• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1477-1485
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• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.12
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• pp.1310-1317
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• 2012

This study examines the possibilities to improve natural dyestuff's (Pinux$^{TM}$) dyeability and colorfastness for C/R (Cotton/Rayon (40/60)) and W/T (Wool/Tencel (10/90)) knitted fabrics in cationizing and smectiting for pre-treatment, simultaneous-treatment and post-treatment process sequences; as well as various other treatment methods. The sample dyeability showed the strongest K/S value in the order of smectite (S) < cationization + smectite (C+S) < cationization (C); however, the K/S value showed a low level in the simultaneoustreatment method of smectite. Colorfastness to washing improved in the order of C < C+S < S, and after the smectite post-treatment process, C/R improved from Grade 1 to Grade 4 and W/T improved from Grade 1-2 to Grade 4. Colorfastness to perspiration generally improved in the same order as the colorfastness to washing and after the smectite post-treatment process C/R, W/T sample's acidic and alkaline colorfastness to perspiration improved greatly. As for the colorfastness to rubbing, the addition of smectite in the simultaneous-treatment and post-treatment processes resulted in improved wet-colorfastness; however, smectite showed less effect on the colorfastness to light compared to other colorfastness ratings.