• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.185-195
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• 2014

This study is to develop marine fashion items for various marine leisure activities based on the identity of Busan. Motifs from the fireworks festival and image colors of Busan are introduced for the items. A prototype design to express uniqueness and characteristics of fireworks was produced with a line combination among design modeling factors and applied to T-shirt item for comfort use in the marine leisure activity and daily life. T-shirt is one of fashion items for a message communication due to a unique modeling which can be used an excellent advertising item for the culturel identity and image of Busan. Designs were produced with the characteristics of fireworks in which circular shapes of a chrysanthemum, ring, and peony designates as motif 1, 2, 3 as well as linear shape of Niagara, fan shape, and tiger-tail as motif 4, 5, and 6. These designs were located on the front, central chest, and left chest in the T-shirts then analyzed by major students in the course of master and doctor of clothing and textiles with statistical methods. A design with new coloring preferred than the design of a symbolic construction, and circular design on the front and linear design on the left chest were preferred in the results. Prototypes were produced with peony and tiger-tail design which show a high corelation between circular and linear shape, and coloring as well as high purchasing needs. This study results will expect to use for the development of advertising items for the various events of Busan based on the textile design and fashion items with the identity of Busan.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.908-922
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.185-205
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• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.126-144
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• 2015

The object of this study is to develop textile designs and fashion products based on the cultural resource of Jeju Bangsatop, which means a stone tower preventing misfortune and driving out evil spirits. The field surveys of 32 Bangsatops located at 17 villages in Jeju were conducted. As a result, unlike stone towers located in other regions, Jeju Bangsatops made with basalt. In addition, wood and stone birds, Dolhareungbang, and other sculptures are built on the tops. Jeju Bangsatops were classified into four types based on the body form of the tops: Conical, truncated conical, trapezoid, and irregular shaped Bangsatops. Jeju Bangsatops located in a area or a village are symmetrically arranged in direction of south and north, left and right, east and west, or face to face. The conical, truncated conical, and irregular shaped Jeju Bangsatops which are designated as folk cultural properties or which have the unique sculptures of stone birds and the statues of Dolhareungbang built on the tops were selected as motifs for textile pattern design. The 4 basic patterns of Jeju Bangstops were designed. The six creative textile designs were developed by the various repeat arrangements of the basic patterns and were printed on oxford cotton fabrics by digital textile printing (DTP) method. The sixteen products of wallets, bags, hats and shoes were actually made with the DTP fabrics, the DTP fabrics which were naturally dyed in gray and blue colors, or the DTP fabrics which were redesigned with textile crayon. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Bangsatop could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2017

Today, modern people are exposed to various environmental pollutants such as harmful substances and stress, which can compromise health. Therefore, a healing culture that seeks to enjoy human life based on the healing of body and mind is attracting great attention. The purpose of this study is to develop environmentally friendly natural dyeing considering a healing concept with four elements: color, dye, material, and pattern. The research methods and scope are based on a theoretical review of healing and research on the literature of bedding related to natural dyes, national and international books, the Internet, etc., and naturally dyed bedding. This paper presents actual production research. The results of this study are as follows. First, the elements of color, dyeing, material and pattern were developed through the process of a bedding design development model that applies a healing concept and can be commercialized as a healing bedding product. Second, a healing color proposal was expressed in an intermediate color system of pink, ocher, lavender, and indigo colors for emotional stability, warmth, calmness, comfort and softness. Third, eco-friendly bedding using natural dyes with medicinal efficacy can obtain the healing effect of the natural treatment method, which can aid healthy sleep. Fourth, the pattern used in the bedclothes was a motif of Sarasa embroidery, flower embroidery, ribbon embroidery, and wave quilting motifs to provide psychological stability as a healing concept in the sleeping environment. The natural healing bedding with the healing concept proposed in this study has natural treatment that is beneficial to human health and the development of bedding with natural dyes will lead to an increase of demand for the sleeping environment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.946-955
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.176-188
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• 2013

This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.53-68
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• 2015

The Beijing Opera is one of the leading representatives of Chinese culture, which includes literature, music, dance, martial arts, and a type of performance that stems from the Chinese cultural history that is still relevant today. The purpose of this study is to develop fashion-cultural products from the Lian Pu of the Beijing Opera, a Chinese cultural tradition that receives abundant positive feedback from around the world, showing its value in both academic and practical fields. This study was carried out first as a theoretical study of the literature, definition and types of facial make up used in the Opera, as a way of examining the formative aspect. Secondly, an analysis was conducted on the main characters, 'Guan Yu' and 'Zhang Fei' of "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms", 'Li Kiu' and 'Lu Zhishen' of "All Men are Brothers" and 'Monkey King' of "Journey to West", employing the collection belonging to 'Yongqi Zhao' who is an expert on the Chinese Beijing Opera. Thirdly, two concepts were categorized, based on the analytic results of the abovementioned characters, each of which were then further categorized into three sub concepts. In regard to cultural development designs, the results of an analysis on the facial make-up color, form, and texture of the four main characters were utilized to construct the themes, "Modern Chic" and "Traditional Splendor". The simplest form that has been represented in the four figures has been applied to "Modern Chic" to show a modern image in which black, white and light blue has been used alongside the vivid red, which is a Chinese favorite, to highlight the characters. In "Traditional Splendor", which is focused on the stage art of the Opera, we see more artistic traditions and colors, to further appeal to our emotions. Traditional motifs have been applied using traditional Chinese arts, in order to develop strong and brilliant colors. The two styles of cultural products were developed in the form of women's scarves and men's ties; a total of 24 designs were expressed, using Illustrator CS6. In the final step, 4 scarves and 6 ties were produced as a sample, using high quality silk. The development of these cultural fashion products will bring an opportunity to show how Chinese traditional culture can be widely utilized in commercial market design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.149-170
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to link the Yi tribe's traditional patterns to bag design. Yi tribe is a minor ethic group in China, whose traditional pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and each one has peculiar elegance. Traditional patterns are also indicative of spiritual dept or symbolic stories, rather than being indicative of simple formative beauty. Thus, reorganizing these patterns and applying them artistically to design- in terms of resource utilization- would be significant. Out of all of the Yi tribe's traditional patterns, the cherry blossom_(马樱花), water wave_(水波), sky father and earth mother_(天父地母), pomegranate blossom, triangle, sheep' horn, wisteria vine_(藤条), square and diaper_(四角菱形) and the zigzag_(曲折) patterns were chosen for use during the development of a bag design. This study is based upon document study, including research papers and internet web sites, the point of which was to investigate the form of the traditional patterns, and the creative design process. The design procedure includes these sub-processes: selection, arrangement and color-scheme. In the selection process, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The pattern was freely arranged to reflect various emotions. In terms of the color-scheme of the patterns, the colors used by Henri Matisse(1869-1954) in his work were selected and adapted when dyeing the patterns. Subsequently, the final design resulting from these design development processes was applied to the actual production of the bag by using canvas fabric and leather, after which the bag image was proposed using computer simulation. In conclusion, six bag designs were created using traditional patterns from the Yi tribe. Through the processes explained above, this study confirmed that traditional patterns could be widely applied as design motifs and that more sophisticated, modern, and creative designs could be developed based on traditional patterns.