• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.16 no.12
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• pp.593-602
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the coloring properties of non-mordant dyes by examining local literature on silk fabric dyeing using red-colored natural dyes. Natural dyes can be prepared from the following 8 materials: purple-fleshed sweet potato, Impatiens balsamina, mulberry, fruits of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb, guava leaves, dansam, hibiscus flowers, and pruned branches of Prunus persica. To examine the surface color calculated $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, ${\Delta}E^*$, and K/S value and H V/C. The variables considered in the dyeing experiment were dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and number of dyeing iterations, which were varied to evaluate the dyeing properties and color characteristics. As a result, the abovementioned variables, dye affinity, and red color expression were directly proportional to one another. In this study, it was found that red coloring can be obtained with natural dyes; moreover, excellent dyeing was achieved without the need for repeated dyeing or mordanting processes, which cause environmental pollution.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.380-390
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• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.371-381
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• 2010

The pine needles can be used for four seasons in normal living and it can be taken friendly everywhere as it is distributed over 50% in Korea. The pine needles consist of vitamins, protein, minerals, essential oil and enzyme related to antimicrobial activity. It has effect like high blood pressure, neuralgia and hanged over by terpene, glucokinin, rutin, apigenic acid and tannin. Also the extract of them can be used for dyeing of fabrics. However, the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the volatile components of the pine needles extract and functionality. The pine needles extract was dyed into various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool and soybean) and mordanted with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe and Sn. The extracted aroma compounds were compared by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The major volatile compounds of pine needles verified by using SPME were alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, beta-phellandrene, caryophyllene, ethanon, benzen. A total of 15 compounds were identified by using the SPME fibers. In the UV-visible spectra, the maximum absorption of wavelength of the pine needles ethanol extract appeared at 460, 630nm for chlorophyll component and at 237, 281nm for tannin component with the pine needles distilled water extract. Most of sample showed high antibacterial effect in none mordant but wool fabric showed high antibacterial effect in mordants. The result of UV block test showed a superior ability of blocking ultraviolet ray infiltration in all sample.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.113-118
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• 2013

This study was carried out to evaluate the dyeing possibility of purple corn stem and leaf. The UV absorbance of the purple corn stem extract and leaf extract at different pH does not change. It is considered to use to efficiently measure the purple corn pigment content when using UV absorbance at 520~560 nm. By adjusting higher pH values in the extraction dyed fabrics, silk and cotton fabric used by the purple corn leaf extraction decreased lightness and redness. Extent for dyeing the fabric depending on the concentration, lightness and redness showed a tendency to increase color values when silk and cotton concentration increases. Also when the longer the dyeing time, silk and cotton increased lightness but redness decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.299-308
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• 2015

Aim of this study is to identify dyestuff of the Dallryeong(official's robe in Joseon Dynasty, 16th century) excavated from Yuryang-dong, Cheonan, in 1996. For this purpose, extracted dyestuffs from Dallryeong fabric and from natural dyestuffs for red color(safflower, Sapanwood, Madder) which are presumed to have been used in the Dallryeong, are analyzed and compared by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC). As a result, HPLC chromatogram of extracts of the Dallryeong's dyestuff and safflower are showed a peak at 17.5 minutes. The UV/Vis spectra of the samples are showed the maximum absorption wavelength at 519nm. This result is identical with the analysis of the previous studies on red dyestuff of safflower. In addition, the analysis of Mass Spectrometry(MS) showed the identical result of the peak with m/z 910. Following these results, excavated pink Dallryeong were considered to have been dyed with safflower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1408-1417
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• 2007

In Korea, to deal with the housing needs of the elderly, the government operates free nursing homes and residential homes. And to deal with the needs for daily necessities, imported products or products for the disabled have been supplied for the elderly. The government has recognized the importance of silver industry in this rapidly aging society and has established strategies to vitalize industries related to seniors to deal with the seniors' need for food, clothing, and shelter. This study examined the necessity of nursing home gowns, and the development of nursing home gowns that are environmentally friendly, beautiful and functional for the new silver generation. For this study, literature review and Internet search were conducted regarding the status of silver fashion, necessity of nursing home gowns, emergence of new silver generation and change in lifestyle, and value and utilization of natural dye and traditional patterns. To produce nursing home gowns, fabric was dyed using fermented indigo dying, and 3 styles of nursing home gowns for each gender were designed in consideration of seasons. Lastly, these gowns were evaluated by fashion experts, medical personnel, hospital gown and silver wear experts, and natural dye experts. The results showed that the traditional Korean designs developed in this study were excellent and the fermented indigo dye was appropriate for the nursing home gowns. The development of nursing home gowns in this study will be utilized as basic material for the development of silver wear and nursing home gowns to improve the quality of life for the seniors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.