• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.380-390
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• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.707-728
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• 2024

This study aimed to assess the colorizing properties of bacterial cellulose (BC) using plant-based dyes, namely spinach, beet, and banana peel, and determine the dyeing conditions of each dye based on color strength (K/S) values. Tannic acid and walnut shell powder were utilized as bio-mordants, and their effects on the dyeability of BC were compared to metallic mordants. Additionally, the type of mordant and the mordanting method were assessed according to their rubbing fastness and dry-cleaning fastness. The K/S values of the colorized and mordanted BCs were also compared to examine their mordanting conditions. Finally, the mordanting conditions for spinach, beet, and banana peel dyeing were selected as post-mordanting with tannic acid, meta-mordanting with tannic acid, and post-mordanting with walnut shell powder, respectively. Based on the results, the selected mordanting conditions improved both rubbing fastness and dry-cleaning fastness of BCs to grade 5, and the light fastness achieved grade 4-5. The tensile strength and flexibility of the dyed BCs were also enhanced and comparable to that of untreated cowhide leather.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.299-307
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• 2016

In order to clarify the availability of heat treatment for catechu dyeing, effect of color developing by heating process on cotton fabrics dyed with catechu extract was investigated. Dyed fabrics were heated various time(min) at $150^{\circ}C$. The cases of non-mordanting and mordanting were compared, and examined the effect of sodium acetate as an agent to promote the color developing to fabrics. Experiments with after-mordanting method showed that various colors can be obtained using catechu. K/S values of dyed fabrics with Al, Cu, Fe mordant were higher than the case of no mordant. The fabric by Cu mordanting showed 3 times to the case of no mordant. Fabrics dyed with catechu by mordanting lowered $L^*$ value while there was little change in $a^*$, $b^*$ value as the heating process progressed. Therefore, K/S values were increased due to heating process. The effects of adding sodium acetate in dyeing bath on dyed fabrics were shown higher K/S values, and the $L^*$ values were lower than those without sodium acetate according to heating time increase. The result show sodium acetate had a promoting effect on the color developing to the fabrics by heating process, it was very effective.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.290-298
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• 2016

In this study, the efficacy of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a new natural dye resource was investigated. For this purpose, the colorants from water lily leaves were extracted in methanol, evaporated, and powdered. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FTIR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins and chrolophyll were contained in the extracted colorants. The colorants showed good affinity to cotton fiber showing Y Munsell color. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method. By mordanting, dyed fabrics exhibited various colors such as green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. Colorfastness to washing and rubbing was relatively good showing 4-5 rating. The light fastness was improved 1-2 rating by Fe mordanting. The dyed cotton fabric showed antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.154-160
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• 2005

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Puerariae Radix was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Puerariae Radix were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Puerariae Radix solution was at 290nm and 301nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Puerariae Radix was during 1 hour in loot. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 80$\~$ 100$^{circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Puerariae Radix appeared yellow-brown. US value of dyeing fabrics was increased by Fe, and Cu mordant treatment. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Puerariae Radix light fastness of appeared more than 2-5 grades by mordant treatment. Perspiration fastness of appered more than 4 grades by Al, Sn, Cr mordant treatment. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appered more than 4-5 grades. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.16-22
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• 2004

This study was carried out to investigate K/S values, surface color, the fastness to washing, bacteria reduction rate of the silk and cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract under the various dyeing conditions. The optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing pH and repetition of the silk fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract were $l00^{\circ}C, 30min., pH 5, five times repetition respectively, but in the cotton fabrics, it were $60^{\circ}C . 30min., pH 7, one times repetition. It were colored orangish Yellow in the silk fabrics and colored bright yellow in the cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract. Surface color(munsell value) was not changed by the mordanting agents but those of the silk showed high tone when mordanting with stannous chloride, and it was decolored and darked when mordanting with ferric sulfate. The fastness to washing in the silk fabrics dyed with mordanting agents improved in 4～5 grade, but the cotton fabrics were 3～4 grade, so washing fastness of the silk and cotton fabrics were significantly improved when washing with the neutral detergent. The bacteria reduction rate of the silk fabrics increased drastically by dyeing of Rhus verniciflua extract.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.85-92
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• 2012

This was a study examining the fatliquoring of natural dyed cow skin with Coptis chinensis Franch. The K/S according to optimal dyeing condition, mordants and mordanting method was measured. And the surface, sections, tensile strength, elongation, stiffness and colorfastness according to post-dyeing fatliquoring were observed. The optimal conditions include 300%(o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 30 minites. Fe-simmordanting showed the highest dyeability. Coptis chinensis Franch showed a yellow color regardless of mordants and mordanting methods. Tensile strength and elongation increased in the case of simmordanting compared with untreated and the process of fatliquoring further increased. The softness significantly increased when fatliquored. Shrinkage was slightly reduced when dyed, but showed almost no change with fatliquoring. Lastly, color fastness increased overall with mordanting and partly increased with fatliquoring. The rubbing and light fastness were excellent Cu- mordanting, and drycleaning fastness also improved with Cr-mordanting.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.31-45
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• 2022

After manufacturing the natural dyed actual size Hanji using 11 kinds of plant natural dyeing materials and 2 kinds of animal natural dyeing materials, the color characteristics and color change and color fastness after post-mordanting were compared and discussed. The hues of 13 types of natural dyed Hanji were black, PB, and RP, each with 1 type, YP with 3 types, and Y with 7 types. Among the natural dyeing materials, Chinese ink, indigo and Lac showed high color yield and color difference, and violet-root cromwell and gardenia seeds showed low color yield. The color fastness of Hanji dyed with turpentine diluted Ottchil, Pagoda tree seeds, Chinese ink and indigo was excellent, while that of gardenia seeds and violet-root cromwell were very poor. After post-mordanting of natural dyed Hanji with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, the hue changes were show up the Alnus firma, clove, lac and cochineal. In addition, the color difference was very diverse and was overall the most biggest due to Fe mordant. After 72 hr. of UV irradiation on post-mordanting natural dyed Hanji, hue change was observed in 3 types and color fastness was improved in 8 types by post-mordanting. The Hue and color fastness are significantly different depending on the type of natural dying materials and post-mordants. Therefore, when dyeing Hanji with natural dyes, it is necessary to dye with sufficient knowledges and informations about the desired color and fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2003

Research to dyeing properties of Ulmi cortex extract, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed and mordanted. Dyes were extracted from distilled water according to different pH values. The dyeability of Ulmi cortex extract were evaluated by conditions of dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing pH, mordanting temperature, mordanting time, mordanting concentration and color fastness, etc. IR spectrum possessed absorption band of -OH at $3400cm^{-1},\;C-H\;at\; 2940cm^{ -1},\;aromatic\;C=C\;at\;1628cm^{-1},\;1518cm^{-1},\;C-O\;at\; 1107cm^{ -1},\;1043cm^{-1}$. And the $\labmda$max of extract appeared at 220nm and 280nm, so the substance of Ulmi cortex extract were catechin and tannin. Surface color of dyed fabrics were reddish yellow~yellow~greenish yellow. From the color fastness test, the fabrics dyed with PH 7 extract were excellent in irradiation and washing. Mordanting improved the color fastness and K/S value of dyed fabrics.