면직물은 강도의 증가나 감소가 뚜렷하였다. 특히 천근 염색 견직물은 10% 이상의 강도 감소가, 쪽 염색 견직물은 10% 이상의 강도 증가가 일어났으며, 천근과 소목(명반 후매염) 염색 면직물은 10% 이상의 강도 감소 현상이 일어났다.

• 한국잠사학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국잠사학회 2006년도 제49회 춘계 학술연구 발표회
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• pp.17-17
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• 2006

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2008년도 제39차 학술발표회
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• pp.33-34
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• 2008

전통 쪽 염료인 니람 제조원리를 바탕으로 산업적인 쪽 염료 제조공정에 대한 제안과 함께 이와 관련한 몇몇 공정변수를 포함한다.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2009년도 학술발표대회
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• pp.126-127
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• 2009

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2010년도 제3회 국제학회
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• pp.123-124
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• 2010

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2007년도 추계학술발표회
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• pp.95-96
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• 2007

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.755-768
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• 2014

This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.431-440
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.