• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2001

This study was purposed to see how men's hair styles of Japan had changed throughout history and results of the study was as follows. There are such evidences as topknots in its primitive styles and wooden combs that several hair styles were tried already in the primitive Jomon Period. In the Yayoi period, bare topknot style without crowns and Mizura style in which hair drop down both ears were popular. In the period of ancient burial mounds, Mizura style was dominative style and varied its form and shape according to classes and status. In the Aska and Nara era, topknot-in-the-crown style in which hair bound in one as in continental style and put in crown or hood, which style was influenced by the Sui and the Tang periods of China. Since the Heian period, topknot-in-the-Ebosi style, binding style, and Karawa style as well as topknot-in-the-crown style came in sight and Sakayaki style became popular in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. In the Momoyama period, Chasenmage style and Ichomage style were spread widely. In the early Edo era, Wakashumage style and Yaromage style as well as Ichomage style were preferred. In the middle of Edo era in which form and shape of topknot was more distinct symbol of class, status and job than in any other period, Tachmach style under the influence of the Punkin and Honda modes. Sonno style was popular in the late Edo era. There was a drastic disappearance of topknot style by the hair-cutting order during the Meiji Restoration period and civilized hair style of the Jankiri style, a kind of dishevelled hair style without making a topknot was in fashion and continued to the present.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.268-276
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• 2023

Ukiyo-e, a pivotal facet of Japanese art, had a profound impact on Western art during the 19th century, contributing to the emergence of Impressionism and Post-Impressionism. Notably, Katsushika Hokusai's "Great Wave" remains an enduring masterpiece. Ukiyo-e's historical trajectory is intricately linked to the socio-cultural context of its time. Japan's early artistic influences derived from China, evolving through the Nara and Heian periods. Ukiyo-e emerged from the Yamato-e tradition, characterized by its transition from religious themes to secular subjects. Zen Buddhism's influence during the Muromachi Shogunate shifted focus to ink wash painting, which eventually became accessible to the masses. The Azuchi-Momoyama period introduced lavish, colorful works. The Edo Shogunate upheld Kano School for the elite, while folklore painting gained popularity among the commoners, leading to the creation of Ukiyo-e. Ukiyo-e diversified its subjects, including beauty, geisha, sumo, landscapes, and more. The Asakusa district's "Shin-Yoshiwara" added to its vibrant themes. By the late 19th century, Ukiyo-e transcended its roots, encompassing landscapes, wildlife, and beyond. I explore Ukiyo-e's aesthetics and its influence on Impressionism, focusing on "The Three Masters of Ukiyo-e" - Kiyotagawa Komaro, Katsushika Hokusai, and Utagawa Hiroshige.