• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.10-18
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• 2009

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at $50^{\circ}C$. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(${\lamda}$max). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at $10{\sim}12$ g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.748-755
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabric using charcoal as colorants. Particle size of charcoal, dyeability(K/S), SEM morphology of dyed fabrics and color fastness were also investigated. In this study, cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of charcoal was 1.44 ${\mu}m$. According to various conditions, the dyeing effects of 1% chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabrics using charcoal were the highest with 10%(owb) of charcoal at $90^{\circ}C$ for 120minutes and non-treatment of cotton fabrics were the highest with 15%(owb) of charcoal at $90^{\circ}C$ for 150minutes. Overall, K/S value of 1% chitosan treatment of cotton fabrics on the natural dyeing using charcoal was higher than non-treatment of cotton fabrics. It was observed the surfaces of cotton fabrics treated with chitosan were adsorbed with charcoal powders of particle size more than a non-treated chitosan fabric by SEM. The cotton fabrics were dyed with blackish gray color by charcoal gradually according to treating chitosan. The K/S value, that is indicative of dye affinity, became higher as the increase of treated chitosan concentration. The color fastness of charcoal, washing and light fastness was excellent as 4-5 grade.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.247-250
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• 2007

This study was performed to investigate the discrimination of Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Angelica gigantis root has been used as a Korean traditional medicine for the treatment of woman disease. Natural dyes give us many great benefits, including diversified color, but no pollution. These studies were carried out acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was dyed with Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis. The results of experiment showed as follows: In discrimination by dyeing, the colors of Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis were very similar, but that of Angelica gigas was different. There were no differences among colors of materials using non-mordant. But dyeing with iron acetate and copper dichloride were showed dark in Angelica gigas than other angelica species.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.290-298
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• 2016

In this study, the efficacy of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a new natural dye resource was investigated. For this purpose, the colorants from water lily leaves were extracted in methanol, evaporated, and powdered. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FTIR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins and chrolophyll were contained in the extracted colorants. The colorants showed good affinity to cotton fiber showing Y Munsell color. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method. By mordanting, dyed fabrics exhibited various colors such as green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. Colorfastness to washing and rubbing was relatively good showing 4-5 rating. The light fastness was improved 1-2 rating by Fe mordanting. The dyed cotton fabric showed antimicrobial activity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.210-218
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• 2018

The natural dye product market is expanding due to the recent interest in environmentally friendly products. This study examines dyeing using natural Coptidis Rhizoma. Chitosan and Tannin was treated to improve dyeability of Coptidis Rhizoma after finding the proper dyeing condition. In addition, dyeing characteristics were compared according to mordant types along with the mordanting methods for dye fixing and color change. The results indicated that the optimum dyeing condition was to treat the concentration of 5% (o.w.b.) at $80^{\circ}C$ for 90 minutes. By the chitosan and tannin treatments, K/S value of cotton fabrics by 3 times and those of wool fabrics by 2 times increased and color depthing of dyed fabrics was achieved after 2 cycles repetition. To improve dyeability, iron mordanting was most effective; in addition, the K/S Value of pre-mordanting fabrics versus post-mordanting fabrics increased the most. The color of the surface was changed to reddish yellow when Sn, Cu mordanting, and to greenish blue when Fe mordanting. The lightfastness of dyeing fabric with mordanting was weak at 1-2 grades, but the washing fastness was good for 4 grades and the rubbing fastness and sweat fastness were as good as those of the 3-4 grades. As a result, this study could help improve the dyeability of expensive Coptidis Rhizoma.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.208-215
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• 2018

The objective was to investigate the efficacy of Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone colorants as a new functional dye for wool fiber. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for wool fiber. Compared with cotton and silk fibers, wool fiber showed better affinity for the Metasequoia cone colorants. Fe and Cu mordants improved dye uptake, and mordanting did not change the color of dyed fabric with YR Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was as good as grade 4, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3. Antimicrobial activity of the colorants was very high 99.3% of reduction rate toward S. aureus. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorants can be utilized as a new functional natural dye for wool fiber. In addition, considering its high antimicrobial functionality it could be applied to cosmetics and food.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.222-229
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with Rumex crispus L. root extract was investigated. The dyeability of Rumex crispus L. root extract was evaluated with conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, methods of mordanting, color fastness and antibacterial activity, etc. The maximum V-visible spectrum possessed absorption band of Rumex crispus L. extract appeared at 274nm and 336nm. The amount of dyes extracted was increased with extracting concentration, temperature and time. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing concentration and repeat-numbers. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing temperature and time, the exhaustion was saturated in $90^{\circ}C\;and\;80min$, respectively. Surface colors of fabrics dyed with pH 3, 7, 11 extract were RP-R-YR-Y range. The light fastness and washing fastness showed good results in Fe-mordanted. The dry leaning fastness appeared more than 4 grade. Rubbing fastness was better in dry methods han that in wet methods. In the result of antibacterial activity, the decrease rate was 9.9% to Staphylococcus aureus with the dyed fabric of cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.381-388
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.193-199
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• 2013

This study dyed rayon fabric using loess as a natural colorant. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions, various dyeing conditions were examined (temperature, pH, time, and concentration). The color fastness was evaluated using standard washing and rubbing fastness tests. The results were as follows: The loess powder particle size ranged from 0.4 to $1.7{\mu}m$ with a distribution range of 1.1 to $1.4{\mu}m$, representing a fine and uniform manufactured loess powder. The loess component analysis showed a large amount of silicon dioxide and aluminum oxide. TheFT-IR spectra showed that the ammonium group in the rayon fabric produced N-H banding at $1,540cm^{-1}$. The highest K/S value for the rayon fabric was obtained when the pH was 8.0, and this value increased rapidly with a longer dyeing time and when increasing the loess concentration to 30% (w/v). Pre-treatment with a soybean solution produced the highest K/S value for the rayon fabric with a loess concentration of 30% (w/v). The SEM analysis showed a higher amount of loess adhered to the rayon fabric surface when increasing the loess concentration. However, pre-treatment with a cationic agent and soybean solution resulted in a much higher attachment of loess to the fabric surface. Thus, the experimental results showed that using a cationized fabric and pre-treatment with a soybean solution are more effective when dyeing rayon fabric with loess than when using only loess.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.590-597
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• 2013

This study examined the change in the dyeability of natural dyes on cotton fabrics by a PEI (polyethyleneimine) pretreatment instead of mordants. Cotton fabrics were treated with PEI and the changes in the dyeability were shown by measuring the amount of PEI on cotton fabrics. Samples treated with PEI were dyed with two natural polychromatic dyes with a different affinity to cotton fibers: Alizarin Red S and Curcumin. The changes in dyeability by three variables (time, temperature and concentration of dyes) on cotton fabrics were analyzed by the K/S value to define optimum dyeing conditions. Subsequently, the PEI treatment improved the dyeability of cotton fabrics with both dyes of low and high affinity to cotton fibers. Thus, PEI could be a suitable heavy metal mordant replacement.