• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.260-269
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to develop higher-value added dyeing materials with the fermentation-dyeing -mordanting system using only the natural ingredients by integrating traditional fermentation techniques with traditional dyeing technique. Nuruk, which is used mainly to ferment traditional foods, was used as a fermenting agent to ferment 5 different types of materials. Acidic burnt alum and alkaline calcium hydroxide were used as natural mordants. The dyeability checked after fermentation showed that both cotton and silk mordanted with Gardenia jasminoides did not show notable changes, and 10 days of fermentation was found to be appropriate. Sophora japonica L. performed better on cotton materials mordanted with slaked lime, and alkaline mordants were found to be more effective than acidic ones. With Rheum coreanum, a fermentation period of more than 24 days ($5^{th}$ fermentation) worked best on cotton material, showing a 5 fold increase in the K/S value after the $5^{th}$ slaked lime fermentation than with no fermentation. Rhus javanica L. was found to increase the color fastness to gentle washing and the fastness to light was found to possess 4 means that natural dyed fabric have the highest level of durability, the grade 1 the lowest level of fastness.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.693-702
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 미생물에서 추출한 천연 색소로 염색한 직물의 색채특성을 고찰하고 염색 직물의 색채감성에 영향을 미치는 색채감각과 물리적 색채특성을 규명하고자 하였다. 미생물 Zooshikellar에서 추출한 prodiginine 색소를 이용하여 적자색으로 염색된 면, 견, 모, 나일론 직물에 대하여 20대 대학생 남녀 40명을 대상으로 의미미분법을 이용한 색채감각 및 감성을 평가하였다. 미생물 prodiginine 색소로 염색한 직물의 색채감성요인은 '유쾌성', '품위성', '독특성', '편안성' 등 4개 요인으로 분류되었는데, 이 중 '유쾌성' 요인이 미생물 색소로 염색한 직물의 대표적인 색채감성요인이라는 것을 알 수 있었다. 미생물 prodiginine 색소로 염색한 직물 색채의 명도 $L^{\ast}$은 '유쾌성' 요인과 유의한 관계를, 채도인 $C^{\ast}$는 색채감성요인 모두와 유의한 관련성을 보였으며, $a^{\ast}$와 $b^{\ast}$ 의 물리적 색채변인 또한 색채감성요인에 유의한 영향을 끼쳤다. 또한 색채감각과 색채감성요인은 부분적으로 유의한 관련성을 보였다. 미생물 prodiginine 색소로 염색한 직물의 색채감성, 색채특성 및 색채감각 중에서 색상 선호도를 예측해 주는 변인은 '유쾌성'과 '독특성'을 포함한 색채감성임을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.508-517
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• 2010

One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.62-68
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• 2017

Coffee sludge and onion shells are known typically as waste resources as well as simultaneously being the raw material for dye having a golden brown color. This research studies the dyeability, functionality, and colors of woolen fabric after being dyed by different dyeing method using coffee sludge and onion shells extract. The woolen fabric was refined and pre-mordanted with tannin. The dyeing process conducted was single-dye, using coffee sludge and onion shells extract, sequential multi-dye, consecutively dyeing with coffee sludge and onion shells, and mixed-dye, blending coffee sludge extract and onion shells extract to dye. The dyeing was measured on the surface color, color fastness, and UV-protection ability. As a result, the expression of various hues of tan using coffee sludge and onion shells extract were shown to be possible. Additionally, single-dye, sequential multi-dye, mixed-dye had generally superiority in color fastness to light, all rating 3 and color fastness to washing, rating 3 or 4, showing relatively stable color fastness to washing. The UV protection ability was shown to be better, especially appearing satisfactory in the UV-B protection, all measured to be over 90%.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.10-18
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• 2005

Silk fabrics mordanted with $Fe^{2+},\;Ni^{2+},\;and\;Cu^{2+}$ were dyed with the aqueous extract of Cassia tora L. seed which was known to include water soluble colorant kaempferol, one of flavonol compounds. Kaempferol can react with free radicals and chelate transition metal ions, which is thought to catalyze processes leading to the appearance of free radicals and have antioxidant activity. In relation to the coordinating and chelating mechanism of the ions with the silk protein and kaempferol, reasonable conclusions should be made on the colorant uptake and the water fastness of the fabric. The amount of the colorant on the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Ni^{2+}>Cu^{2+}$. In case of dyeing through coordinaiton bonds between transition metal ions and silk protein and colorants, it was thought that the ions with the smaller secondary hydration shell, the higher preference to the atoms of the ligand coordinated, and the suitable bonding stability for the substitution of primarily hydrated water molecules for colorants led to the higher colorant uptake. The water fastnsess of the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Cu^{2+}>Ni^{2+}$. It should be reasonable to choose transition metal ions with weak and strong tendency to the ionic and the coordination bond, respectively, to the carboxylate anion of the silk protein. Although further research needs to be done, the conclusions above may be generally applied to the natural dyeing through the coordination bond mechanism between transition metal ions and colorants and substrates.

• 감성과학
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.55-66
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• 2016

본 연구에서는 현대 패션 산업에서 활용하는 색채 기획 프로세스에 기반하여 제주의 대표적인 천연 자원 추출물로 면직물을 염색하고 물리적 색채와 트렌드 색채감성을 분석하여 2016S/S 시즌을 목표로 천연염색 유 아동복 디자인을 위한 감성 색채 테마를 제안하고자 하였다. 제주의 전통 염색 자원인 풋감과 주요 농산물인 감귤, 해양식물인 감태를 각각 분말염료로 제조하고 단일 염색과 복합염색을 병행하여 다양한 색채를 면직물에 구현하고, 2016S/S 유행색을 중심으로 Pantone TPX에 매칭하여 시즌 유행색의 감성 이미지를 고려하여 천연염색 유 아동복 디자인 기획에 활용할 수 있는 감성 색채 테마를 제안하였다. 연구 결과로서 제주 천연자원을 이용한 직물 염색 색채는 Purple Blue에서 Green Yellow에 이르는 색상과 pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, dull의 톤을 나타내었다. 이 중에서 38개의 천연염색 색채가 인터컬러와 한국 CFT에서 제안한 2016S/S 유행색의 일부를 포함한 23종의 Pantone TPX에 매칭되었다. 매칭된 Pantone 색채들을 활용하여 세 가지 컬러웨이를 설정하고 각 컬러웨이의 색채들에 대한 주관적 감성 평가를 실시하여 컬러웨이 그룹별로 차별화되는 색채 감성을 추출하였다. 이 결과를 기반으로 최종적으로 2016S/S 유행색 테마에서 가지는 감성 이미지와 염색에 활용된 제주 천연자원의 고유 특성 및 유 아동복에의 적합성을 고려하여 'Serenity'와 'Juicy', 'Fancy'의 세 가지 색채 감성 테마를 제안하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 유행색의 감성에 기반한 색채 기획 프로세스가 확립되지 않은 천연염색 산업에서 활용할 수 있는 색채기획 가이드 라인을 제공함과 동시에, 제주의 지역 특화 천연염색 색채에서 도출될 수 있는 색채감성 테마를 제안하였다는 데에 의의가 있다.