• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.120-130
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• 2011

This study is a fundamental research on the natural Polygoum tinctoria dyeing to quantify scientifically and satisfy the reproducibility of the procedure. By dyeing the silk fabrics, the establishment of accurate dyeing method was sought. At the same time, we tried to modify the traditional dyeing methods, broaden the methods, and apply the dyeing variously. The dyeability and color changes were compared and reviewed according to the changes in the reducing temperature, reducing time, concentration of the reducing agent, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, concentration of NaOH, and the number of repetition of dyeing. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Added concentration of the reducing agent is 3g/${\ell}$. Reducing temperature is $60^{\circ}C$. Reducing time is 40minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is 1g/${\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.377-384
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at $50^{\circ}C$. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}2$, $3{\rightarrow}4$, $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ and $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1.2{\rightarrow}2.3$ and $1-2{\rightarrow}2$ respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

Regarding experimental study on the dyeing properties of natural dye, I have dyed silk fabric with Styphnolobium japonicum, sappan wood, and indigo. The results of the experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, K/S and CIE Lab chromaticity co-ordinated. The results are as follows: In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, dyeing with sappan wood, which is red related color, after dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum, which is yellow related color, is more efficient. When dyeing was maden by complex of Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, Dyeing method by the order of "Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$mordanting" made the best result of complex dyeing. In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and Indigo, dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum after the indigo made the best result. When dyeing with indigo first, and then Styphnolobium japonicum, yellow color was not well dyed, and low level of saturation caused lusterless color. Ordering of Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$indigo made the best result of complex dyeing in case of complex dying with Styphnolobium japonicum and indigo. Dyeing order, sappan wood first and then indigo last method shown 560~640 nm wavelength of maximum absorption which most color was blue related. In contrast, Indigo first and then sappan wood method shown 460~560nm wavelength of maximum absorption which color was red related. Complex dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was showing lusterless color. In case of dyeing with red and blue, dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was not appropriate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.971-977
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.19-27
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Sophora japonica L. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Sophora japonica L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Sophora japonica L. solution was 367.6mn, rutin solution was 365.6mn. The color of Sophora japonica L. solution was affected at pH 2 and pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Sophora japonica L. was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 10$0^{\circ}C$, 60min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment, especially Fe, Sn, Cr. In the case of Sophora japonica L. light fastness was increased by Fe mordanting. Perspiration fastness was better in acidic solution than that in alkaline solution. Fastness to rubbing and dry-cleaning were good in general.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.66-70
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• 2003

Silk fabrics were dyed with persimmon dyeing solution. The persimmon extracts were obtained with boiling water from persimmon fruits and leaves. The changes of K/S values were investigated according to the concentration of solution, the ripeness of persimmons and the method of mordanting. The colours of the fabrics differed according to the kinds of mordants. The mordant, FeSO$_4$, was more effective than other mordants. The physical properties were not changed hardly after the natural dyeing with persimmon extracts.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

A Woolen carpet from the late Joseon Dynasty was unearthed in the process of repairing Seongjeonggak in Changdeokgung. Since relics are rarer than documentary records, the woolen carpet is highly valued as a relics. It is presumed to have been woven in the late 19th or early 20th century because there is a record of repairing Seongjeonggak in 1907. In the carpet, a pattern is made by inserting colored yarn dyed yellow and red onto a reddish-purple ground weave. The selvage of the woolen carpet used cotton thread, and jute is used for the warp and weft of the ground weave. The colored patterns is made of wool in the form of loop pile. Cut piles may appear occasionally when the colored yarn changes, but are almost invisible from the surface because they are pressed tightly with a shuttered weft. Making carpets with jute and wool is thought to be influenced by the Brussels carpets of the mid-18th century. Furthermore, the woolen carpet is torn and the pattern is completely unclear; however, it is understandable that the pattern is partially repeated. Microscopic and Fourier transform-Infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) analyses were performed for the above investigation. To identify the dyes used in relics, we compared them with natural dyed fabric samples based on chromaticity measurements and Ultraviolet/Visible spectrophotometer(UV-Vis) analysis. These analyses revealed that the woolen carpet's dyed green yarn did not use indigo, and reddish-purple ground weave is estimated to have used Caesalpinia sappan.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.