• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.90-99
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• 2011

The aim of this study is to develope eco-printing method using natural pigments and chitosan as a natural binder. Three chitosans with different molecular weights were employed to find appropriate conditions including chitosan concentration and pigment/binder ratio. Dye uptake, color and fastnesses of the printed fabrics were evaluated to find optimum conditions within the range of experiments carried out in this study. The effectiveness of chitosan as a printing binder was examined in comparison with color, dye uptake, and fastnesses of conventional synthetic binder and guar gum. It was found that chitosans with low or medium molecular weight were appropriate. Using low molecular weight chitosan, optimum concentrations were 1.7% for charcoal, madder and chlorophyll, whereas 2.2% for ocher, yellow soil, indigo and cochineal. Regardless of molecular weight and concentration of chitosan, the color fastnesess of fabrics printed with mineral pigments were superior to those of the fabrics printed with plant and animal pigments. As pigment/chitosan ratio became higher, rubbing fastness was decreased by 1-3 grade. The colorfastness of printed fabric with chitosan binder was similar to that with synthetic binder, which was higher than that with guar gum.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.844-851
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• 2021

Due to the increase in consumers' interest about well-being, interest in eco-friendly products has been increasing due to the harmful effects of various harmful substances contained in textile products and environmental issues. As a result, natural dyes of less potential risk than synthetic dyes and digital textile printing(DTP) textile products with less environmental pollution are drawing attention. However, due to the lack of evaluation criteria for DTP textile products with natural ink and the nature of many colors are stacked layer by layer for dying, the need for simultaneous analysis is emerging. To evaluate whether the natural dye is derived from natural ingredients, the biocarbon content is analyzed. However, in the case of ink made using natural dyes and DTP textile products using natural ink, it is difficult to analyze the biocarbon content due to the limitation of the presence of a small amount of dye contained therein. In this study, we were shown the possibility of natural derived verification by cross-checking the analytes of natural dyes (Persicaria tinctoria, an indigo dye; Dactylopius coccus, a light red; and Curcum longa L., i.e., turmeric) and natural ink with HPLC-MS/MS. The coefficient of determination was 0.999 or higher, the limit of quantification was 0.647-3.664 ㎍/L and a %RSD of each indicator material was less than 10. Then, the extraction amount of natural dyes for five patterned fabrics was analyzed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.140-151
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• 2017

This study researched the status and prospect of the natural dye program in the Gyeongsang region, with a focus on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources available for natural dyes. Metropolitan cities do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes as well as have difficulty securing the land; therefore, entire sites are limited and smaller as they are closer to the city. The one-time program of all centers has been researched to help promote and maintain centers rather than generate profit. It is shown that June-August (summer) is preferred over December-February (winter). Natural dye programs for hobby and education are operated as needed because the number of participants are low. This program uses natural indigo and Persimmon Juice for the dyeing raw materials. Programs are often outsourced by other institutes with a private certification registration system the starting of a business after obtaining certification are often found in institutes operating programs directly. Future plans do not include investments in facilities (like the enlargement of experience centers) the prospect of programs and business value is bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.3-14
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• 2016

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

In this study, two hats and a laptop bag were developed and produced as cultural products by using Hanji-fabrics dyed with various natural dyeing materials. First of all, for the cultural product development, I selected Hanji-fabric which made with traditional Korean paper with excellent durability and functionality. Secondly, it was dyed blue with indigo, brown with green persimmon juice, red by safflower, yellow by amur cork and purple by gromwell root. Third, two hats and a laptop bag were designed. Fourth, according to the designs, patterns of two hats and a laptop bag were made. And then two hats and a laptop bag were finished by cutting and sewing Hanji-fabrics dyed in various colors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.15-28
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• 2017

Today, modern people are exposed to various environmental pollutants such as harmful substances and stress, which can compromise health. Therefore, a healing culture that seeks to enjoy human life based on the healing of body and mind is attracting great attention. The purpose of this study is to develop environmentally friendly natural dyeing considering a healing concept with four elements: color, dye, material, and pattern. The research methods and scope are based on a theoretical review of healing and research on the literature of bedding related to natural dyes, national and international books, the Internet, etc., and naturally dyed bedding. This paper presents actual production research. The results of this study are as follows. First, the elements of color, dyeing, material and pattern were developed through the process of a bedding design development model that applies a healing concept and can be commercialized as a healing bedding product. Second, a healing color proposal was expressed in an intermediate color system of pink, ocher, lavender, and indigo colors for emotional stability, warmth, calmness, comfort and softness. Third, eco-friendly bedding using natural dyes with medicinal efficacy can obtain the healing effect of the natural treatment method, which can aid healthy sleep. Fourth, the pattern used in the bedclothes was a motif of Sarasa embroidery, flower embroidery, ribbon embroidery, and wave quilting motifs to provide psychological stability as a healing concept in the sleeping environment. The natural healing bedding with the healing concept proposed in this study has natural treatment that is beneficial to human health and the development of bedding with natural dyes will lead to an increase of demand for the sleeping environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.144-154
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• 2011

Polygoum tinctoria dye is the one using the method of reducing dyeing, and so is made by the mechanism different from natural dye in general, and the reproductive dye is more difficult because it varies in accordance with manufacturing method and days being manufactured in case of natural indigo dye that has been used traditionally. In addition, overall analysis is short of color changes in accordance with natural dyeing condition and barely none of the research for cellulose system such as cotton in particular. Accordingly, this study tries to research on the natural dyeing method optimal for color development that is desirable in designing and development of natural dyeing as comparing and contemplating the change of dyeing quality and color in accordance with reduction temperature and time, reductant quantity, dyeing temperature and time, NaOH quantity, and dyeing repetition times in order to expand dyeing methods and use variously polygoum tinctoria by improving traditional dyeing methods as well as to establish exact dyeing method of cotton which is a fabric of cellulose system in order to make such polygoum tinctoria quantificated and reproductive. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Reducing temperature is $50^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of the reducing agent is $3g/{\ell}$. Reducing time is 30minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is $1g/{\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.296-301
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• 2017

This study researched the status and prospect of a natural dye program in Gyeongsang region that focused on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources were available for natural dyes. The entire site for metropolitan cities that have difficulty in securing the land are limited (as well as smaller) because they are closer to the city; in addition, they do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes. It is understood that the one-time program of all centers researched help to promote and maintain the centers rather than generating profit; in addition, it is shown that Jun - Aug (summer) is preferred over Dec - Feb (winter). This program uses natural indigo; consequently, natural dye program for hobby and education is operated when it is required because the number of participants are low in most cases, Persimmon Juice is used for the dyeing raw materials. Programs in operation are often outsourced with other institutes registered under private certification system; therefore, many cases of starting business are found in the institutes operating programs directly after obtaining the certification. Their plans do not allow for investment in facility such as enlargement of experience center and prospect of program; in addition, business value is generally bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.