• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.114-124
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• 2014

This research was carried out to find the mordant effects by Tara and Myrobalan as natural tannins on the cow leather dyed with Lac powder. The cow leathers were treated with Tara, Myrobalan, Al, Cu, and Fe mordants by changing treatment orders. It was examined for K/S value, surface color changes, and color difference. The K/S value generally has higher Myrobalan than Tara, and pre-mordant than post-mordanted condition. Cu is the strongest among the three mordants. As a results of the treatment order, the K/S value is higer in pre-tannin-mordant agent than in pre-mordant agent-tannin. In the post mordant, K/S value is higher in mordant agent-tannin than in tannin-mordant agent. The color difference and color factors such as H, V and C were various according to the mordant agents, treatment orders and mordant methods; and surface colors of dyed cow leathers were R and RP. It was difficult to find some significant means of mordant orders.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.283-288
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• 2003

Large quantity of metal mordant in natural dyeing has been used. For environmental reason, there is a need to reduce the amount of metal mordant and suggest the optimum amount of metal mordant in dyeing process. In this study, the relationship between mordant concentration and dyeing property was investigated. Various metal mordant concentrations of AI, Cu, Fe, Sn, were studied (from 1 to 5%). After treatment of mordant on cotton fabric, the concentration of metal ion in used mordant solution was quantified. There was no significant difference of the tone of color in mordant concentration from 1% to 5%, Therefore, there is no need to increase mordant concentration over 1%. chitosan treated cotton fabric showed a significant increase in dyeing affinity compared to untreated cotton fabric (the value of ${\Delta}E$ was 20). chitosan increased dye affinity significantly in the presence of mordant. It can be suggested that chitosan itself can replace metal mordants in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.101-107
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• 2005

In this article, mordant absorption rate by the Change of temperature and fabric, discharge level by water washing, mordant density and method in mordant dye are going to be handled. Besides, how treatment method will have an effect on absorption rate and color, is also going to be covered. An atom extinction photometer was used to measure the amount of mordant absorbed in fabric at each temperature and mordant type. It turned out that absorption rate differs according to the type of mordant and sample or temperature. Also it turned out that the mordant input amount has little influence on absorption rate, that is to say, if though you use more mordants, just tiny amount of mordant is going to be absorbed in cloth. It is true that the higher temperature goes up, the better mordant absorption gets. It is found that the type of mordant and sample, treatment period affects the discharge rate. Normally $15{\~}98\%$ mordant comes off the fabric by water washing, to be specific, $17{\~}47\%$ Iron by water washing and it has better performance on cotton and nylon than silk, $1\%{\~}52\%$ Aluminum by water washing and better absorption on silk, $36{\~}89\%$ Chrome by water washing and better absorption on silk, $50{\~}89\%$ copper by water washing and better absorption on silk, poor on cotton. The examination of the K/S values and colors between before and after soaping has been conducted under the circumstance that the test fabrics had been treated at $80^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes with $0.2\%$ soaping solution. In case of pre-mordanted fabrics, the K/S value nosedived after soaping, meanwhile densely mordanted fabric's K/S value soared but after soaping, it dropped sharply. It turned out that soaping treatment deteriorates absorption much more than water washing. It's considered that $0.1 \%$ (W/V) of mordant density is appropriate.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.88-95
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• 2016

This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ${\geq}$non mordant.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.608-615
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.30-37
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• 1999

The extracts drawn out from Artemisia princeps by water was concentrated. Using this concentrate the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed, and they were measured with the K/S value, surface color and mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the silk fabric was much higher than that of the cotton fabric. And the color yield of the dyed silk fabric was most efficient for the premordanting method. 2. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. For the Cr-mordant among various mordants, the chroma produced clear and the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. 3. On the other hand the amount of absorbed mordant in the silk fabric was larger than that of the cotton fabric. And the Cu-mordant was most efficient. 4. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Cr-mordant improved best in all of the dry cleaning, wet cleaning and perspiration fastness. Iron and abrasion fastness showed over 4-5 grade regardless of any mordant. And light fastness was best in Cu-mordant. 5. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity in both of mordant treat silk and cotton fabrics.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.100-106
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• 2012

This research was carried out to find the mordant effect of Chestnut's inner skin on the cow leather dyed by Turmeric powder. The best proper mordanting conditions were examined by changing mordant method, concentration, temperature, bath ratio, time, and repetition. Also dyeability and surface color changes were evaluated by various mordanting methods. The optimum mordanting conditions of chestnut's inner skin extract on the cow leather were pre mordant, 80%, $50^{\circ}C$, 50:1, 40minutes, 4 repetition. The K/S values as a mordant were higher in pre mordant than post mordanting condition. Although the ${\Delta}E$ was slightly higher in post mordant than pre mordant, it was too small to find any means. The surface colors of all dyed cow leathers were yellow. Among light, dry cleaning, and abrasion fastnesses, only light fastness was increased one degree, others were same degrees.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.181-191
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• 2011

This study examines the effects of Evening primrose on colors, color fastness, and the antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics. The results are as follows. The dyeing conditions of Evening primrose on cotton and mercerized cotton were optimized at $50^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes, and 200% (o.w.f.). In addition, Evening primrose dyeing on silk was determined at $90^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and 200% (o.w.f.). The pre-mordant concentration of chemicals of cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized at 1% (o.w.f.). The post-mordant concentration on mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was determined at 1% (o.w.f.) and 3% (o.w.f.), respectively. The mordant methods (such as pre-mordant and post-mordant) were slightly affected on the hue of dye-fabrics. Wet cleaning fastness of cotton was improved by post-mordant; otherwise, the wet cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was improved by a pre-mordant. The dry cleaning fastness of cotton and silk was excellent regardless of mordant methods. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton was improved by a post-mordant compared to a pre-mordant. The antimicrobial activity of Evening primrose-dyed fabrics was shown at 99.9%. The excellent antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics remained after the mordant as well as wet and dry cleaning.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.